85 Intruder No Start Condition

[SLANDRO]

Ok. Got an update guys. Made some progress. some good news but also some bad (atleast for me right haha).

So just to clarify for anyone in the future, these are the plugs to be removed
Rear Carb

Front Carb

I did just like Herb said. I used a small drill bit and threaded a drywall screw with hand screwdriver until the plug started turning. Then turned and pulled with some pliers. Came right out.

Here is the plug out. You can see the Idle Mix Screw in there now

Just as described. Mix screw, spring, washer followed by o-ring. All in that order.

Here is the old vs. new o-ring. New one is on top.

So I was able to fully replace all orings in the carb for a full rebuild. Feels good to not have ANY "extra" parts from rebuild kit.
So in the process. It went just like you guys described. Once the plug was out. I turned the mix screw in just to see where it was at. ~2 1/2 turns for the rear, and 2 1/4 for the front. Got the mix screw out and the spring was held in there. Used my pick, came right out. Poked the washer, followed suit. The oring was somewhat stuck on to the carb body, but a little bit of finesse with the pick and it had no choice but to come out after all those years.
Sprayed some Carb Cleaner in there. Followed by compressed air and all was looking good.
I was very careful when pulling the mix screws out to not lose any of the parts and was successfull.
So before the bad part, to answer Lechy, yes I did clean the pilot air jets. Removed them, along with all other jets i could remove from inside the bowl. Left them in a bottle soaking in carb cleaner, took my carb cleaning brushed and went to town on all jets and orifices on carb body as best i could.
So the bad news is that when I first did the rebuild I broke one of the arms for the float pin on the rear carb. I believe the gum from the fuel had the pin somewhat siezed and I was a bit too persuasive. I tried to throw some JB weld on it some months back when I first dove into this. I let it cure for about 3-4 days. It was holding up, but today I nudged it, and it broke off. The fact that its always submerged in fuel probably doesn't help. I threw some more JB on it and have it sitting with a clamp as last time I just left it there without any pressure. So I'm hoping I can save this carb. What do you guys think?

[Designer]

Ok. Got an update guys. Made some progress. some good news but also some bad (atleast for me right haha).
So I was able to fully replace all orings in the carb for a full rebuild. Feels good to not have ANY "extra" parts from rebuild kit.
So in the process. It went just like you guys described. Once the plug was out. I turned the mix screw in just to see where it was at. ~2 1/2 turns for the rear, and 2 1/4 for the front. Got the mix screw out and the spring was held in there. Used my pick, came right out. Poked the washer, followed suit. The oring was somewhat stuck on to the carb body, but a little bit of finesse with the pick and it had no choice but to come out after all those years.
Sprayed some Carb Cleaner in there. Followed by compressed air and all was looking good.
I was very careful when pulling the mix screws out to not lose any of the parts and was successfull.

Most good news to hear!

Glad you didn't have more trouble with the Washer too. How dirty was it in there?

My friend used some JB Weld on the same broken part. Held up well when left alone inside the Float Bowl, as did tyours,...so Keep The Faith there!

[SLANDRO]

Most good news to hear!

Glad you didn't have more trouble with the Washer too. How dirty was it in there?

My friend used some JB Weld on the same broken part. Held up well when left alone inside the Float Bowl, as did tyours,...so Keep The Faith there!

Sorry. I forgot to take pics of the actual conditions of the inside once i removed the screws. But tbh, it wasn't that dirty. Maybe because I had already sprayed tons of carb cleaner in there. idk? I thought that I would find the o-ring in pieces, but good thing it was still in one piece and didn't give me a hard time really on both carbs. It took me about an hour or so to do this on both. I would be putting it back together right now, but because of the broken float pin arm I can't. Gonna give it at least 3 days, and if I have time during the week, I'll start reassembly. If not, next weekend. But here is how I have it sitting right now. I do feel optimistic now knowing about your friend. Hell yeah. DIY all day.

