My Resurrection Thread

[ncdave]

Tell me, when you say this;

.....front, the intake and appears the valve are a mess. ....

What do you think is it that makes you say they are "A Mess"? Inquiring Minds Wanna Know,....You know .

looks like scaly deposit on the inside of the intake and around the valve. given the valve pushes down, it appears that the scaling is on the pot metal and not on the valve itself. I could not see anything on the inside of the cylinder to indicate a problem there. I'm going to turn the motor over by hand and take another look. it could be that I need to take the head off and clean it very good. ...or perhaps replace that valve.

[Designer]

Tell me, when you say this;

.....front, the intake and appears the valve are a mess. ....

What do you think is it that makes you say they are "A Mess"? Inquiring Minds Wanna Know,....You know .

looks like scaly deposit on the inside of the intake and around the valve. given the valve pushes down, it appears that the scaling is on the pot metal and not on the valve itself. I could not see anything on the inside of the cylinder to indicate a problem there. I'm going to turn the motor over by hand and take another look. it could be that I need to take the head off and clean it very good. ...or perhaps replace that valve.

Since you report no rust on the Cylinder Walls, I would perform the Hand Crank as you planned. There's a much-better-than-even chance this motor will run okay. For now, I would ignore this "scaly" deposit. Let's get your Carbs Cleaned and Rebuilt and get your Bad Boy running,....then see it that has an adverse effect on performance first.

I'll wager running several Tankful's of some Seafoam through it might make this go away.

Did you check out that Berryman Carb Cleaner? It's got the best ratings I've seen from thousands of testimonials.

[ncdave]

I have not checked out cleaners yet. I profess NOT to be a carb guy at all. other than simple changes like jetting, I'm not all that confident of being able to properly clean and get them running in tip top shape. I'm considering sending them off.

After several dousings of the butterfly with liquid wrench, the butterfly is still not budging. I've even tried tapping it lightly with a flat blade screwdriver with no luck.

How long does the berryman's soak take?

Oh....and the plugs were fouled quite badly. the rear was incredibly sooty. the front had soot, but at least the element was still brownish white.

[hillsy v2]

results from the scope. rear intake, valve and cylinder looked fine except that it's running rich and there was quite a bit of soot buildup on the top of the piston. walls looked good.

front, the intake and appears the valve are a mess. However, the cylinder walls appear to be ok. again, soot, but nothing indicating rust.

You are lucky in that the front intake valve appears to be closed - hence the moisture that's ravaged the carb didn't get to the bore. Hopefully the valve seat / face is ok.

Is that dirt on top of the valve in the first pic? Maybe you can vacuum that out? You can tape a small diameter hose to a household vacuum cleaner to help with this. You would want to get as much of that out as you can before turning the motor over. Or just blast it out with compressed air.

[ncdave]

You are lucky in that the front intake valve appears to be closed - hence the moisture that's ravaged the carb didn't get to the bore. Hopefully the valve seat / face is ok.

Is that dirt on top of the valve in the first pic? Maybe you can vacuum that out? You can tape a small diameter hose to a household vacuum cleaner to help with this. You would want to get as much of that out as you can before turning the motor over. Or just blast it out with compressed air.

near the entrance of the intake there is a lot of dusty deposit. I considered the vacuum idea. I may take my toothbrush and bend it around to get inside there to loosen up the materials. Still just in the thinking stage on it though.

I was thinking about how moisture may have intruded there. is it possible that running the bike in the rain would introduce a lot of water through the air intake? I'm still pending getting an impact screwdriver to get the frame covers off the front to get a better look at the intake.

[ncdave]

quick question...what year tanks will fit my 97 model? I see some for 87-92. are they different fitment?

[hillsy v2]

You are lucky in that the front intake valve appears to be closed - hence the moisture that's ravaged the carb didn't get to the bore. Hopefully the valve seat / face is ok.

