Re: Front wheel not centred between the forks
Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2018 6:49 pm
There is 60 spokes and 3 different types all in the one wheel. Its not an easy wheel to do but it does have a split hub to help.
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When you say the hub is offset to the left side. Do you mean the rotor side? Also do you know how much it is offset? I'm at work today but will try to see to tonight.navigator wrote:Compare yours with the measurements I posted above.
usually balancing a wheel does not require any spoke alignment changes.
So my measurement of the exposed axel between speedo and fork is about 4.5". I have removed the speedo and will try to straighten out tines and see if I gain back the opening.navigator wrote:No, the hub is offset to the left side of the bike, the spokes are closer to the forks on the left side (leaving room for the rotor on the bike.)
All measurements are approximate. They were taken with a straight edge and 6" steel scale.
Flange on right spacer faces the wheel. measurements were taken with EBC floating brake disc.
Hub to fork at the spacer, right side = 1.0"
Outside edge of rim to outside of brake disc = 1.2"
Outside edge of rim to outside of 4.5" hub left side = 0.2"
Exposed portion of axle between speedo drive and left fork = 0.7"
Would you happen to know the thickness of the speedo?Chad Malette wrote:So my measurement of the exposed axel between speedo and fork is about 4.5". I have removed the speedo and will try to straighten out tines and see if I gain back the opening.navigator wrote:No, the hub is offset to the left side of the bike, the spokes are closer to the forks on the left side (leaving room for the rotor on the bike.)
All measurements are approximate. They were taken with a straight edge and 6" steel scale.
Flange on right spacer faces the wheel. measurements were taken with EBC floating brake disc.
Hub to fork at the spacer, right side = 1.0"
Outside edge of rim to outside of brake disc = 1.2"
Outside edge of rim to outside of 4.5" hub left side = 0.2"
Exposed portion of axle between speedo drive and left fork = 0.7"
I will update when I've tried it out. I appreciate all the Hemphill get this figured out soon.
Thanks,
. Sorry I meant 0.45".Chad Malette wrote:So my measurement of the exposed axel between speedo and fork is about 4.5". I have removed the speedo and will try to straighten out tines and see if I gain back the opening.navigator wrote:No, the hub is offset to the left side of the bike, the spokes are closer to the forks on the left side (leaving room for the rotor on the bike.)
All measurements are approximate. They were taken with a straight edge and 6" steel scale.
Flange on right spacer faces the wheel. measurements were taken with EBC floating brake disc.
Hub to fork at the spacer, right side = 1.0"
Outside edge of rim to outside of brake disc = 1.2"
Outside edge of rim to outside of 4.5" hub left side = 0.2"
Exposed portion of axle between speedo drive and left fork = 0.7"
I will update when I've tried it out. I appreciate all the Hemphill get this figured out soon.
Thanks,
Precisely.Fred wrote:The tangs have nothing to do with it. If they did not line up they just get flattened out.
Not sure if they are bent inwards due to the fact that I have to draw the forks together when I tighten the axel, before I put the wheel, spacer and speedo in there is a gap that it can slide in easily .What's the best way to check if the forks are bent?navigator wrote:The more I think about it...if the tangs on the speedo are correct, and the caliper lines up, and you still have .45" of exposed axle, one or both of the forks are bent inward...approx. 0.25"
The tangs should be bent towards the wheel to fall in the detents. compare yours with some google images.
Which side did the bike go down on?
Should I remove the fender also?hillsy wrote:With the front jacked up loosen the triple clamps on one of the forks and spin the top around in the trees whilst holding the bottom of the fork still. You will see the bottom of the fork move back and forth if the forks are bent.
Remove the wheel and fender, do as hillsy suggested.Chad Malette wrote:Should I remove the fender also?hillsy wrote:With the front jacked up loosen the triple clamps on one of the forks and spin the top around in the trees whilst holding the bottom of the fork still. You will see the bottom of the fork move back and forth if the forks are bent.
So after filing down the end of the axle the bolt slide through properly and the wheel is now centered. Thanks to everyone for the help.Chad Malette wrote:I loosened the clamps and spun the inner tubes one side at a time and didn't see any movement at all. I did notice however that the head of the axel bolt is slightly damaged and may not be able to draw for enough into the fork tip. I will try to smooth out the slight flare and see what happens.
The axel bolt was all the way into the pinch section, it was stuck just where it is flush with the edge. It needed to be ressesed about a 1/4" into the pinch section.Fred wrote:Crikey , the machined section of the axle shoulder was damaged and would not slide into the fork tube pinch section. He continued to wind in the axle until the fork tube was pushed so far towards the wheel that it bent the fork over and touched the tyre.
The fork tube would have been held up to the speedo gear, the wheel would not have moved even if it had not been jammed on the tyre.