I used something flat to lean against with the c-clamp to give some pressure on the opposite end so we'll see.
Also I left the float pin in there so that it is lined up properly once the JB cures.
And there I circled where the idle mix screw goes

[hillsy]

The passageways for the idle screw and pilot jet circuits are tiny - you will more than likely not see any crud in them. With carbs that have sat that long it can be a real bitch to get those passages clean.

Good luck with the float pin post.

[hillsy]

Forgot to add - it's a good idea to either sand down the float pin or run a drill bit through the posts to ensure the pin slides freely through the holes (not sloppy loose though). Especially seeing you are gluing the post - if the pin is tight you will risk breaking the post off again. The pin can't slide out in operation - the carb bowl will stop this.

[Designer]

Most good news to hear! Glad you didn't have more trouble with the Washer too. How dirty was it in there?
My friend used some JB Weld on the same broken part. Held up well when left alone inside the Float Bowl, as did tyours,...so Keep The Faith there!

Sorry. I forgot to take pics of the actual conditions of the inside once i removed the screws. But tbh, it wasn't that dirty. Maybe because I had already sprayed tons of carb cleaner in there. idk?

Since you reported you did this for Carb Cleaning;

3.The cleaning was done with carb cleaner and compressed air. I took it apart as much as I saw I could. Pulled all of the jets and little parts. Left them sitting in a bottle submerged in carb cleaner, bought myself a carb cleaning brush kit on amazon to properly clean all orifices on carb body. Rinsed with carb cleaner and blew out with air. Im pretty confident in the cleaning I did, but I could be wrong.

It's pretty unlikely that there was any residue left behind in the in the Idle Screw orifice. That you left the carbs submerged & soaking means the Cleaner was working long & well in that area before you blew it out. So, if you Idling Problem was these Idle Screws, it is most probably because of the "O" rings lacking a seal.

Also, as hillsy points out, the alignment of the Pin might be off a little bit. To check this, first push the pin through the Glued Post and see how it aligns the hole in the other unbroken Post....then do the same the other way. If close, you might be able to push it through just enough. If not, I suggest you first reinforce the Glued Post with an additional layer of JB weld all around the glued joint....to act and a sort-of Splint. Then,. when thus strengthened,...us a Drill Bit the size of the Pin and HAND TURN it inside the Glued Post hole to gain alignment.

[hillsy]

It's pretty unlikely that there was any residue left behind in the in the Idle Screw orifice. That you left the carbs submerged & soaking means the Cleaner was working long & well in that area before you blew it out. So, if you Idling Problem was these Idle Screws, it is most probably because of the "O" rings lacking a seal.

He never said he soaked the carbs - he soaked the jets.

If you know what you are looking at - have a look at the staining on the carb bodies inside the float bowl. Add in the fact that these carbs have NEVER had the mixture screws removed and you pretty much know they will need serious cleaning in the pilot and idle circuits.

[Designer]

He never said he soaked the carbs - he soaked the jets.

Yes, I see now he said that.

If you know what you are looking at - have a look at the staining on the carb bodies inside the float bowl. Add in the fact that these carbs have NEVER had the mixture screws removed and you pretty much know they will need serious cleaning in the pilot and idle circuits.

"Need for Serious Cleaning of the Pilot and Idle Circuits"........Well, that's not he reported to us;

Sorry. I forgot to take pics of the actual conditions of the inside once i removed the screws. But tbh, it wasn't that dirty. Maybe because I had already sprayed tons of carb cleaner in there. idk? .....

And the picture he took of the removed Needle confirms that. Which can be attributed to his Due Diligence And Efforts in all the work he did cleaning the passages, etc.

The cleaning was done with carb cleaner and compressed air. I took it apart as much as I saw I could. Pulled all of the jets and little parts. Left them sitting in a bottle submerged in carb cleaner, bought myself a carb cleaning brush kit on amazon to properly clean all orifices on carb body. Rinsed with carb cleaner and blew out with air. Im pretty confident in the cleaning I did, but I could be wrong.

