Intruders-Alert

Hey everyone hope everyone is doing fine . I got a lil issue I need help with. I rewired my bike but im not receiving spark at the gaps. I got the cdi hooked up, the rr, starter selunoid, decomp selunoid, and push button start. I got power at the coils but im not producing spark. Do I need to ground the neutral indicator or oil pressure switch? Theres a diode with 3 wires a blue,blue black, and green wire attached. Im thinking that might have something to do with it, idk. Can anybody with experience or knowledge on this subject please help me return spark so that i may get my bike up and running please and thank you ahead of time.

Do you have a copy of the wiring diagram, that you used to rewire it, that you can post? We can address stock wiring, but 'bobber' wiring is a different issue.

I removed that diode, I could not find a reason for it,That was years ago nothing seems different. You ign has to be wired correctly if its not like the diag in the book it wont work.

I split my whole loom apart and did away with de comp and its timing system including the above diode.

Along with clutch, side stand. and the relay that controls it. When i say remove I mean all its wiring and switches not just paper clip shunts. I now have a loom the size of my little finger and not my thumb

But the rest has to be the same.

Are you getting a pulse signal from the pick up to the ignition module and from the module to the coils

Fred wrote:I removed that diode, I could not find a reason for it,That was years ago nothing seems different. You ign has to be wired correctly if its not like the diag in the book it wont work.

The diode combines the neutral switch with the side stand switch, to turn the sidestand/neutral relay on. That relay switches ignition power, so if you put the side stand down while in gear, the engine will die. You would have to bypass the relay to disable this 'safety' function. That's for the OP, as, clearly, that is exactly what you did. Also, there wouldn't be power at the coils if that relay weren't on or bypassed. The wire that powers the coils should also power the ignitor and fuel pump relay.

WintrSol wrote:

Fred wrote:I removed that diode, I could not find a reason for it,That was years ago nothing seems different. You ign has to be wired correctly if its not like the diag in the book it wont work.

The diode combines the neutral switch with the side stand switch, to turn the sidestand/neutral relay on. That relay switches ignition power, so if you put the side stand down while in gear, the engine will die. You would have to bypass the relay to disable this 'safety' function. That's for the OP, as, clearly, that is exactly what you did. Also, there wouldn't be power at the coils if that relay weren't on or bypassed. The wire that powers the coils should also power the ignitor and fuel pump relay.

ok in a diagram from mmi they got black/yellow and white connected to black and whiteim wondering if this will allow the coil to produce the low voltage it needs to kick off the secondary inside the coils thus producing spark?

WintrSol wrote:Do you have a copy of the wiring diagram, that you used to rewire it, that you can post? We can address stock wiring, but 'bobber' wiring is a different issue.

I did my own harness ive been doing harnesses for a couple years now so i dont think its my wiring but im human so ...

FallenAngel wrote:Are you getting a pulse signal from the pick up to the ignition module and from the module to the coils

Yes so the ignitor unit is working properly

Unscrew the spark plug cap from the high tension lead.
Trim off 1/8" of wire and reinsert the plug cap, check for spark with a good spark plug or screwdriver to ground.
Do both cylinders.

navigator wrote:Unscrew the spark plug cap from the high tension lead.
Trim off 1/8" of wire and reinsert the plug cap, check for spark with a good spark plug or screwdriver to ground.
Do both cylinders.

Ill try it now

Bay wrote:

WintrSol wrote:

Fred wrote:I removed that diode, I could not find a reason for it,That was years ago nothing seems different. You ign has to be wired correctly if its not like the diag in the book it wont work.

The diode combines the neutral switch with the side stand switch, to turn the sidestand/neutral relay on. That relay switches ignition power, so if you put the side stand down while in gear, the engine will die. You would have to bypass the relay to disable this 'safety' function. That's for the OP, as, clearly, that is exactly what you did. Also, there wouldn't be power at the coils if that relay weren't on or bypassed. The wire that powers the coils should also power the ignitor and fuel pump relay.

ok in a diagram from mmi they got black/yellow and white connected to black and whiteim wondering if this will allow the coil to produce the low voltage it needs to kick off the secondary inside the coils thus producing spark?

Stock wiring, B/Y and W go from the ignitor to the coils; the ignitor grounds these to charge the coils, then removes the ground to generate spark. The B/W wire in the stock harness is the harness ground; if you connect the B/Y and W wire to this, the coils will only overheat.

