Bigger oil cooler?

[alexhulett71]

I was scrolling online at pics of other intruders, getting ideas what I'd like to do to mine. On a few, I seen they had larger oil coolers on them. Like reaching almost down to the oil filter long. I cant seem to find anything in a google search or anything on here. I was wondering if anybody has any info on where to find larger coolers. And also pros and cons of a larger cooler.

My concerns arnt really for short ride cooling, bike does fine on that. But my concerns are more of a long distant riding cooling. Just wondering if a larger oil cooler will help in that department. Or any other tips on cooling in general without stopping every few miles.

The only things that come to my mind on extra cooling is, a bigger oil cooler and an electric fan. I dont want to tap into the electrical if I dont have to.

Thanks in advance!

[FallenAngel]

I was scrolling online at pics of other intruders, getting ideas what I'd like to do to mine. On a few, I seen they had larger oil coolers on them. Like reaching almost down to the oil filter long. I cant seem to find anything in a google search or anything on here. I was wondering if anybody has any info on where to find larger coolers. And also pros and cons of a larger cooler.

My concerns arnt really for short ride cooling, bike does fine on that. But my concerns are more of a long distant riding cooling. Just wondering if a larger oil cooler will help in that department. Or any other tips on cooling in general without stopping every few miles.

The only things that come to my mind on extra cooling is, a bigger oil cooler and an electric fan. I dont want to tap into the electrical if I dont have to.

Thanks in advance!

Look closer at the bikes with the larger Coolers You may be looking at the 750 or the 800s
There water cooled and what your looking at could be the radiators

[alexhulett71]

Just to show how much I know of the intruders variances lmao. The pics I was looking at, didnt pay attention to what size if it said. More concerened with the bike itself, and most angles and the size of the lettering on the side covers make it hard to see what it says.. Now I understand the 1400 has a bigger bore than the 750/800. But I wonder why they didnt have the same cooling on all sizes. Versus having water cooled smaller bore and oil cooled big bore. For me I would think it make more sense to have it reversed if keeping 2 different cooling designs.

But thank you for pointing out my mistake. Now I feel like an ass for asking on that

[FallenAngel]

Now I feel like an ass for asking on that

Dont feel like an ass
The oil cooler's primary purpose is to cool the rear cylinder
That is also why the rear carb has larger jets
I think it has somthing to do with Harley Davidson whinning about the big bore twin raiding their market
But I could be wrong
You can put a larger oil cooler on the 1400 if you want and use the 750 800 shroud if you like the look
An Automotive Trans cooler is about the same size as the small intruders radiator
But you shouldnt need it Just keep the wind at your front and dont idle for long periods of time

And Welcome to the boards

[navigator]

Also please be advised that although the 750/800 look similar to the 1400, almost nothing is interchangeable between the two.
A few parts do swap:
Front wheel and tire.
Signals with some finagling.
Handlebars are all 1"

Quick giveaways when determining which bike you are looking at are the radiator and rear fender.

[Fred]

[quote="FallenAngel"]
The oil cooler only cools the rear cylinder


Really-- Do you want to think about that for a while.----- Ok I gave you 1 day.

God there is some shit written in this forum.

The oil is pumped to the filter where of it goes off to be cooled. It is then returned into the system. I wondered if you could explain how the oil knows that is is not supposed to go near the front cylinder and it has to cool the rear only.

[Designer]

I was scrolling online at pics of other intruders, getting ideas what I'd like to do to mine. On a few, I seen they had larger oil coolers on them. Like reaching almost down to the oil filter long. I cant seem to find anything in a google search or anything on here. I was wondering if anybody has any info on where to find larger coolers. And also pros and cons of a larger cooler.

My concerns arnt really for short ride cooling, bike does fine on that. But my concerns are more of a long distant riding cooling. Just wondering if a larger oil cooler will help in that department. Or any other tips on cooling in general without stopping every few miles.

The only things that come to my mind on extra cooling is, a bigger oil cooler and an electric fan. I dont want to tap into the electrical if I dont have to.

Thanks in advance!

I found that a cooling fan wouldn't be of much help at Cruising Speeds. Why is because the air flow is quite sufficient for the Stock Cooler at that speed for proper cooling. And given the air flow over the engine, and the Internal Oil Cooling Jetting over the Cylinder Heads, you most probably will not need a larger oil cooler for the Long Distance Riding engine heat concerns you have.

[Herb]

The cooling on the 1400 is more than adequate for almost all conditions.

I rode through Death Valley in early May with the 1400 and a friend on a 1200 Sportster. When we left Bad Water the temp was 113F, We rode out the south entrance and were running in the 60+ speeds. The hot dry air sucked the moisture out of us but both bikes did just fine.

I have ridden I-5 through the Central Valley of CA in temps over 100 and running well above the speed limits. Never had a moments problem.

The only time I ever had an issue I was stuck in really slow traffic on a 100+ day. 4 miles took me over half an hour and it started to act odd. That was when I started splitting lanes at a very slow speed and even at speeds below 10 mph it settled right down.

[Designer]

God there is some shit written in this forum.

NO FOOLING THERE IS!

Lean the bike over , dig a hole for the side stand or hold it with rope off a tree, lean it on tyres what ever needs dong.You will not then need to drain oil....

Nice that you invoke GOD in your response there. [emoji106] [space] May GOD bless you too.