[hillsy]

I'm not talking about the jets. It's the passageways that have the gunk in them and you can't see it. You have to be extremely thorough cleaning them out when you are talking about carbs that have been sitting for 15 years. A bit of carb cleaner and a few blows with the compressor most times won't be enough - you have to be thorough.

[Designer]

That's nice, and all that. But you repeatedly fail to see he did a Thorough Flushing with Cleaner & Air Pressure Cleaning of all those passages.

Why do you keep dissing his Cleaning Abilities & Efforts?,.... And,... do so without ANY evidence to back up your claims?

Just what do you hope to accomplish in doing so? Aren't we supposed to be HELPING HIM?

[hillsy]

That's nice, and all that. But you repeatedly fail to see he did a Thorough Flushing with Cleaner & Air Pressure Cleaning of all those passages.

Why do you keep dissing his Cleaning Abilities & Efforts?,.... And,... do so without ANY evidence to back up your claims?

Just what do you hope to accomplish in doing so? Aren't we supposed to be HELPING HIM?

He hasn't clean them properly if he hasn't taken the idle mixture screws out. The bike only ran on choke which pretty much confirms this.

I actually AM helping him here....

[Lechy]

Earwig O again.

[hillsy]

Earwig O again.

Yep

[SLANDRO]

The passageways for the idle screw and pilot jet circuits are tiny - you will more than likely not see any crud in them. With carbs that have sat that long it can be a real bitch to get those passages clean.

Yeah. Tiny is right. The smallest brush that I have at my disposal is still to big to go through the passage. So I use the wire with no brush instead. (I will post pics tomorrow of what my tools are). When using the wire, keeping in mind that I dont want to bore out the orifice. Just rub against it a bit and flush with cleaner. Did this a number of times through the Mix screw passage and 2 others where I saw cleaner come out when I blew air through it as well as all other orifices and jets.

Forgot to add - it's a good idea to either sand down the float pin or run a drill bit through the posts to ensure the pin slides freely through the holes (not sloppy loose though). Especially seeing you are gluing the post - if the pin is tight you will risk breaking the post off again. The pin can't slide out in operation - the carb bowl will stop this.

Awesome. I actually did this when I first broke the post, since the pin was a tight fit. I accomplished this by holding the pin on my drill, then leaning a file against it as I spun the drill. Once I removed enough material, I held some sand paper to it as I spun the drill some more to give it a smoother finish.

If not, I suggest you first reinforce the Glued Post with an additional layer of JB weld all around the glued joint....to act and a sort-of Splint.

Great idea. I will go ahead and slap some more on there. Seems like a veterans trick right there haha. Love it

Ok. hillsy is right. I didn't soak the carb bodies in anything. Just the jets etc. However, I would consider my effort thorough (thanks for the confidence Designer). I went through the carb 3 times when I did the intitial cleaning. Now the fact that I didn't get the IMS passage 100%, is due to my lack of not knowing where it was (followed YT vid and guy didn't replace or clean IMS o-ring/passage) Call it not being thorough, call it ignorance lol. All good. Just happy that everyone has been nice enough to help me out.
Now, going forward, since the carbs are out (again) and I took them apart (again). I wouldn't mind soaking them. Mainly for the outside body, but I'll get one more deep clean on the carb inside which wouldn't hurt. As seen in the pics. Lots of crud on the outside. I soaked a 4 barrel a while back with some degreaser and Pinesol. But I am open to suggestions. Thanks again guys.

[hillsy]

I'd be a bit careful about soaking the carb body - unless you remove the butterfly shaft and seals - but some of the screws for the butterflies are peened at the rear to stop them backing out (can't confirm this on your carbs). Anyway - the point being if you damage the butterfly shaft seals you're in a world of extra pain.

Maybe a quick dip in an ultrasonic with some mild degreaser? Ive got one of those jewellery ones that can hold a carb body. Works pretty well and you can get them out in a few minutes which means you aren't risking seal damage due to long periods in solution.