Got a link to that diagram?

WintrSol wrote:

Bay wrote:

WintrSol wrote:

Fred wrote:I removed that diode, I could not find a reason for it,That was years ago nothing seems different. You ign has to be wired correctly if its not like the diag in the book it wont work.

The diode combines the neutral switch with the side stand switch, to turn the sidestand/neutral relay on. That relay switches ignition power, so if you put the side stand down while in gear, the engine will die. You would have to bypass the relay to disable this 'safety' function. That's for the OP, as, clearly, that is exactly what you did. Also, there wouldn't be power at the coils if that relay weren't on or bypassed. The wire that powers the coils should also power the ignitor and fuel pump relay.

ok in a diagram from mmi they got black/yellow and white connected to black and whiteim wondering if this will allow the coil to produce the low voltage it needs to kick off the secondary inside the coils thus producing spark?

Stock wiring, B/Y and W go from the ignitor to the coils; the ignitor grounds these to charge the coils, then removes the ground to generate spark. The B/W wire in the stock harness is the harness ground; if you connect the B/Y and W wire to this, the coils will only overheat.

Got a link to that diagram?

http://www.motorcycleinstitute.tk/suzuk ... -test.html

Bay wrote:

WintrSol wrote:

Bay wrote:

WintrSol wrote:

Fred wrote:I removed that diode, I could not find a reason for it,That was years ago nothing seems different. You ign has to be wired correctly if its not like the diag in the book it wont work.

The diode combines the neutral switch with the side stand switch, to turn the sidestand/neutral relay on. That relay switches ignition power, so if you put the side stand down while in gear, the engine will die. You would have to bypass the relay to disable this 'safety' function. That's for the OP, as, clearly, that is exactly what you did. Also, there wouldn't be power at the coils if that relay weren't on or bypassed. The wire that powers the coils should also power the ignitor and fuel pump relay.

ok in a diagram from mmi they got black/yellow and white connected to black and whiteim wondering if this will allow the coil to produce the low voltage it needs to kick off the secondary inside the coils thus producing spark?

Stock wiring, B/Y and W go from the ignitor to the coils; the ignitor grounds these to charge the coils, then removes the ground to generate spark. The B/W wire in the stock harness is the harness ground; if you connect the B/Y and W wire to this, the coils will only overheat.

Got a link to that diagram?

http://www.motorcycleinstitute.tk/suzuk ... -test.html

Also i guess what im trying to do is ive got an reg/rec , cdi , starter selunoid , fuel pump , off/on switch , fuse , and thats it well ignition coils too but thats the only components im running but it doesnt seem to give spark at gaps . why cant i get spark at gaps . i read somewhere that its a transistorized ignition system so what must i do to enable spark

Perhaps you need to visit the ignition inhibitor circuits you have removed... side stand, neutral safety, clutch, and kill switch circuits.

navigator wrote:Perhaps you need to visit the ignition inhibitor circuits you have removed... side stand, neutral safety, clutch, and kill switch circuits.

Yes but if those are all removed and the circuit is complete y is there no spark still?

Bay wrote:

navigator wrote:Perhaps you need to visit the ignition inhibitor circuits you have removed... side stand, neutral safety, clutch, and kill switch circuits.

Yes but if those are all removed and the circuit is complete y is there no spark still?

I guess the intruder 1400 has a transistorized ignition system so i need to figure out how to hook up the cdi to be able to turn on and off the transistor so that it generates the spark

check the elec diagram, I believe the key switch should energize the cdi through the ignition fuse.

See that your fuel pump relay is wired correctly or even works. (I have removed and discarded mine) it may be just a short for the Ignition.

Only the ign system could guarantee a really bad day . All the rest is insignificant so keep it isolated.

Bay wrote:

Bay wrote:

WintrSol wrote:

Bay wrote:

WintrSol wrote:

Fred wrote:I removed that diode, I could not find a reason for it,That was years ago nothing seems different. You ign has to be wired correctly if its not like the diag in the book it wont work.

The diode combines the neutral switch with the side stand switch, to turn the sidestand/neutral relay on. That relay switches ignition power, so if you put the side stand down while in gear, the engine will die. You would have to bypass the relay to disable this 'safety' function. That's for the OP, as, clearly, that is exactly what you did. Also, there wouldn't be power at the coils if that relay weren't on or bypassed. The wire that powers the coils should also power the ignitor and fuel pump relay.

ok in a diagram from mmi they got black/yellow and white connected to black and whiteim wondering if this will allow the coil to produce the low voltage it needs to kick off the secondary inside the coils thus producing spark?

