My Resurrection Thread

[hillsy v2]

Yeah you need to pull that carb out and see what's wrong. You're going to start damaging stuff if you keep hitting it. Bench test it to make sure the float bowl fills.

[Herb]

well, the carb tapping experiment did not go as well as I wished. I'll be pulling the carb in the next few days to see if I can fix it up.

Oh man! Bummer! did you tap it from as many angles as you could? I've found that the direction of the strike can make a difference.

yeah. pretty much any side I could reach it. it's pretty tight in there though....thank you very much suzuki engineers.

Didya use a screw driver with a long shank to get at the hard-to reach places?

I think that automotive engineers should have to perform every possible repair on a 10 year old bike/car.

[ncdave]

calling all carb experts....any ideas what the problem is? other pics I can provide for more/better info?

[Designer]

calling all carb experts....any ideas what the problem is? other pics I can provide for more/better info?

Hey Mighty Dave!....of NC fame!

If you look at the Line Drawing at the top of page 5-20 in the Factory Suzuki Shop Manual, it shows the "arm" ( and the Float Needle tab) are both parallel to the Carb Body Surface (that you measure the Float Level from).

In the picture, your "arm" appears at an angle relative to the Carb Body) in the picture above. Does this picture depict the Needle all the way seated as if you were adjusting the Float Level height?

[Herb]

Looks to me like the float is upside down....

[ncdave]

calling all carb experts....any ideas what the problem is? other pics I can provide for more/better info?

Hey Mighty Dave!....of NC fame!

If you look at the Line Drawing at the top of page 5-20 in the Factory Suzuki Shop Manual, it shows the "arm" ( and the Float Needle tab) are both parallel to the Carb Body Surface (that you measure the Float Level from).

In the picture, your "arm" appears at an angle relative to the Carb Body) in the picture above. Does this picture depict the Needle all the way seated as if you were adjusting the Float Level height?

I think it's just the spring on the needle pushing it up when there's no resistance. does that make sense?

I did find some measurements in the shop manual. I'll check that too.

[hillsy v2]

Looks to me like the float is upside down....

This ^^^

[Designer]

When you look at this picture;

I seems to me that what you see is the little "tab" that attaches to the Needle Wire Clip is below the two Float "Arms"

Which is what the Factory Suzuki Shop Manual shows in the Line Drawing at the top of page 5-20.

[hillsy v2]

Float may not be upside down - but what's the float height? It looks too high in the pics.

[Designer]

Float may not be upside down - but what's the float height? It looks too high in the pics.

That is what I was getting to when I asked ncdave this;

If you look at the Line Drawing at the top of page 5-20 in the Factory Suzuki Shop Manual, it shows the "arm" ( and the Float Needle tab) are both parallel to the Carb Body Surface (that you measure the Float Level from).

In the picture, your "arm" appears at an angle relative to the Carb Body) in the picture above. Does this picture depict the Needle all the way seated as if you were adjusting the Float Level height?

[Lechy]

The small tang in the box is the float droop adjustment, the float is correct.

[Designer]

In the picture, your "arm" appears at an angle relative to the Carb Body) in the picture above. Does this picture depict the Needle all the way seated as if you were adjusting the Float Level height?

I think it's just the spring on the needle pushing it up when there's no resistance. does that make sense?

Yes, it does.
Could you post a picture of your Carb/Float arrangement with the Carb Body in the position shown in the Line Drawing from the Shop Manual that I posted please?

So far, it appears that your Floats and Float Arms are not bent to an incorrect relative angle....which, obviously, would throw the level adjustment off.

If possible do check your Float Level Measurement. And tell us what you have.

Does your Needle and Seat show any signs of the needle being jammed/stuck/misaligned so as to hinder the free movement of the Needle?

[ncdave]

In the picture, your "arm" appears at an angle relative to the Carb Body) in the picture above. Does this picture depict the Needle all the way seated as if you were adjusting the Float Level height?

I think it's just the spring on the needle pushing it up when there's no resistance. does that make sense?

Yes, it does.
Could you post a picture of your Carb/Float arrangement with the Carb Body in the position shown in the Line Drawing from the Shop Manual that I posted please?