At the end of the day you'll barely see the outside of the carb so probably not your priority at this point?

Keep at it - you'll get there.

[Designer]

That's nice, and all that. But you repeatedly fail to see he did a Thorough Flushing with Cleaner & Air Pressure Cleaning of all those passages.
Why do you keep dissing his Cleaning Abilities & Efforts?,.... And,... do so without ANY evidence to back up your claims?
Just what do you hope to accomplish in doing so? Aren't we supposed to be HELPING HIM?

He hasn't clean them properly if he hasn't taken the idle mixture screws out. The bike only ran on choke which pretty much confirms this.
I actually AM helping him here....

Not when you talk the dissing of his work as you did.

His initial cleaning was a thorough cleaning of the carbs,...Three Times he cleaned the passages. Just how good a job he did was shown by the clean Idle Screw. Why do you keep ignoring that picture?

So please, stop the negativity,.......it is not helping anyone here. Instead, let's focus on making sure SLANDRO is in Good Shape for Riding.


SLANDRO, about that Post Repair with JB Weld, I highly recommend adding that outside layer of more Epoxy. It not only will add it's adhesion to the holding of the broken part on, but all that epoxy on the outside will will add it's strength to resist any sideways bumping that would break it off again.

And do check the Pin Alignment before any use of a Drill Bit. Doing that first will tell you what angle to hold the Drill Bit to make the Pin fit again.
What you want to avoid is indiscriminate hogging out the hole(s) thus making the pin too loose.

I did this for a Riding Buddy of mine when he found his repair had broken off and left whim on the side of the Road.

[hillsy]

His initial cleaning was a thorough cleaning of the carbs,...Three times he cleaned the passages. Just how good a job he did was shown by the very clean Idle screw. Why do you keep ignoring this that picture?

You dont know much about cleaning carbs, do ya?

For one - you can't tell if someone has actually done an effective job of cleaning the passages just because they said they've done it.

Second - he's just taken that screw out of a sealed passage. Of course it looks clean. The shit is in the passage, not on the screw.

Please stop trying to be a dick here - if you dont actually have advice to offer on how he should clean the carbs just dont post.

[Designer]

SLANDRO,...I am sorry you are experiencing stuff like this.

Please stop trying to be a dick here - if you dont actually have advice to offer on how he should clean the carbs just dont post.

You probably don't know this,....But we see this sort of Endless Bickering Argument and Name-Calling from hillsy not only here, but on just about every other Sub-Board on this Intruders Alert Board. I won't post examples of that here, a simple search of his postings will confirm it all.



Best We ignore his combative negativity, ........ and Get You Up-And-Running Reliably Again.

SLANDRO, about that Post Repair with JB Weld, I highly recommend adding that outside layer of more Epoxy. It not only will add it's adhesion to the holding of the broken part on, but all that epoxy on the outside will will add it's strength to resist any sideways bumping that would break it off again.

And do check the Pin Alignment before any use of a Drill Bit. Doing that first will tell you what angle to hold the Drill Bit to make the Pin fit again.
What you want to avoid is indiscriminate hogging out the hole(s) thus making the pin too loose.

I did this for a Riding Buddy of mine when he found his repair had broken off and left whim on the side of the Road.

[hillsy]

And here we go again with Designer apologizing for other members behavior when he is the problem....

[Herb]

I don't understand why anyone would want to dis the man for his efforts. He came to this site asking for help. Maybe he didn't do it quite right the first time and didn't understand what was happening but he came here for advice because he WANTS to learn;

Telling him where the mistake was made and how to fix it is fine, that is what he is looking for but dissing him for the issues is downright wrong.

SALANDRO
I have some small copper shear wire, about 28 gauge, that I use for the small passages. Copper works best for cleaning the gunk out of the passages because steel wire can gouge or enlarge small orfices that copper won't.