How To: Clean Intruder Switches (Various Models)

The information presented here applies to most all motorcycles in general.
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How To: Clean Intruder Switches (Various Models)

Postby 98VS1400 » Mon Sep 22, 2014 6:27 am

A write-up by Truckingeek of Intruder Alert


So you need to pull apart your switches and do a bit of cleaning, troubleshooting or repair. The good news is that Suzuki switches are user friendly … The bad news is that the parts inside are small (very small). If you have good eyesight get out a pair of magnifying glasses and you will be ok. It you have bad eyesight like me… go get your super strong glasses and let’s get to it!

Take the switches off the handle bars by removing the two Philips screws. The right side controls will need to have the throttle cable removed if you wish to completely remove the cover for polishing.

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Once the housing is open I like to take the switches off and work with them on my bench. You do not have to remove the switches but it does make life easier. Unless of course you don’t want to tear into the bike to disconnect all the wiring, your call. If you do not remove the switches from the bike be sure to put down some kind of “drop cloth” because the pieces inside the housing are tiny. If you drop one… fug.

Both switches are identical in design and very easy to remove. The on/off and hi/low switch removal is the same. The same goes for the starter and horn switch.

There are five screws on the left side controls that I have number 1 through 5 and four screws on the right side controls that I have numbered 1 through 5…. But there are only 4 screws here! Why did I number them 1 though 5? For simplicity while describing (by number) what number screw to remove I skipped labeling number 4 on the right side as number 4 and called it number 5 instead.

For the on/off and hi/low switch you can remove number one screw and disassemble the switch to clean the copper contacts on the black piece of plastic and the one piece of copper on the red piece of plastic (black on hi/low switch). The copper on the black plastic is molded into the black plastic BUT the copper on the red piece is inserted into it and WILL come out easily... Problem here is that there is a tiny tiny tiny spring that pushes the copper away from the red piece towards the black piece. Don’t lose that spring. Clean the copper with a small wire brush and reinstall it. Mush some kind of dielectric grease in there.

NOTE: I highly recommend Grote’s corrosion preventative paste. It can be purchased online, at Princess Auto, most Semi Truck parts stores or at truck stops. I have “Field Tested” this stuff for over two million miles in a harsh commercial environment on my semi’s and trailers. It works and it’s cheap. Cost is around $4.00 for a tube. A tube lasts me about a year. You? Probably 20 years.

Grote

Reinstall the screw holding everything together. Screw number 2 holds the thumb switch onto the housing. You can remove it if you wish to paint the button or polish the housing.

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For the left side controls only the next step is to clean up the turn signal switches contacts. Remove screw number three and four. The outer housing will come off. Remove the next piece by inserting a small screwdriver or dental pick under it and give it a gentle tug towards you. Clean the copper contacts and put some Grote paste on them.

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Gently push the plastic retaining piece towards the bottom of the housing to release the Left /Right Signal Thumb button. Clean it and apply some grease to the “slider”. At this point you can reassemble the switch or leave it off to polish the housing.
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Next is the starter button and horn button… Plug in your soldering iron and go grab a beer or a coffee. Yes I am serious… just do it.

Ok then now you have your beverage and the iron warming up it’s time to do this right. You can fix/clean the horn and starter button without removing them from the housing but man o man what a pain in the butt it will be. I highly recommend you take the switches out of the housing so you can work on them and also polish the aluminum housing.

If you do not want to de-solder the wires from the switches well, Best of luck with that. Once you get them out continue on reading.

For those of you who will do it right… note the color of wires and make a small diagram so you will know what wire goes where when reconnecting them.  De-solder the two wires on both switches (total of four) and remove the housing.

You will now have the switch button. Notice the two tabs on the sides of the switch housing? You can separate the housing by gently prying the small tab on both sides of the housing away from itself. Please note in my photos one of the copper contacts is busted off.

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Once part you will have something like this. Clean the copper contacts, put some Grote paste in the spring and contact area and re-assemble.