Is that dirt on top of the valve in the first pic? Maybe you can vacuum that out? You can tape a small diameter hose to a household vacuum cleaner to help with this. You would want to get as much of that out as you can before turning the motor over. Or just blast it out with compressed air.

near the entrance of the intake there is a lot of dusty deposit. I considered the vacuum idea. I may take my toothbrush and bend it around to get inside there to loosen up the materials. Still just in the thinking stage on it though.

I was thinking about how moisture may have intruded there. is it possible that running the bike in the rain would introduce a lot of water through the air intake? I'm still pending getting an impact screwdriver to get the frame covers off the front to get a better look at the intake.

Good idea not to rush anything.

Water in the intake from riding? I guess it's possible but it's unlikely. I'd say probably more being stored in a humid environment (rusty tank, etc).

You probably want to get the covers off and the intake manifolds(s) to get better access.

[navigator]

quick question...what year tanks will fit my 97 model? I see some for 87-92. are they different fitment?

Any year VS1400 tank will fit, including Boulevard S83

[Designer]

I have not checked out cleaners yet. I profess NOT to be a carb guy at all. other than simple changes like jetting, I'm not all that confident of being able to properly clean and get them running in tip top shape. I'm considering sending them off.

You can do this. Though you have not done it before, that does not mean you can't. The Factory Suzuki Shop Manual will show you the way......in exactitude.
It is basically a Disassemble- clean- reassemble operation. The adjustments when inside the carb is pretty much the Float Level,...and that is Easy-peasy. The adjustments after assembly seem to be something you have done before. If not, you HAVE US!,...right there, to help you along. ....guaranteed.

......After several dousings of the butterfly with liquid wrench, the butterfly is still not budging. I've even tried tapping it lightly with a flat blade screwdriver with no luck.

Patience Grasshopper! (that's from the TV show Kung Fu )

If I may,...you should look at using PB'laster instead of Liquid Wrench.

.....How long does the berryman's soak take?

Depends a little. With yours, I migth look at 48 hours and see how things look.

Oh....and the plugs were fouled quite badly. the rear was incredibly sooty. the front had soot, but at least the element was still brownish white.

That's some indication as to how it ran just before parking.
I might suggest investing in Iridium's.

[hillsy v2]

If your carb guy is reputable and its within budget.....sending them away to be done will save you a lot of grief. I'm guessing there's probably a world of crud inside the bowls judging by the shit in the intake and the seized butterfly.

You can DIY but if you haven't done it before be prepared to have to have a few goes at it. The upside is you will get pretty quick at getting the carbs out of the bike

[sgtcall]

quick question...what year tanks will fit my 97 model? I see some for 87-92. are they different fitment?

One of the best things about the Intruder is that pretty much everything fits every year. There are some exceptions like the 4 speed and 5 speed transmissions or if you have a California model that I have heard have some odd stuff on them. Also the parts have to be off the correct Intruder so 800 parts don't fit a 1400. I am sure some do but it is not the rule. You can even use parts from a S83 Boulevard. This gives me an Idea, in 2007 there was aS83 that came in blue, I don't know if it would match your bike and you would not get the cream/white inset but the tank may match. You would have a better chance finding a new tank for Boulevard.

[ncdave]

Got a bit more work done over the weekend. I got the air filter housing off. Found that mice had made a great winter home there. No idea why they find them so much. Lol

I tore into the tank too. Ground down the paint to bare metal. A number of pinholes through and another spot that was about half inch long. I cut away a section of the bad metal. Got lots of rust out of the tank. I will need to find someone local to do some welding for me and will clean ans seal the inside rather then buy another

[sgtcall]

Tape up the holes in the tank then fill it with white vinegar and put the gas cap on, let it sit for a couple of hours shaking it every 30 minutes or so. That should be enough to get any remaining rust out. If the walls are rusted thin anywhere else the vinegar may eat through but at least you would find the thin spots before you take it to the welder.

[Designer]

Wow! That's gotta be pretty close to The World Record for 1400 Gas Tank rust laying there!

