Quick engine condition test

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FallenAngel
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by FallenAngel »

navigator wrote:
Fred wrote: By that time I had loaded my corvette in a box and shipped it to UK. I had had enough of GMC and fucking American Bull shit.
I never paid for the tyres for the corvette. I spent 20,000 dollars a week on truck tyres by the stroke of a pen.
In other words you stole the tires from Sealand.....Brilliant!
Fred wrote: not allowed on the premises I was told to stay at the hotel till my flight. I saw my name in the paper as no longer manager of Sealand.

I never paid for the tyres for the corvette. How the mighty fall.
Perhaps you shouldn't have stolen the tires.
I have to agree Brilliant idea
Perhaps you shouldn't have stolen the tires

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FallenAngel
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by FallenAngel »

Oh Fraheed I almost forgot why I visited this thread I wanted to let you know that Designer's "A Quick Oil Pressure Sensor Condition Test" is more popular then your "Quick engine condition test" thread

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hillsy
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by hillsy »

FallenAngel wrote:Oh Fraheed I almost forgot why I visited this thread I wanted to let you know that Designe's "A Quick Oil Pressure Sensor Condition Test" is more popular then your "Quick engine condition test" thread
That's only because I'm rubbing his nose in it.......

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FallenAngel
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by FallenAngel »

hillsy wrote:
FallenAngel wrote:Oh Fraheed I almost forgot why I visited this thread I wanted to let you know that Designe's "A Quick Oil Pressure Sensor Condition Test" is more popular then your "Quick engine condition test" thread
That's only because I'm rubbing his nose in it.......
LOL
I cant deny it can be fun being a troll

Also I orderd some 1/8 inch tubing to build a manometer Per your suggestion

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hillsy
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by hillsy »

1/8 is too small - 3/16 or 1/4 is better.

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FallenAngel
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by FallenAngel »

hillsy wrote:1/8 is too small - 3/16 or 1/4 is better.
I think your correct 3/16 would be better
Oh Crap Its on its waay LOL

Ok
Cancellation Not guaranteed because the item will be shipped shortly
Soo I Ordered 3/16 tubing

Thanks Hillsy

navigator
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by navigator »

FallenAngel wrote:
hillsy wrote:1/8 is too small - 3/16 or 1/4 is better.
I think your correct 3/16 would be better
Oh Crap Its on its waay LOL
1/8" makes nice windshield washer hose though.

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FallenAngel
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by FallenAngel »

navigator wrote:
FallenAngel wrote:
hillsy wrote:1/8 is too small - 3/16 or 1/4 is better.
I think your correct 3/16 would be better
Oh Crap Its on its waay LOL
1/8" makes nice windshield washer hose though.
Ill find a use for it
I can cut it into 4 foot peaces paint it green and brown throw it in a crowed and yel SNAAAAAKe

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Fred
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by Fred »

FallenAngel wrote:Oh Fraheed I almost forgot why I visited this thread I wanted to let you know that Designe's "A Quick Oil Pressure Sensor Condition Test" is more popular then your "Quick engine condition test" thread
They are both my threads.

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FallenAngel
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by FallenAngel »

Fred wrote:
FallenAngel wrote:Oh Fraheed I almost forgot why I visited this thread I wanted to let you know that Designe's "A Quick Oil Pressure Sensor Condition Test" is more popular then your "Quick engine condition test" thread
They are both my threads.
LOL
No there not

So it seems your not up to a really simple challenge

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Fred
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by Fred »

Talking to you and keeping you on topic is challenge enough.

What do you want to know about Mikuni BDS 36. :lmao:

I asked you about Head studs the other day !!!

This is not a test I dont know the answer. Your huge American push rod block just use a single hexagon head bolt. The Europeans now use Torx in a lot of places and I have a set for that,-- or female allens. There is what I call a double hex but some people call it a 12 pointer. What is that bolt heads proper name.

There was a time when all you could buy was double hex sockets ,--now all you can buy is single hex sockets and NO I am not being confused with torx heads.

A ring spanner fits perfect so I cut of the 14mm head and welded it to an old socket. I put it on a head bolt and a 1/2 inch driver and I could not shift it and I am a big bloke. So I got a tube on the driver and just sheared the socket 12 pointer to bits.

I need a black air drive socket that is hardened - but then it wont fit in the recess and you cant buy those in double hex.

What is this double hex or 12 pointer head called? I cant find any info on this type of bolt head.

Mazda B2800 4 valve diesel. Yup thats right-- I cant even get the head off my car :lmao:

Now if you work in a head shop you must know about this or dont you remove heads you just work on them?

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FallenAngel
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by FallenAngel »

Fred wrote:Talking to you and keeping you on topic is challenge enough.

What do you want to know about Mikuni BDS 36. :lmao:

I asked you about Head studs the other day !!!

This is not a test I dont know the answer. Your huge American push rod block just use a single hexagon head bolt. The Europeans now use Torx in a lot of places and I have a set for that,-- or female allens. There is what I call a double hex but some people call it a 12 pointer. What is that bolt heads proper name.

There was a time when all you could buy was double hex sockets ,--now all you can buy is single hex sockets and NO I am not being confused with torx heads.

A ring spanner fits perfect so I cut of the 14mm head and welded it to an old socket. I put it on a head bolt and a 1/2 inch driver and I could not shift it and I am a big bloke. So I got a tube on the driver and just sheared the socket 12 pointer to bits.

I need a black air drive socket that is hardened - but then it wont fit in the recess and you cant buy those in double hex.

What is this double hex or 12 pointer head called? I cant find any info on this type of bolt head.

