Hey NW...what's the cost on that wrinkle coat hot paint?
If someone is not sure what to buy as hot paint goes, I'd like to throw out a story and endorsement...
At Autozone (and other places I'm sure) there is a hot paint called VHT Flame-Proof that is ceramic-based and certified to withstand temps well in excess of typical hot paint (2000 deg F)...
At first I thought "yeah bullshit..." but it was the only option that stood a chance for what I was thinking of doing...the Maxim's header was in terrible shape, front-facing chrome completely blasted and surface rust covering most of the tubes.
I removed the tubes, attacked the rust with 60 grit sandpaper, and once I had them reasonably smooth I went over them with Scotch-Brite for a uniformly scuffed surface...washed them in hot soapy water and let them dry in the sun.
Once dry I hung them from wires and started shooting coats. This stuff covered with ease, stays put (no runs) and dries VERY fast so laying on multiple coats is not as time-consuming as some paints. I think I gave them all 3 coats, waited 2 hours or whatever it said before handling them, at which point the paint was set up hard and was no problem to handle the tubes.
As per instruction, baptism by fire is recommended for the most durable finish...this apparently cures the ceramic content completely. After running the motor for 20 minutes or so I allowed it to cool down and sit overnight.
Frankly, I was AMAZED at the durability of this stuff. Even right up at the ports, there was no issues with discoloration or peeling. At one point later one tube got hit by a large chunk (about fist-sized) of concrete that a truck flipped my way...it hit hard and put a dink in that tube about the size of a nickel and more than an eighth of an inch deep, but amazingly the paint stayed stuck in the dented area and had no issues even a year later.
If one was doing an entire motor, I have had several experiences where typical engine enamel hot paint will discolor and/or peel around exhaust ports, or around spark plug ports especially if the motor has a problem at some point and one hole runs lean...so I'd consider using this stuff on the cylinder head, and if a color match was an issue at least use it for a base coat with the other hot paint over it. I don't think I'd use it for the jugs or block, simply because they don't get hot enough to properly set up the paint, I'd imagine.