Intruders-Alert

Older VS1400 Intruders Came With A Silver Motor

You will need:
1 can 500deg. Wrinkle black (Dennis Kirk) (optional)
1 can 500 deg. flat black (local auto parts)
1 can 550deg. Clear " " (Optional)
1 roll masking tape masking paper - I used printer paper NO NEWSPAPER
1 1" cut-in pad w/ handle (used for interior house painting)
1 piece off one of your wife's best pair of nylon hose
several scrap wood blocks approximately 3x3x3/4
a few wood paint stirring sticks
4 pieces1/2 emt conduit ½" long, or 4 stacks 5/8 washers totaling ½" high each
sandpaper:
1 sheet ea.; 80,100,150,200 grit aluminum oxide paper
320.400,600,800 wet or dry paper
1 coarse scotch-brite pad or coarse steel wool
mineral spirits (lacquer thinner may be used with EXTREME CAUTION will remove paint on contact)
3 large drop cloths
rope or string
rags

Tools needed:
assorted metric sockets, wrenches and allen wrenches
screwdrivers
razor blades
4 ratchet-type bike tie down straps
4 c-clamps or 4 heavy duty eye bolts

The rest of this project including the pictures can be found @ Night_Wolf's Lair (Wrenching & Tips)

Hey NW...what's the cost on that wrinkle coat hot paint?

If someone is not sure what to buy as hot paint goes, I'd like to throw out a story and endorsement...

At Autozone (and other places I'm sure) there is a hot paint called VHT Flame-Proof that is ceramic-based and certified to withstand temps well in excess of typical hot paint (2000 deg F)...

At first I thought "yeah bullshit..." but it was the only option that stood a chance for what I was thinking of doing...the Maxim's header was in terrible shape, front-facing chrome completely blasted and surface rust covering most of the tubes.

I removed the tubes, attacked the rust with 60 grit sandpaper, and once I had them reasonably smooth I went over them with Scotch-Brite for a uniformly scuffed surface...washed them in hot soapy water and let them dry in the sun.

Once dry I hung them from wires and started shooting coats. This stuff covered with ease, stays put (no runs) and dries VERY fast so laying on multiple coats is not as time-consuming as some paints. I think I gave them all 3 coats, waited 2 hours or whatever it said before handling them, at which point the paint was set up hard and was no problem to handle the tubes.

As per instruction, baptism by fire is recommended for the most durable finish...this apparently cures the ceramic content completely. After running the motor for 20 minutes or so I allowed it to cool down and sit overnight.

Frankly, I was AMAZED at the durability of this stuff. Even right up at the ports, there was no issues with discoloration or peeling. At one point later one tube got hit by a large chunk (about fist-sized) of concrete that a truck flipped my way...it hit hard and put a dink in that tube about the size of a nickel and more than an eighth of an inch deep, but amazingly the paint stayed stuck in the dented area and had no issues even a year later.

If one was doing an entire motor, I have had several experiences where typical engine enamel hot paint will discolor and/or peel around exhaust ports, or around spark plug ports especially if the motor has a problem at some point and one hole runs lean...so I'd consider using this stuff on the cylinder head, and if a color match was an issue at least use it for a base coat with the other hot paint over it. I don't think I'd use it for the jugs or block, simply because they don't get hot enough to properly set up the paint, I'd imagine.

i would like to personally second night wolf on the VHT paint works great Ive tried all the other brands even the 2000 degree bbq paint chips and discolors, but not the VHT it stays the same color throughout and it takes a lot to make it chip