Mazda B2800 4 valve diesel. Yup thats right-- I cant even get the head off my car :lmao:

Now if you work in a head shop you must know about this or dont you remove heads you just work on them?
Ok Blah Blah Blah
Just so No I dont want a challenge

Get back to me when yo want to talk motorcycle

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Fred
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by Fred »

I did'nt think you would know.

You said you were a diesel specialist in a head shop --- But you cant help with head bolts. I think you clean out kennels with Desirer.

Thats twice now a technical conversation sends you into cold shivers and childish rhetoric like bla bla.

Whats that!! what are you trying to say,-- bla bla black sheep have you any wool..

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FallenAngel
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by FallenAngel »

Fred wrote:I did'nt think you would know.

You said you were a diesel specialist in a head shop --- But you cant help with head bolts. I think you clean out kennels with Desirer.

Thats twice now a technical conversation sends you into cold shivers and childish rhetoric like bla bla.

Whats that!! what are you trying to say,-- bla bla black sheep have you any wool..
I asked you a specific yes or no question You claim you asked for some help with a specific diesel and Im expected to read through your long drawn out post to find the question.
FraHeed I did not read your Long Drawn out post I did not take the time out of my day to read through your long boring ass post to find one specific question about a specific engine .
I know that if I was to answer your question you would just change the question Or add more to the scenario Your question is a set up

You cant understand me Because Im talking MOTORCYCLE

Lechy
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by Lechy »

12 point flange bolts. Internal or external depending on application. Torx fasteners are a very different animal.
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FallenAngel
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by FallenAngel »

OK Fred
I read your post and Ill see what I can do to help
Honestly your use of Smilies is distracting
A Single hexagon head bolt. Is called a “6 point”
The double hex or 12 pointer bolt is called 12 point
Allen head Bolts are still allen head
And Torx head bolts are still called Torx head





“A ring spanner fits perfect so I cut of the 14mm head and welded it to an old socket. I put it on a head bolt and a 1/2 inch driver and I could not shift it and I am a big bloke. So I got a tube on the driver and just sheared the socket 12 pointer to bits.”

“I need a black air drive socket that is hardened (Impact sockets_ but then it wont fit in the recess and you cant buy those in double hex.”
Correct Impact sockets have a thicker wall and wont fit in tight places So you are stuck with having to use a 12 point socket
I would recommend a top quality Socket Like Snap On, Matco or Mac These have the thinnest walls and are by far the strongest on the market.

Mazda B2800 4 valve diesel. I cant even get the head off my car

Ok You have a stuck bolt
The possible problems
Could be that it goes into a water jacket and his a bit of rust on the thread
Carbon could have passed by the gasket and contaminated the thread'
Or your socket is not strong enough to break the bolt free

I use many many ways of cracking bolts loose
One way is to tighten the bolt that is stuck and sometimes it frees up
I also Sock the bolt in transmission fluid because it wiks better then most oils and the detergent brakes down carbon and turns it into goo
First Smack the head of the bolt with a center punch and hammer Then if you can get it hot and poor some penetrating oil, I like PB blaster, or trans fluid on the bolt and let it sit for a couple hours or if you have time overnight is best.
When you get back to it Heat it up again a little more PB Tighten and crack it loose with a strong socket and breaker bar.
The firm strike with the hammer and punch and penetrating oil used together is the trick
If heating the bolt is not practical then heat the oil and poor it on the bolt
Heat thins the oil and allows it to penetrate deeper or wik

If the bolt is in a water jacket and the threads have rust on them tightening the bolt first helps to break the bolt free of contamination and you’re less likely to pull the rust through the bolthole
Know lets have a peak at this post
Fred wrote:I did'nt think you would know.

You said you were a diesel specialist in a head shop --- But you cant help with head bolts. I think you clean out kennels with Desirer.

Thats twice now a technical conversation sends you into cold shivers and childish rhetoric like bla bla.

Whats that!! what are you trying to say,-- bla bla black sheep have you any wool..
You know what Screw you

How about
Considering the quality of tools You English use you should probably purchase some good strong American tools. I have seen a set of Henrys and based on what I have seen British tools are crap. How they ever built a motorcycle as cool as the Vincent Black Shadow is a mystery More then Likely they copied a Japanese design or stole the design form Harley
And what idiot decided to use aircraft brakes on an automobile Oh Ya Rolls Royce
So yo must steal tires for a living

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Fred
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by Fred »

Well thanks for that . But I knew all that its not that I cant get out the last bolt its that I cant shift any of them because I cant buy the right socket because Im not sure what it is called but as you too call it a 12 pointer I guess that is it---a 12 pointer. But you are right they are stuck solid and yes when I take the head off for real I will give the head of the bolt a blow with a hammer (If I have one).

Sealand only fits trick tyres. They dont have 325-15. My supplier gave me a set of tyres for the vett and I forgot to pay for them. I very much doubt they would take money from me any way for the amount I spent with them.

Aircraft brakes on A RR!!! --- now you are really in my territory please elaborate.

Uk has tools,---silly comment.

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FallenAngel
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by FallenAngel »

Also My internet want down for a few hours when I was replying to your request

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Fred
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by Fred »

FallenAngel wrote:Also My internet want down for a few hours when I was replying to your request
Na na na your not getting of with that. Elaborate,-- what you are talking about aircraft brakes on RR

Lechy
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Re: Quick engine condition test

Post by Lechy »

Have a look here. I use Lazada a lot never any problems with COD purchases.
https://www.lazada.co.th/catalog/?_keyo ... 719cM6PCHS

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