Intruders-Alert

The only bike I've ever owned is the VS1400. Now I'd like to try something different, like the Vstrom 650. Should I be intimidated by the chain maintenance and the valve adjustments? I've read up on it a little, and it doesn't look that hard. For some riders it's a big deal and would never buy a chain bike. Others have said new chain at 25k, sprockets at 50k, valves usually don't need adjustment, even after 50k.

Anything else I should be aware of concerning the Vstrom?

Chain drive works just fine. The chain will stretch and that's what eats the sprockets. If you ride it in the rain, the lube gets washed out and you'll be re-lubing the chain on a minimum of a daily basis.

Yo-

I had to remove links every 2 weeks and a new chain every 2 months on my last chain drive. I buy the bike to ride not work on the thing.

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Adusted my 650 Strom chain with 34,000 on it two days ago.Its sure not like new and if going on a long out of state trip will replace it and maybe rear sprocket.Thats good miles for a chain thats seem a good deal of gravel and a trip of 10,300 miles to DeadHorse,Alaska and back.I allways get more miles than my friends but my motorcycle is allways worse looking with oil spots all over the back end.I oil the top of the rear sprocket and bottom run before every trip from home,even the ten mile ones.Do it after lots of stops but just the top of rear sprocket.Lack of lube is by far the main reason for less than 10,000 and close second is too tight.Some spin the wheel and go for spot that has more play.Thats the worse thing to do.Allway adjust at tightest spot or you will have it way too tight and wear fast.Would rather have too much play than not enough.Of over 30 motorcycles had far more chain drive.Most were sport bikes and did lots of drag racing 1977-1987 at drag strips.Never had a chain side line me on a street bike.Still a shaft is my pic because of once a year work and thats it.Broke three drive belts and had shaft side line me twice but never a chain.

The cams must be moved to remove a shim for adjustment on the Vstrom.Like the idea of doing all my own work.On my Suzuki fours and twins that had shim type did my own but cams did not need to be moved to get shim out.The old KZ 650 of the late 70s had the shim under bucket as they call them and had to move the cams.You do not have to move them to check them.Mine were all most perfect at 32,000 and needed no adjustment.All I have had to do was replace my rear brake pads at 25,000 at home.They still had some wear.If you change your own save ones with wear still on in case later you are going on a day trip and see they are about to metal and its Sunday!It happens if you ride a lot.You then can put your still a 1,000 miles set back in.They may not be as easy as some pads like the 1400 but still way better than a easy car set.This little bike does more stuff better than any ever owned by me.Maybe not better than lots at one thing but better at more things by far.I like its light weight for my 68 years and great power for a 650.Bet it would beat my 1400 in the 1/8 and most likely in the 1/4.Ride one if you get the offer.A little tall if you are below average.I can flat foot it with 32 inseam and two of my short friends have lowering kits on them.

good info, old time rider :thumbup:

---Your Vstrom at 32k and the valves needed no adjustment. Is it necessary to check the valves manually, or can you just listen for a "clacking" sound indicating they are loose and need adj.

---The Vstrom lowering kit. How much does it lower the bike and is that a dealer option? If not where is the kit available?

I don't know about the vstorm but if you google 1" lowering link lots of options for sport bikes and dirt bikes.

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Lowering kit ok if you have put shocks on you should do ok.Another job of making side stand work will follow.By a lower side stand or heat and bend.On valve checks I let go lots longer than called for if no drop in mpg,same good start up,and sounds same.A top end racket would make me think time to at least check.Lots of stuff to take off to get to and water cooler has to be took off part way and moved forward.Anyone thinking about one of these try to get a good ride on one in some cruves as part of it.Handle good,run so strong for a 650 and still lug along at 35mph in 6th gear! If you have a 30 inseam bet stock will feel ok after a few miles.

Why the 650 over the 1000?

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Jolsen wrote:Why the 650 over the 1000?

Jolsen, I've done some research and it appears that the 650 is a better buy.

---less expensive
---almost as fast (115mph vs 125 top end)
---lower center of gravity, lighter, more nimble
---better mpg
---lower insurance cost
---and the 650 has a cable operated clutch vs the 1000 hydraulic (I'm fed up with the constant bleeding of the vs1400 clutch

I don't need a bike with all the bells and whisles... just a good all-around fun machine. :thumbup:

How much more mpg and power are we talking?

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50 - 60 mpg .... 66 bhp, See old-time-riders post. He says it has plenty of power.

I'm not a hell-bent for leather kind of rider.

definition of hell-bent for leather: "riding a horse fast and recklessly, with determination" :big grin:

I'm in the market next fall for another bike. Been looking at sport tourers and duel sport/adventure touring bikes. Love my vs1400 the zg1200 is great. I just want something more fun that can gobble up the miles.

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Still like long distance touring on the bike? Being on the road so much I'd think short trips and local would be more fun on the bike.

Both for me.As long as solo would rather take it than my big bikes.You can stand so easy and rest/work your body before you hurt.600 mile days easy.Heavy loads like on the Alaska trip do not bother it.Have never adjusted the shock or moved the bars on it.It just fits me good.Another screen may be the only thing I may change if going coast to coast or to Alaska again.Really if you like smaller lighter bikes with power better than lots way bigger try a test ride.

Jolsen wrote:I had to remove links every 2 weeks and a new chain every 2 months on my last chain drive. I buy the bike to ride not work on the thing.

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If you had to go through all that something was wrong with that bike.

Remove links every two weeks!Did you ever put any thing close to lube like stuff on it? :big grin: My Vstrom has never had a link taken out and has 34,000 now.The only one I ever took a link out of was one link in SpearFish,SD in 1990.That was just to get it home as usually if a link needs to come out I replace.Most tell me they use this or that new kind of lube then tell me they do it every 1,000 miles I lube every day even if just a thirty mile ride.

I lubed it with Suzuki chain oil every morning. It was a daily driver and my only mode of transportation at the time.

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So why would a link have to come out? Does that require a special tool?

It would be past the point that that I couldn't tighten up the chain. It would be dragging on the swing arm so take out two links and adjust the wheel back up.

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