Rear carburetor

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My Bike: 97 Suzuki Intruder VS800GL
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Rear carburetor

Postby 97vs800 » Thu May 18, 2017 8:54 am

Ok. So I tried everything to get around removing my rear carburetor to no avail.I removed it and sure enough, it was nasty looking and the pilot jet was stopped up. I stripped and dipped and cleaned it. And after fighting with it for a couple of hours I got it reinstalled and my loss of power and popping at about 1/4 throttle went away. But still had a small bit of power loss that was driving me insane. So I decided to re sync for the second time. Problem was, I couldn't get the idle to go down. The idle adjust would drop it only a minuscule amount. But I had to remove my throttle cable from the rear carb obviously and I'm thinking i routed the cables wrong. Anyone have some high definition pictures of beneath the seat i could study on? Also i didn't mark my adjusters on the rear carb and wander if anyone has any tips on where to set it at. I know all of the adjustments for syncing are on the front carb, but I'd imagine the rear adjuster has to be in a certain range to be able to be adjusted from the front(if the cable was loose in the rear you would run out of adjustment from the front before sync ever happened). Any help would be great, especially some pics.

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Re: Rear carburetor

Postby Lechy » Thu May 18, 2017 9:21 am

Sounds like you have the cable on the rear carb too short, a bastid to slacken with the carb in place but doable.
Also, do you have a little slack on the twist grip before engaging the cable. have you seated he cables in the splitter on the front air box correctly?

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Re: Rear carburetor

Postby WintrSol » Thu May 18, 2017 9:25 am

No photos, but there are routing diagrams in the service manual.
For a good idle sync, there has to be free rotation in the throttle grip, which can be created at the grip end of the cable. You can't have too much, as adjusting the sync can reduce the slack as you go. Of course, if the cable is binding from routing, this all goes out the window. Also, the splitter can be the source - if, when you removed the cable from the carb, the cable jumped out of its slot in the splitter, you can have problems. It's a PITA to address, as the tank has to come off, but it is far easier to sync with it off, anyway, and use an aux tank to feed the fuel pump.
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