Motorcycle shops.

[azazelakira]

Why good motorcycle shops are hard to find?
I took my VS1400 to a shop because I was a truck driver and I had limited time to work on it, I told them to please put all the wiring back to factory since I had moved it around and was all out of place, also to bleed the brakes and clutch and to change the handlebars. Half of the headlight was off because of me not having time to put the wiring back to normal.

They took 4 months to call me back that the bike was ready and that it was working 100%.
So I go and pick it up, I can hear right out the back that the revs are too high, and ask if they check the RPMs, he said it was ok because of the oil pressure, oook. I start riding home and notice that the clutch has 1/2 inch "play" (when start releasing the lever start engaging right away and I have no forgiveness) so is a little hard to start rolling.
I get home and get the RPMs down and kinda is ok, but I need to sync the carbs.
Why they didn't told me the carbs needed work? How somebody thinks that that clutch is good?
Then I take the seat off to check the wiring, and is almost the same mess, just a liitle better and they keep the cover plastuc that is under the seat. I am going to ask for it next week tho.

But are all shops the same?
The new and old mechanics/technicians are just tired of working with customer service on mind? Or I am asking for too much?

[hillsy v2]

Most shops aren't interested in working on old bikes. And also there's really way too much labour involved in what you are asking them to do.

You'd be best off finding someone who does this sort of work from home or is a one man shop who specialises in working on older bikes.

[navigator]

Yup most dealers up this way won't touch anything over 10 years old. They just work on FI systems, no carbs.
They can't diagnose shit, just swap in new parts until the problem goes away.
Like hillsy says, find an old work at home mechanic, independent shop, or wrench it yourself.
It's a throwaway world now.

[azazelakira]

This is the oldest independent shop in town, and they charge me $1200 for all the labor and still keep at least that 1 cover under the seat. I think I am going to have to learn how to have patience again so I can fix it myself.

[hillsy v2]

I think I am going to have to learn how to have patience again so I can fix it myself.

That's kinda how it is with old bikes. The internet / forums are there for most bikes if you have any problems.

[azazelakira]

That's kinda how it is with old bikes. The internet / forums are there for most bikes if you have any problems.

So I have to make a new topic to guys to help me out with the wiring and the clutch or go topic by topic looking for my specific issues?

[navigator]

Do a search, but feel free to post specific questions.

[hillsy v2]

That's kinda how it is with old bikes. The internet / forums are there for most bikes if you have any problems.

So I have to make a new topic to guys to help me out with the wiring and the clutch or go topic by topic looking for my specific issues?

What nav says - do a search. You can search by specific keywords in the thread titles or in the actual posts.

To be honest there's not that many threads in the tech folders on this forum compared to others of current model bikes - so you could probably scroll through the entire lot in an hour or so. Grab a beer and lurk

[azazelakira]

To be honest there's not that many threads in the tech folders on this forum compared to others of current model bikes - so you could probably scroll through the entire lot in an hour or so. Grab a beer and lurk

Well I guess I will do that now that I have time, together with start the mod on the swing arm, I may need a lot of help on the wiring harness back to factory but if I want to keep this bike that has to be done.
Thanks guys.

[Designer]

To be honest there's not that many threads in the tech folders on this forum compared to others of current model bikes - so you could probably scroll through the entire lot in an hour or so. Grab a beer and lurk

Well I guess I will do that now that I have time, together with start the mod on the swing arm, I may need a lot of help on the wiring harness back to factory but if I want to keep this bike that has to be done.
Thanks guys.

You are welcome.

We look forward to your projects and will Be There For You as you work on them.

[azazelakira]

Before I start a new thread, I looked for the clutch engagement, and I found several answers but not the one I am looking at.

My clutch start engaging at 1/4" of release, and is very weak.
Do change the springs will solve anything? Or have a lever that is more angle foward thus giving me more play will solve the issue?

I have no air on the line, the shop used a machine to bleed the system.

