Intruders-Alert

So here she is, the new ride.

I am 27 and have wanted a bike for as long as I can remember. This year I finally said screw it, got my M1 and brought this one home with me. I got a great deal on it, being that it isn't running, but I have always been mechanically inclined so I figured it would be a fun project to get her going again.

The previous owner started turning it into a bobber. Removed the rear seat and cut back the rear fender, and he replaced the rear suspension with solid struts. All in love the way it feels and think it will be a pretty neat ride whenever I get her wrapped up.

The bike also had the clutch line removed and the water pump open, so when I first got it home I reinstalled those, did an oil change and refilled with coolant.

Now I am into the electrical. The right hand mounted start switch was all buggered up inside so I sourced out a new one and installed that last week. As of right now when I turn the key the dash lights up but pushing the start button nothing happens. So I started going through the wiring and noticed a 4-pin connector that wasn't connected to anything, and going through the wiring diagram I realized it is supposed to be connected to the fuel pump relay, which is no longer there. I just ordered a new one last night and will install when that arrives.

So the question for today is, would it make sense that the asbsence of the relay would not allow the bike to turn over? There are also 1 or 2 other single wires that aren't connected that I don't know what they do (black and white striped wire from rear break switch?) and all the rear lights are disconnected.

Anyways, that's all for now. I will post more pics and questions as they arise!

I have never be on the 750 but I assume they have the clutch safety switch on them. If so, and if it is not bypassed, you have to squeeze the clutch in and hold when starting it. Not to try and sound like a smart ass but this is something that several people that have ridden my bike have missed. As for if the fuel pump relay has anything to do with it I am not sure but even when my fuel pump failed the engine would still turn over.

Related story.
I once took my bike in for new tires and that night the mechanic calls me and says it won't start and he thinks I have electrical problems. I ask about holding the clutch and he goes on a rant about how he has been working on motorcycles for 21 years and he knows how to start a motorcycle. He ends up putting it on a charger overnight. The next day I went to pick it up he says it still won't start and he needs to dig into it. I said hold on and tried to start it and it fired right up. I told him he didn't know how to start a motorcycle. Well I never went back to that place.

By-pass the clutch switch, pull the 2 leads under the master and join them together. Check that the emergency cut out switch is in the run position, you should then have 12 volts on the orange cable to the coils when the ignition is on. If not, remove and clean the internals of the cut out switch.

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Thanks for the help guys, and no I am not offended. Being a newbie I'll take all the help I can get. That being said, I was holding the clutch when I attempted to start it.
And Letchy, I will try that out tonight and let you know how I make out. Thanks again

Oops, my bad. Orange/white wire. If your fuel pump only has 2 wires you can also jump from the O/W wire to the hot side of the pump so that it pumps as soon as the ignition is turned on, it will shut down from the kill switch in an emergency.

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Would this essentially be bypassing the relay all together?

Yes it would, both my Intruders are wired this way. The relay is a belt and braces safety feature to comply with Federal regulations.

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Awesome, that's good to know. I'll give it a shot tonight.

Update:

I have bypassed the neutral safety and jumped the fuel pump. Now when I turn on the kill switch I can hear the pump working. I have 12v on the orange/white going to the coils.

The bike still doesn't start or even try to turn over when I hit the ignition. If I jump the starter solenoid it turns over and the fuel pump runs.

Any ideas?

After doing some more reading I have another idea. After the previous owners work, the start solenoid is not fixed to the bike but floating. Will this cause my "no turnover from the ignition" problem?

Kdp89 wrote:After doing some more reading I have another idea. After the previous owners work, the start solenoid is not fixed to the bike but floating. Will this cause my "no turnover from the ignition" problem?

Not if it is properly hooked up. There are 2 small wires hooked up to it, one is black/white, which is a ground, the other is a power from the start switch. You should be able to read a ground on the one and power input when pressing the start switch on the other. If both those are there, the solenoid is bad.

At the top of the S50/VS800 forum there is a manual that covers from the VS700 up. You can download it and it will give you good information. I am sure there is a wiring diagram included that will help with T-shooting the wiring.

If you get lost, please don't hesitate to ask, but there can be quite a time delay between question and answer.

If it's the original starter solenoid it needs bolting down securely to the rear fender for it to work. I had that same problem but the solenoid had become loose in the clamp and the body was not making a good earth. I soon replaced it with a cheapo $5 unit from a local auto store, never had another problem. Easy enough to check with a couple of jumper leads to the battery, if it clicks it's good, if not it's toasted. Personally I would replace it, bump starting these bikes is not a thing I would like to be doing.
Is your battery in good condition? A weak or under charged batt will cause you all sorts of problems with these old girls as will bad leads and dirty contacts.
Welcome to the frustrating world of Intruders.
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The battery is brand new and I have been keeping it on a tender when not playing with it. I have a feeling I have a gremlin in my wiring somewhere. Gonna have to open it all up and trace through all the wiring.

Manual and diagrams here:
http://intruders-alert.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3346

Be warned, under the seat is like a bowl of spaghetti, I got totally pissed off with trying to follow the shyte that I cut the whole lot out and re-wired getting rid of all the inter-locks and cut outs simplifying things a great deal, I did however retain the neutral, low oil pressure and water temp warning lights.

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Update for you.
I traced my way through some wiring and after taking apart switches etc I realized that the solenoid is getting 12v when I press the ignition switch, but it isn't closing and firing the starter. So I tried putting 12v directly to the solenoid and nothing. I just ordered a new solenoid.

I'll still have some more questions moving forward but I thought you might appreciate an update.

Kdp89 wrote:Update for you.
I traced my way through some wiring and after taking apart switches etc I realized that the solenoid is getting 12v when I press the ignition switch, but it isn't closing and firing the starter. So I tried putting 12v directly to the solenoid and nothing. I just ordered a new solenoid.

I'll still have some more questions moving forward but I thought you might appreciate an update.

Always appreciated when someone lets us know about how things are working out.

One more quick question while I wait on parts to arrive. I have 4 wires coming off the main harness under the tank. They appear to be orange/blue, black/white, black/green and a straight black which splices into a different orange/green in the harness. Any ideas?

Orange/blue is from the fuse box to the light switch, black/green is from the water temp sensor, black/white is the common earthing wire, black is from the turn signal.
You really should download the manual and study the wiring diagram.
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I have the wiring diagram and the clymer manual with the diagram. I am not so confused about what the wires are supposed to be as I am where to hook them up again.

Well, that would depend on how much butchery the previous owner did. You will need to find out what works and what doesn't work and go from there.

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