You didn't say what you did to get all that out. Did you use some sort of Abrasive/Scraping action to physically remove all that Particulate?

When making my Stock Tank hold 4.2 gallons, I "scraped" the rust out of the inside using a 3 foot length of Sash Cord Chain and put the Tank in my Clothes Dryer. To keep it from getting all banged up, stuffed a bunch of Blankets around it so it wouldn't move around inside the Drum, and set the Dryer on "Air" only (no heat).

Worked like a charm! The inside Metal was almost shiny.

[hillsy v2]

Your best bet with the tank is probably a radiator repair workshop. They should be able to treat the insides of the tank as well as weld it up.

BTW - looks from your pic you might have more holes about to appear:

[ncdave]

Wow! That's gotta be pretty close to The World Record for 1400 Gas Tank rust laying there!

You didn't say what you did to get all that out. Did you use some sort of Abrasive/Scraping action to physically remove all that Particulate?

When making my Stock Tank hold 4.2 gallons, I "scraped" the rust out of the inside using a 3 foot length of Sash Cord Chain and put the Tank in my Clothes Dryer. To keep it from getting all banged up, stuffed a bunch of Blankets around it so it wouldn't move around inside the Drum, and set the Dryer on "Air" only (no heat).

Worked like a charm! The inside Metal was almost shiny.

I was thinking about getting a large bag of little nuts to dump inside and rattle all the loose rust away. Had not thought about the dryer idea. I may give that a try.

[ncdave]

Your best bet with the tank is probably a radiator repair workshop. They should be able to treat the insides of the tank as well as weld it up.

BTW - looks from your pic you might have more holes about to appear:

agree. there are several spots. that's why I had cut such a large opening on the right side. I may have to cut away more, but also, might be able to just spot weld those closed rather than cutting a larger piece of metal to cover. I was going to discuss it with someone who's more of an expert with me before deciding how to approach it.

[Designer]

ncdave,....the Bolts idea will probably work also. And you do have an Easy Exit Hole to get them all out I had only the Tank Filler Inlet, and with it's Ullage Tube, would not have been able to the get the Bolts out, so I used that Chain, taped to the outside of the Tank.


I must say though,...In looking at the amount of rust shown on the floor in your picture, I have concerns. That's ALOTTA metal there! You might find that substantial areas of the insides of the Tank have been made very thin. There might not be the telltale appearances of subsurface/inside Rust you can see,....but nevertheless, the metal might be compromised so much that later on, it will fail you.

Have you considered this possibility?

[ncdave]

I must say though,...In looking at the amount of rust shown on the floor in your picture, I have concerns. That's ALOTTA metal there! You might find that substantial areas of the insides of the Tank have been made very thin. There might not be the telltale appearances of subsurface/inside Rust you can see,....but nevertheless, the metal might be compromised so much that later on, it will fail you.

Have you considered this possibility?

definitely. it's weighing on my mind. However, if I could get it cleaned properly and coated on the inside, I think that would go a long way in making it good into the future. However, it's one reason I want to get some better "expert" eyes on it to see what they think.

[Designer]

I must say though,...In looking at the amount of rust shown on the floor in your picture, I have concerns. That's ALOTTA metal there! You might find that substantial areas of the insides of the Tank have been made very thin. There might not be the telltale appearances of subsurface/inside Rust you can see,....but nevertheless, the metal might be compromised so much that later on, it will fail you.

Have you considered this possibility?

definitely. it's weighing on my mind. However, if I could get it cleaned properly and coated on the inside, I think that would go a long way in making it good into the future. However, it's one reason I want to get some better "expert" eyes on it to see what they think.

Please do, get some other expert help. If indeed all that mega-amounts of Rust has thinned/weakened the Metal your tank, you'll be one sad guy when all that money put into it's resurrection/painting fails you out On The Road.

Any Update on your Penetrating Oil Workings on your Front Carb?