[Herb]

Before I start a new thread, I looked for the clutch engagement, and I found several answers but not the one I am looking at.

My clutch start engaging at 1/4" of release, and is very weak.
Do change the springs will solve anything? Or have a lever that is more angle foward thus giving me more play will solve the issue?

I have no air on the line, the shop used a machine to bleed the system.

Do you have any slack in the pivot of the lever?

On my 87 1400 I had an issue with the clutch not wanting to work correctly. Acted almost like yours. come to find out the pivot point on the lever was worn out. I replaced the lever and the problem went away.

BTW, I fought that issue for months and was really ticked when I figured it out, happy, but still ticked that it took me so long.

[hillsy v2]

Before I start a new thread, I looked for the clutch engagement, and I found several answers but not the one I am looking at.

My clutch start engaging at 1/4" of release, and is very weak.
Do change the springs will solve anything? Or have a lever that is more angle foward thus giving me more play will solve the issue?

I have no air on the line, the shop used a machine to bleed the system.

If you are saying the clutch starts to engage when the lever is only 1/4 inch from the bars then that sounds like weak MC or slave operation that anything else.

Or check what Herb says first up.

[azazelakira]

If you are saying the clutch starts to engage when the lever is only 1/4 inch from the bars then that sounds like weak MC or slave operation that anything else.

Or check what Herb says first up.

I checked the slack on the lever and pivot, no slack, I changed the gaskets on the MC and the Slave Cylinder. And yes it kinda is a weak operation on one part of the system.

So how do I quote 2 people in the same answer? ad I think Wednesday I will start working on the bike, I have to put my life in order before hand, getting all the stuff out off the truck is 1 thing, but checking every little thing you had in there and getting rid of doubles is going to take sometime.

Also I have some parts and accessories of this bike I am going to have to sell.

[Designer]

There is a possibility that the interior Bore of the Master Cylinder is scored and allowing leakage past the Pressure Seal of the Piston.

After all the Bore is only Aluminum,... and to prevent such a return problem in the future, I had mine sleeved with Stainless-steel.

[azazelakira]

There is a possibility that the interior Bore of the Master Cylinder is scored and allowing leakage past the Pressure Seal of the Piston.

After all the Bore is only Aluminum,... and to prevent such a return problem in the future, I had mine sleeved with Stainless-steel.

How do I sleeve mine?
what I ask the shop to do?

[hillsy v2]

If the bore is scored it would be far cheaper and easier just to get another off eBay. Paying for a shop to sleeve an MC is pretty much cost prohibitive / pointless.

More than likely it's the seal though - I know you said you replaced them but they are easy to damage putting them in....or easy to put in backwards.

[Lechy]

#1 Did you put the piston seal the right way, wider side facing downstream.
#2 Air tends to get trapped at the master banjo bolt, wrap a rag loosely around the bolt, back it off 1/2 turn, slowly squeeze the lever, hold and re-tighten the bolt.
#3 turn the bars to get the master horizontal, cover the paintwork, remove the master cover, strip some copper wire and clean out the 2 small holes in the reservoir gently operate the lever 1/2 inch or so. Slowly squeeze the lever and slowly release it, watch for fluid movement and small bubbles.
FLUID EATS PAINT.

[Designer]

There is a possibility that the interior Bore of the Master Cylinder is scored and allowing leakage past the Pressure Seal of the Piston.
After all the Bore is only Aluminum,... and to prevent such a return problem in the future, I had mine sleeved with Stainless-steel.

How do I sleeve mine? what I ask the shop to do?

I would first see if the Piston Bore is indeed scored. Your symptoms are similar to mine before I discovered mine was scored but not a confirmation of scoring..

Air in the system can be it also. Here's a method to get all the Air out that might be trapped in the Banjo Fitting.

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=4

[azazelakira]

Ok, then I will first rebleed the system, and then if nothing changes will check the MC for scoring.
Will let you guys know by Friday.
Thank you