Intruders-Alert

So i'm wondering if anyone might know..
Aside from maybe the rear brake shoes fragmenting and wedging in hub to cause lockup... What else might be the issue?
Looking to buy a bike that claims it was riding and locked and skid to a stop. Locked couple more times when moving off rd and off trailer. Engine ran still. Could u-joint have caused it or issue inside engine trans?

******* Tank, front fender, rear fender, carbs and v&h pipes sold.

The problem must be from the clutch pack back. Everything forward of that would involve the engine and if it's running then I assume everything is good. Behind the clutch pack are-the universal joint, driveshaft, hub, and brake drum mechanism. It's got to be an issue in the drum mechanism. Sounds like the shoes let go and are floating around in pieces. Could also be the lower arm that prevents the drum from spinning. If that arm is gone or unbolted it would do exactly what your describing. My only question is-how much of a novice was the rider that they can't figure out what's happening? It should be pretty easy to figure out and fix(I'm assuming). If you get it and need parts let me know [emoji106]

Swcoinguy wrote:The problem must be from the clutch pack back. Everything forward of that would involve the engine and if it's running then I assume everything is good. Behind the clutch pack are-the universal joint, driveshaft, hub, and brake drum mechanism. It's got to be an issue in the drum mechanism. Sounds like the shoes let go and are floating around in pieces. Could also be the lower arm that prevents the drum from spinning. If that arm is gone or unbolted it would do exactly what your describing. My only question is-how much of a novice was the rider that they can't figure out what's happening? It should be pretty easy to figure out and fix(I'm assuming). If you get it and need parts let me know [emoji106]

Thanks brother. Sounds good to me. Lol.
I will let you know but if its a u-joint or final.. I got those. Lol. Brake parts i do not for the vs800. Lol

Reminds me.. I have a vs1400 engine that it would run fine.. But if you spun the tire backwards.. it would make noise in engine and sometimes lock up. Like something in lower would bind the gears even if in neutral if i recall correctly. Never bothered with it cause i'd hafta crack engine open completely. Was an issue in there somewhere.
Engine is still in frame of that bike. Lol. In the Bx behind lota plywood. Lol. I'll get back to it sooner or later.

Time for some exploratory surgery Bronx. Under the rubber boot on the swingarm is a small inspection plate, you can check the UJ from there.

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Lechy wrote:Time for some exploratory surgery Bronx. Under the rubber boot on the swingarm is a small inspection plate, you can check the UJ from there.

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Indeed. 3 hrs away is the bike though. (Soundin like Yoda) Lol.
If i snatch it up low though.. Should make it back regardless of what the issue is. Hope not to part though. Lol. Nice lookin machine. Will post pics if i can grab it.

Spoke with guy and things have escalated. Seems that now engine won't run.. Possibly from whatever caused the gears or tire to lock. Said neutral light would be on, but bike would stall if he let clutch out and then now won't start at all. Chances are this bike will need a new engine.
Here's some pics.. She's pretty.

I doubt very much that the engine is toast. If you get it home, pull the pumpkin and drive shaft, remove the UJ completely then you can start it up and check it through the gears to prove the engine and box. Could also have a problem with the safety interlocks stalling out the engine.
The bike will be a real sweety if you can get it sorted.
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Thanks brother; will do and try for sure.

Edit to add..

Why would it shut off (as if in gear) when clutch is let out and nuetral light is lit? And then not start at all anymore?
Guess time will tell.
He also mentioned that prior to this.. He had taken it to a few different shops to get her tuned. One shop made things worse so he took to another and one cylinder wasn't firing. Now when it did run.. One cylinder smoked a little bit.. He figures maybe the fuel washed out the rings a bit and now it's getting blow by.. When it runs. Lol.

Therein lies your answer, "different shops". The trick now is to find out what they fucked up and put things right again.
The only wrenchers that really understand the Intruders are here on this forum.
Don't worry Bronx, we'll get you sorted, may take a bit of time but we'll get there.

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She's home. 3 hrs out,1 hr load n lock, 3.15 hrs back.
Will post more pics soon as well as what i find upon removal of rear end and charging battery.

She is pretty. Keep us posted with what you find.

Lechy wrote:I doubt very much that the engine is toast. If you get it home, pull the pumpkin and drive shaft, remove the UJ completely then you can start it up and check it through the gears to prove the engine and box. Could also have a problem with the safety interlocks stalling out the engine.
The bike will be a real sweety if you can get it sorted.
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With rear pulled, it clicks and sounds like starter engages but engine doesn't turn.. And if i keep starter pressed.. A "pweee..." (type of whistle sound) sound comes from possibly the relay?.. Lol. You'd think was dead battery but even with booster.. No dice.

Bronx, I had a similar problem a while back, lazy starting then failing to turn at all. I at first thought a bad battery or battery leads but it ended up being one of the magnets in the starter motor had come unglued and was jamming up. Fixed it with 2 part epoxy, been good for a couple of years.

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Forge wrote:She is pretty. Keep us posted with what you find.

Ty. Will do. If serious trans/engine damage.. It'll either be buying an engine or parting her out. We shall see.

Lechy wrote:Bronx, I had a similar problem a while back, lazy starting then failing to turn at all. I at first thought a bad battery or battery leads but it ended up being one of the magnets in the starter motor had come unglued and was jamming up. Fixed it with 2 part epoxy, been good for a couple of years.

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... So pull starter and open it up to check for loose magnet inside?

Yep.
Not too difficult a job but removing and replacing the chrome water line and small manifold is a bit of a bugger. When you have the starter out it would pay to also replace the shaft oil seal in the cover plate. It's a popular size and should be readily available at any engineering outlet. When you have the motor out, take a permanent marker and draw a reference line for correct re-assembly.
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Wata-bish! Lol.
How would that affect bike in neutral and locking up?
Thought should it be the case.. Would only have issue when trying to crank her up.
Rear wheel rolls free without u-joint in place.
In neutral; with u-joint and rear intact.. Would lock up.

It shouldn't. In the center of the alternator cover is an inspection plug, remove this and with a 17 mm socket turn the engine counter clockwise see if it hangs up. Turning it clockwise engages the starter sprag clutch and you will turn the starter gearing and starter motor. Easier to do with the plugs out. It is possible that a timing chain has broken and is locking the drive sprocket you can check for this by removing both engine covers and feeling around inside.

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