Intruders-Alert

I just added the FC4-Forward Controls to my '98 VS1400. They were easy to install (even for someone with limited skills or tools) and look great. No special tools required just the basics will work fine. Also they are not to expensive compared to other brands. I will post more as the season goes on and I get to see how they do.

http://www.refinedcycle.com/FC4-Forward ... 83-FC4.htm

I was about to purchase a set for my VS800 from them. Do they feel durable? Operate smoothly? How's the angle? From photos the shifter peg and brake pedal seem placed at an extreme angle... (I am really tall which may be affecting what I think I'm seeing)

Glsec507 wrote:I was about to purchase a set for my VS800 from them. Do they feel durable? Operate smoothly? How's the angle? From photos the shifter peg and brake pedal seem placed at an extreme angle... (I am really tall which may be affecting what I think I'm seeing)

Had a set on my 700. Not the most rigid side plates, they do flex if you put any pressure on them. Supposedly, the last time a talked to them, they made some engineering changes to address a few issues. Can't speak to the changes or current design, but they held up until I sold the bike. Roughly 5 years and old had issue I had was the shifter linkage occasionally working loose. I should have just used red locktite instead of blue on that part.

Thanks for the info

Glsec507,
As of now they seem sturdy and the position of the break and shifter can be adjusted somewhat. Unless you plan on standing on them I do not think you will have an issue with strength. The one thing I noticed is the linkage on the shifter side is a little long but the ends have long threaded areas on them so if you can't get enough adjustment out of them to lower the peddles you could cut about an inch off either end (or both) and that should work for you. You will have to do some adjustments once you are on the bike to make them feel right.

Ok whatever it does will be better than stock. 6'6" with 36" inseam is pretty ridiculous

Glsec507 wrote:Ok whatever it does will be better than stock. 6'6" with 36" inseam is pretty ridiculous

Sounds like you need a bigger bike. [emoji106]

I've sat on bigger bikes and felt even more cramped. This bike just seems to fit rather nicely oddly enough

I think this:

Glsec507 wrote:6'6" with 36" inseam is pretty ridiculous

Was all you really need to write

Glsec507 wrote:I've sat on bigger bikes and felt even more cramped. This bike just seems to fit rather nicely oddly enough

It's the slim tank. I'm 6'2" and rode one for 5 years. Down the road, if you're not into bigger cruisers, check out Sport Touring bikes. The Beemer I have is well suited for taller riders. I barley flat foot it. Plus the upright riding position and extra power is just a bonus.

Adjustments can be made to any bike to make it fit me better. Which is what I'm doing to the intruder. I'm just happy I didn't start out on some 250 or 500 tiny bike. Most beginners would benefit but I'm just too big and already fairly comfortable enough with the one I have I feel ill stick with it for awhile.
I've seen and sat on those type of bikes too. Mainly the vstrom and another similar type. They are neat and probably fun to ride too but at this point I'm not diggin the style. Gotta have that going too

Just realize any and all upgrades you do to it, won't make it any more saleable when it comes time to upgrade. I had airbrush paint, lowered front and rear Progressive suspension, Mustang seat, FC3 forward controls, T Bars, Memphis Slim windshield, 1400 final drive, Jardine full system cpipes etc. Had it for sale for 6 month @ $2K, barely a nimble. (Except a few low ballers) Ended up at the dealer and got $1300 when I traded it in. Stripped of all the bits I still had stock parts to replace. I feel like it was a push, but definitely a lesson learned. Food for thought.

Here's what she looked like before I stripped her.

enforcer wrote:Just realize any and all upgrades you do to it, won't make it any more saleable when it comes time to upgrade. I had airbrush paint, lowered front and rear Progressive suspension, Mustang seat, FC3 forward controls, T Bars, Memphis Slim windshield, 1400 final drive, Jardine full system cpipes etc. Had it for sale for 6 month @ $2K, barely a nimble. (Except a few low ballers) Ended up at the dealer and got $1300 when I traded it in. Stripped of all the bits I still had stock parts to replace. I feel like it was a push, but definitely a lesson learned. Food for thought.

Here's what she looked like before I stripped her.

You never get your money back from customizing stuff it seems, just gotta do it cause you love it I guess.

Well if it makes you happy while you have it then that's what counts. Your bike (ex bike) looks sharp!

I just installed the FC-3 kit in my vs800. They are plenty sturdy and install was only a mild pain in the ass. The cotter pins on the control arm are the worst due to there being zero room to allow access to them. Still have not installed them on the bolts. I may just get some steel wire and thread it through the holes and tie them off that way.

And the angle is a bit high for my liking and I have to raise my foot off the peg in order to shift. Next day off I'll fiddle with adjusting the shifter to see how low I can get it.

Those issues and the brake signal cable for the brake pedal...had to remove the spring to get the brake light to turn off so for the time being I need to make sure I use my front brake when braking in order to actuate the brake light. I just could not figure out how to adjust it to work properly.

But.... I am 10 times more comfy which is all I wanted!

Glsec,
I adjusted the break light on my 1400 by just turning the screw over the switch with a screwdriver. It was easy. I was looking at the angle also and have thought about cutting away a half inch of the threads on the linkage to drop the shifter down or forward a little. Haven’t done it yet but I may try it unless I get used to the position.
sgtcall

Is this screw on the switch going to be different on the 800? Bc the cable from the brake lever attached to a spring which attached to the switch and that switch was secured by a nut which, when turned, raises or lowers the switch to add or release tension. There is a rubber boot above that I did not remove so is that where the screw is located?

I never looked at the 800 but if it is the same the screw is beside where the old foot peg was and on top of a rubber boot. Loosen the nut on the screw and then just adjust till the break light works correctly. When your get it right snug the bolt back down to secure it.
You may have to post on the tech boards if that doesn't work.

Is there anyone in the Traverse City area (150 mi) that has these installed? I would love to try them out or at least sit on one that has them. It is a lot of money to spend and then end up not liking them.

Eric