So far, it appears that your Floats and Float Arms are not bent to an incorrect relative angle....which, obviously, would throw the level adjustment off.

If possible do check your Float Level Measurement. And tell us what you have.

Does your Needle and Seat show any signs of the needle being jammed/stuck/misaligned so as to hinder the free movement of the Needle?

sorry guys...got sidetracked with the boat and mothers day this weekend so didn't make any more progress. per what I've read, the measurement of the float should be done with the carb upside down to see if the needle seats at appropriate measurement (I found that in the manuals). that's measurement A from the diagram above, right?

As for the float needle, it's in perfect shape. brand new with the carb rebuild. I included it in a picture above.

Open to any thoughts, suggestions, direction you can give me. I'm "carb ignorant"!

[Designer]

sorry guys...got sidetracked with the boat and mothers day this weekend so didn't make any more progress. per what I've read, the measurement of the float should be done with the carb upside down to see if the needle seats at appropriate measurement (I found that in the manuals). that's measurement A from the diagram above, right?

Well understood. This weekend is one of THE Most Important Celebrations we have.

And yes,...that is how the float adjustment is done.

....As for the float needle, it's in perfect shape. brand new with the carb rebuild. I included it in a picture above.....

I was pretty much thinking that is the case being new and all. Was just checking to see if there might have been some indication(s) that the needle somehow physically got jammed ( or been askew) that might have caused it to not get freely pushed up by the Floats rising with the incoming gas. Something is preventing the needle to rise up and close off the inflow of gas.


A longhshot here,.....are you sure your Floats haven't taken gas inside them?

[ncdave]

....
A longhshot here,.....are you sure your Floats haven't taken gas inside them?

that thought crossed my mind too, but there's nothing to indicate that based on what I see. I know when I opened up the float and moved them up and down I did not feel any indication of sloshing or feeling of fluid inside them.

[Lechy]

Designer made a very valid point. I remember seeing that crazy paving pattern on a float once,they turned out to be fracture lines, a little gentle pressure was enough to poke a hole in the float, there is also a distinct lack of solder on the rim.

[hillsy v2]

....
A longhshot here,.....are you sure your Floats haven't taken gas inside them?

that thought crossed my mind too, but there's nothing to indicate that based on what I see. I know when I opened up the float and moved them up and down I did not feel any indication of sloshing or feeling of fluid inside them.

Sorry - I was thinking you weren't getting any fuel in the bowl but I realise now it's the opposite.

While you have the carb out - fix a piece of hose to the fuel inlet and blow into it. With the float and valve removed - put your finger over the valve seat. The oring for the float valve might be leaking - this will test it. If that's good then put the float and valve back in and blow again. With the carb upside down the air flow should stop.

[Lechy]

Check float height on the rear carb. Measure 7mm down from the lower lip of the bowl, attach a clear plastic tube from the float drain as shown. Attach about 4-6 inch fuel line for filling. Plug the fuel inlet on the other side, 6mm tap to thread and plug with a bolt using teflon sealing tape. Using an eye dropper or something similar to introduce fuel into the bowl. Keep adding fuel until the fill hose fills with fuel even if the level in the measuring tube stops, if adjustment is required drain the bowl by the clear tube pointed down into a receptacle (aerosol cap). You may get a bubble, to remove just back off the drain screw to let it bleed out then screw back in just enough to stop fuel leaking. When the fuel in the tube settles on the reference line, blow into the fill line to pressure it up and ensure that the float needle is sealing.

[ncdave]

so, not seeing any reason for these carbs not to be good, I installed the rear and gave it another try. I'm actually getting fuel overflow from BOTH of the carbs. is there something more I could take apart? the float needles look brand new. what do they seat into? any chance there might be an o-ring or something missing? Just can't imagine that both of them would be bad.

[hillsy v2]

so, not seeing any reason for these carbs not to be good, I installed the rear and gave it another try. I'm actually getting fuel overflow from BOTH of the carbs. is there something more I could take apart? the float needles look brand new. what do they seat into? any chance there might be an o-ring or something missing? Just can't imagine that both of them would be bad.

So you haven't replaced the float valves and o rings? That's your problem. Do the check I mentioned earlier with the hose.