Stock wiring, B/Y and W go from the ignitor to the coils; the ignitor grounds these to charge the coils, then removes the ground to generate spark. The B/W wire in the stock harness is the harness ground; if you connect the B/Y and W wire to this, the coils will only overheat.

Got a link to that diagram?

http://www.motorcycleinstitute.tk/suzuk ... -test.html

Also i guess what im trying to do is ive got an reg/rec , cdi , starter selunoid , fuel pump , off/on switch , fuse , and thats it well ignition coils too but thats the only components im running but it doesnt seem to give spark at gaps . why cant i get spark at gaps . i read somewhere that its a transistorized ignition system so what must i do to enable spark

OK, that drawing only has portions of the circuit, but may do. Note that the O/W wire powers the ignitor and the coils; it gets power from the key switch through the run/stop switch, which are not on that drawing, but would be upper right. If you have battery Voltage at the coils, you should have the same at the ignitor - something to check. Those two things in circles that connect to the W and B/Y wires are the transistors inside the ignitor, and they cause the spark. The G, L, Y, and R wires go to the timing sensors next to the flywheel/rotor, and the B/W wire should go to ground, which should also be battery negative. The wire from that arrow-like thing coming out the left of the I.C. goes to the B wire, connected to the starter relay and motor; it senses the starter motor turning backwards, and kills the spark when that happens (engine running backwards). Pulses from the timing sensors trigger the ignitor to generate the outputs on the transistors that make the coils spark. Without those pulses, or if the B/W wire is not grounded, the ignitor will not work.

WintrSol wrote:

Bay wrote:

Bay wrote:

WintrSol wrote:

Bay wrote:

WintrSol wrote:

Fred wrote:I removed that diode, I could not find a reason for it,That was years ago nothing seems different. You ign has to be wired correctly if its not like the diag in the book it wont work.

The diode combines the neutral switch with the side stand switch, to turn the sidestand/neutral relay on. That relay switches ignition power, so if you put the side stand down while in gear, the engine will die. You would have to bypass the relay to disable this 'safety' function. That's for the OP, as, clearly, that is exactly what you did. Also, there wouldn't be power at the coils if that relay weren't on or bypassed. The wire that powers the coils should also power the ignitor and fuel pump relay.

ok in a diagram from mmi they got black/yellow and white connected to black and whiteim wondering if this will allow the coil to produce the low voltage it needs to kick off the secondary inside the coils thus producing spark?

Stock wiring, B/Y and W go from the ignitor to the coils; the ignitor grounds these to charge the coils, then removes the ground to generate spark. The B/W wire in the stock harness is the harness ground; if you connect the B/Y and W wire to this, the coils will only overheat.

Got a link to that diagram?

http://www.motorcycleinstitute.tk/suzuk ... -test.html

Also i guess what im trying to do is ive got an reg/rec , cdi , starter selunoid , fuel pump , off/on switch , fuse , and thats it well ignition coils too but thats the only components im running but it doesnt seem to give spark at gaps . why cant i get spark at gaps . i read somewhere that its a transistorized ignition system so what must i do to enable spark

OK, that drawing only has portions of the circuit, but may do. Note that the O/W wire powers the ignitor and the coils; it gets power from the key switch through the run/stop switch, which are not on that drawing, but would be upper right. If you have battery Voltage at the coils, you should have the same at the ignitor - something to check. Those two things in circles that connect to the W and B/Y wires are the transistors inside the ignitor, and they cause the spark. The G, L, Y, and R wires go to the timing sensors next to the flywheel/rotor, and the B/W wire should go to ground, which should also be battery negative. The wire from that arrow-like thing coming out the left of the I.C. goes to the B wire, connected to the starter relay and motor; it senses the starter motor turning backwards, and kills the spark when that happens (engine running backwards). Pulses from the timing sensors trigger the ignitor to generate the outputs on the transistors that make the coils spark. Without those pulses, or if the B/W wire is not grounded, the ignitor will not work.

Ok ill try again in morning. Does the crankshaft position sensor wire need to be grounded? Hooked up to power? I think i might have the B wire on wrong side of starter selunoid...remember im running a harness from scratch theres nothing there from oem harness