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Polish, clean or do whatever you are going to do to your housings now. When done, reinstall the starter and horn buttons then solder the wires back on. Put retaining clip and screw back in put some Grote paste on the solder joints and reinstall switches onto handle bars.

DONE!

If you have any questions or would like to suggest some improvements in order to make this how-to as easy to follow as possible feel free to contact me at thetruckingeek@gmail.com

I also have this Howto in PDF format that I will email to anybody who wants it.

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Re: How To: Clean Intruder Switches (Various Models)

Postby old time rider » Sun Oct 18, 2015 8:41 am

That was a really good post even more so for ones that like me in past years have bought a motorcycle that has sat out side or uncovered in less than good places. [emoji106]

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Re: How To: Clean Intruder Switches (Various Models)

Postby NE_FL » Mon Oct 19, 2015 4:12 pm

Is this pertinent to all bikes or just Intruders? Is this good regular maintenance or just when having problematic symptoms? How often should this be done? Any other systems that need such intensive attention? This type of write-up is in minute detail with illustrations that leaves no question as to how to do it. Very helpful. :clap:

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Re: How To: Clean Intruder Switches (Various Models)

Postby YoDude » Mon Oct 19, 2015 10:05 pm

Considering most bikes are built relatively equally, it should pertain to most all bikes of the day and even still. Of course manufacturers parts vary, so the pics won't make complete sense in all instances, but the information provided should enable pretty much anyone to gain enough knowledge to successfully rebuild the switches. At least things to look for like springs and the like. Just take things apart CAREFULLY and take your own pics if you think you need too for reassembly. You'll be fine! [emoji106]

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Re: How To: Clean Intruder Switches (Various Models)

Postby scootermcq » Tue Oct 20, 2015 4:41 am

NE_FL wrote:Is this good regular maintenance or just when having problematic symptoms? How often should this be done?


If it ain't broke don't fix it.....

Only do this when experiencing problems. Anytime you do something along these lines you risk loosing or breaking something that will make you have to replace the unit.
Scott

Image

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Re: How To: Clean Intruder Switches (Various Models)

Postby Spitfire » Tue Oct 20, 2015 11:50 am

Never a truer statement was ever made. The manual pretty well sums up all the "regular" maintenance that is required. I suspect if the bike is parked in a protected area when not being ridden and is not on the coast this type of thing will not be an issue. I wonder if shooting a little WD40 into the switch housings would be a helpful thing to do if you are worried about moisture build up? :donno:

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Re: How To: Clean Intruder Switches (Various Models)

Postby old time rider » Tue Oct 20, 2015 3:11 pm

I allways try to lube any moving metal parts that you can get to.If you have a clutch cable lube it.Kill switch at side stand,throttle cables,and I do spray some WD or something like it in side switch housing.I may have but do not think I ever hurt anything by lubing it.Do not lube or Armor all tires or seat at any time.

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Re: How To: Clean Intruder Switches (Various Models)

Postby YoDude » Wed Oct 21, 2015 12:04 am

Armor-all sucks ass....let us not go there!

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Re: How To: Clean Intruder Switches (Various Models)

Postby WearySoldier » Mon Sep 12, 2016 8:43 am

What happened to images?? would like to C as I have a horn that likes to blow all the time!!
Fight on Weary Solder the battle's almost done! :rock:

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Re: How To: Clean Intruder Switches (Various Models)

Postby Elsie rider » Wed Oct 19, 2016 9:53 am

Spitfire wrote:Never a truer statement was ever made. The manual pretty well sums up all the "regular" maintenance that is required. I suspect if the bike is parked in a protected area when not being ridden and is not on the coast this type of thing will not be an issue. I wonder if shooting a little WD40 into the switch housings would be a helpful thing to do if you are worried about moisture build up? :donno:




do not use WD40...it can mess with some plastics...use a contact cleaner spray first ..then spray with silicone....if you have to clean the switch ,,

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Re: How To: Clean Intruder Switches (Various Models)

Postby Spitfire » Thu Oct 20, 2016 9:34 am

Silicone spray, huh sounds reasonable to me. I'll have to try that on my wife's Goldwing trike.


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