[Fred]

[quote="Designer
I found that a cooling fan wouldn't be of much help at Cruising Speeds. Why is because the air flow is quite sufficient for the Stock Cooler at that speed for proper cooling. And given the air flow over the engine, and the Internal Oil Cooling Jetting over the Cylinder Heads, you most probably will not need a larger oil cooler for the Long Distance Riding engine heat concerns you have.[/quote]


translation,--- I have no Idea, I am just talking bullshit because thats what I do. From what I know , mine seems ok as it is.

[Designer]

Amazing how wishing Fraud the Blessing of God will trigger such anger,...isn't it!


Alexhulett71,....may I suggest to you that it is best to ignore him when he gets drunk and acts like this.

As you see,...he posts nothing of any factual content that can help you. [space] Let's not respond to his inebriated anger so he cannot drag down this Thread into the toilet like he did to another Thread here;
http://intruders-alert.com/viewtopic.ph ... 9&start=93
http://intruders-alert.com/viewtopic.ph ... &start=410

[Designer]

My concerns arnt really for short ride cooling, bike does fine on that. But my concerns are more of a long distant riding cooling. Just wondering if a larger oil cooler will help in that department. Or any other tips on cooling in general without stopping every few miles.

The only things that come to my mind on extra cooling is, a bigger oil cooler and an electric fan. I dont want to tap into the electrical if I dont have to.

Thanks in advance!

So alexhulett71,...as a follow up to your Original Message,....did you find what you were looking for?

Inquiring minds wanna know! [emoji2]

[alexhulett71]

My concerns arnt really for short ride cooling, bike does fine on that. But my concerns are more of a long distant riding cooling. Just wondering if a larger oil cooler will help in that department. Or any other tips on cooling in general without stopping every few miles.

The only things that come to my mind on extra cooling is, a bigger oil cooler and an electric fan. I dont want to tap into the electrical if I dont have to.

Thanks in advance!

So alexhulett71,...as a follow up to your Original Message,....did you find what you were looking for?

Inquiring minds wanna know! [emoji2]

Well no.. I think ive found my culprit as described in other topics on this forum. When I went on a 1000+ mile, 3 day run, I was having issues with my clutch not engaging at the end of the day. I was thinking maybe stuff was getting too hot, more than just the fluid for the clutch. I was riding it hard n fast, I know dummy me but just too much I wanted to see in just a short amount of time and clear accross the map of Tenn and KY. But I finally took a look at that fluid and it was darker than caramel. I finally changed the fluid out this weekend and dummy me sucked out and drained out all the fluid the best I could without adding new fluid n going through the motions..well I had to get a brake bleeder just to get the darn thing to bleed out n full of clean fluid. I know I couldve pumped it till my arm fell off and what would feel like 3-5 days of pumping, but there are more uses I can use the vacuum bleeder than just that.

[navigator]

Some times it works best to reverse bleed, or pump fluid in from the bleeder, forcing the air up into the master cylinder.
Glad you got her sorted out.

[hillsy]

Some times it works best to reverse bleed, or pump fluid in from the bleeder, forcing the air up into the master cylinder.
Glad you got her sorted out.

50CC syringe and a 6" piece of clear hose is one of the best bleeding tools around. Just make sure you suck all the old fluid out of the system before you try and push fluid back up the line or you risk blocking the MC port with crud.

[Fred]

Ive never had any trouble ever. Air rises to the top so just leave it. You need patience. One bubble at a time.

[hillsy]

Ive never had any trouble ever. Air rises to the top so just leave it. You need patience. One bubble at a time.

If you've ever tried to bleed a linked brake Guzzi you will have problems. It will define patience for you if you don't have a syringe [emoji106]

[Fred]

Ive never had any trouble ever. Air rises to the top so just leave it. You need patience. One bubble at a time.

If you've ever tried to bleed a linked brake Guzzi you will have problems. It will define patience for you if you don't have a syringe [emoji106]

No I have not ever never bleed a Guzzi but the simple double piston caliper of the 1400 is not as difficult as some seem to make out. Air wants to go upwards which is where you want it to go as well. If you keep pumping like a mad ass you wont get anywhere, you are just trying to pump the air bubbles back down the pipe.

What I do is flick the lever so it slams shut, this shocks the bubble up and out of the master cylinder. You have to have the bars turned over to the right side to get the cylinder facing at the top as much as you can. Don't open the bleed nipple at all or you just let more air in. It will naturally bleed itself if you give it a chance. Or if you do open the bleed nipple you have to have a tube connected that sits in a bottle of fluid.
Ive never used a syringe but that would work well I would imagine, it is at least pushing the bubble where they want to go.

These revers bleeders are fine if you have horizontal lines like a car or a rear brake. But a front brake is basically self bleeding.

This post will have Desirer all over this.---its one thing he thinks he can do. Because its simple to do thats why

[navigator]

The OP was talking about bleeding his clutch, that line snakes all over and has several places air can be trapped. Reverse bleeding always worked for me. A syringe works fine, so does a pump type oil can. Always orient the banjo at the lowest point of the MC.
After the reverse bleed you can bleed conventionally to clear any air that still may exist.

[Fred]

The OP was talking about bleeding his clutch, that line snakes all over and has several places air can be trapped. Reverse bleeding always worked for me. A syringe works fine, so does a pump type oil can. Always orient the banjo at the lowest point of the MC.
After the reverse bleed you can bleed conventionally to clear any air that still may exist.

Oh ok sorry my bad I thought it was brake for some reason. an oil can pump is a good Idea.