Horrible metallic sound

[alebal]

hi guys,

This horrible clanking is a Camshaft Cam Chain right?


This(https://www.ebay.com/itm/265737334240?h ... R8TrsZXqYA).
(I don't think there are problems with the valves or anything else, because the bike runs well, has good power, doesn't smoke...)

I guess you have to take the engine out of the frame to change it, which I still have to do to replace the head gaskets (which a few years ago were replaced with silicone).

I'd like confirmation, and advice, such as whether it's worth changing something else since I have to disassemble the engine.

For example from time to time I find myself with little oil in the clutch bowl, and the bike that doesn't stop anymore, something that is worth looking at with the engine removed or can it be done later?

[hillsy v2]

Sounds more like loose valve tappets than camchain noise. Or an exhaust leak where the headers bolt on to the head. Possibly both.

Pretty sure the 700 tappets were screw and locknut adjustment - which means you should be able to adjust without removing the engine from the frame.

Have you checked the clearances?

[navigator]

As hillsy says, it may be a valve adjustment issue.
Before you remove the engine, check the exhaust header:
Unbolt the header collar from the head, swing the pipe away from the head and examine inside the engine end of the pipe.
The pipe is double walled with the inner pipe welded to the outer.
I had that weld break on a VS800, the inner was rattling around making a loud clacking noise.

[hillsy v2]

You shouldn't need to remove the engine to check / adjust the valve clearances: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/11426 ... =19#manual

[Lechy]

You can adjust the tappets without removing the engine but the first time is a real bitch due to lack of room. The front head rear cover may not want to come out, just rotate the engine until it does.
Here is a write up I posted ages ago:


Before you adjust the valves the engine must be dead cold. In other words, the engine must have been left to cool overnight. The cold clearance is .003 .005 of an inch on all valves. I ended up setting them at .004 all around. However, if you have a bike that tends to overheat, you can set the exhaust to .005 You can also do the opposite, set your intake valves to .005 for better breathing.

Procedure:

If you have a stand or lift, raise the bike; if not, place a 2X4 block of wood under the side stand to prop it up, but make absolutely sure it is firm to avoid having it fall down.

Remove seats and gas tank.

Remove the front cylinder right hand chrome head cover and take the spark plug out (or just loosen). Remove the rear cylinder left hand chrome head cover and also take the spark plug out (this makes it easier to turn the engine over by hand ). You will be working on the front cylinder valves from the right side of the bike and working on the rear cylinder valves from the left side of the bike.

On the top front and top rear of each cylinder head are the valve covers (four in total). Remove them ([six] 8 mm & [two]10 mm nuts). Make sure you note exactly where and how each cover is placed since they have a thick and thin side. It's a cumbersome process and you will have to loosen the wiring straps (and other stuff) and move around the wiring harness (and other stuff) that runs along the top of the frame to get better access. If your fingers are not so nimble you might have to take out the front carb. The valve covers have rubber O-rings which must be cleaned before reinstall (if the O-rings are flattened or in bad condition, buy new ones). Also, clean the valve covers well and make sure you place the O-ring back in correctly, since it fits in a certain manner. Coat the O-rings with a little oil before reinstall. Sometimes the front cylinder rear valve cover is difficult to remove due to the lack of space. If this happens just turn the engine CCW to get the valves in the open position and the cover will then slide out.

On the left engine case cover is a large slotted plug, remove; be very careful since the plug is chrome and sometimes very tight, therefore you can mess it up real easy. This plug has a rubber O-ring which you must cleaned (replace if damaged); smear a little oil before reinstalling. Under that plug is a nut (17 mm) you use to turn the engine crankshaft counter-clockwise. Just in front of this large plug is a smaller plug on the front side of the left engine cover. Remove the smaller plug with an Allen wrench. This is the sight glass used to align your valve timing marks. There is an alignment arrow (a triangle) stamped on the case on the left side of the sight glass looking at it from the front.

Turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise (if you look carefully, the direction arrow is stamped on the flywheel) {also, I turn the engine over a couple of times to take up any slack} until you see on the flywheel (very close to each other) one F/F and one F/T mark (meaning that the front cylinder piston is at top dead center and its exhaust and intake valves are either fully closed or open ). If you keep turning you will reach the R/F and R/T marks (meaning that the rear cylinder piston is at top dead center and its exhaust and intake valves are either fully closed or open). If for some reason you go past the marks, do not turn back, just keep on turning counter-clockwise until you reach them again. Remember that you might have to go several turns because what you are trying to achieve is place the piston at TDC with the valves in the fully closed position, ie: "relaxed". The F/F and R/F marks are for ignition timing (yes, although the ignition is digital, it is timed at the factory). The F/T and R/T marks are for adjusting the valves. Adjust valves at these marks. You will work on the front cylinder first, so get to the F/T mark first. Once the F/T mark is in the center of the sight glass and aligned with the alignment arrow, you must check to see if there is free play at both the intake (on the rear part of the cylinder) and exhaust (on the front part of the cylinder) valve rocker arms by jiggling them up and down. The movement is slight. If not, rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees (counter-clockwise) and check again until the valves reach what I call the "relaxed" position.

Loosen the valve adjuster lock nut (10 mm). It is tight, so be careful not to scrape your knuckles. After the lock nut is loose, hold it with a wrench and work the adjusting bolt back and forth to get the threads in a little easier adjusting shape. You need a special adjuster wrench since the top of the adjuster nut is square. I used needle nose pliers because that's all I had at the time, but buy the wrench.

Insert a feeler gauge between the exhaust valve rocker arm adjuster bolt and the end of the valve. The fit is really tight and you've got to struggle, bend and move the feeler to get it right. Turn the adjuster until you feel a slight drag on the feeler gauge when it is inserted and withdrawn. Close your eyes and feel the slide of the feeler blade to become acquainted with the sensation. If you have a friend who knows how to work a feeler gauge ask him to check it. You should hear and feel a particular rubbing sound as the feeler slides between the metal surfaces. Once you've got it, press the opposite end of the rocker (opposite to where the feeler is) to make sure it's down and you are not getting a false reading (you can also lift the rocker for the same effect). If everything is OK, carefully place a wrench on the adjuster lock nut and on top of that wrench place the special adjuster bolt wrench and tighten the lock nut while holding the adjuster bolt to keep it from moving. Tighten partially, recheck the clearance and if it's right, tighten the lock nut all the way. Recheck clearance. Repeat for the remaining exhaust valve and do the same for the intake valves. (800's have four valves per cylinder).

Now turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise until you reach the R/T mark and repeat the above for the rear cylinder. Make sure you do not go past the mark as the turn will be about 285 degrees. Make sure the valves are in the "relaxed" position.

The biggest hassle when adjusting is being able to slide that straight feeler gauge into a most restricted space, but curving the blade and a few McGyver style moves should do it. If you have never adjusted valves get ready to spend a good while, some cussin' and adjusting several times 'till you get it down pat. Once you have some practice it's faster and easier.
Install the valve, timing and crankshaft covers. Organize your wiring, straps and "other stuff"; Remember to tighten the spark plugs! Replace the cylinder head chrome covers, tank and seats.
RE CHECK THAT YOU HAVE REPLACED BOTH PLUGS ON THE ENGINE COVER
Finally, because you moved the throttle cables around a carb synch will be a good idea.

The tappet screws tend to flatten out over the years so It might be a good idea to set the piston to TDC make sure all 4 tappets are loose, remove and using a whetstone re dome the heads one at a time.

[Designer]

I'd like confirmation, and advice, such as whether it's worth changing something else since I have to disassemble the engine.

No Worries! You've got Lechy and his EXPERT advice from his Actual Hands-On Experience,...not merely quoted Manuals here.

Just follow what He Says,........... .and you'll do juuusst fine!

[hillsy v2]

Nice write up Lechy

Listening to the video again there's a few different noises in there - hard to tell with camera audio but hopefully adjusting the tappets fixes things.

[alebal]

Discovered what whas that bad sound in Trudy's engine, a broken valve rocker...