Fix one problem, another comes up...

[Minnow990]

Now that I fixed the brakes, the clutch decides to go bad.

As I stated in the other topic here:

Minnow990 said:
I've got clutch problems now.

[...]

Pretty much won't disengage completely. A few things I've heard could be the culprit: air in the line, bad fluid, corrosion, adjustment, etc.

I just want to know if this can be easily fixed or will I need a whole new master cylinder?

Help appreciated And thanks again!

[DMIntruder]

Absolutely check things before going for a new master cylinder. I have never heard of too many folk ever actually replacing the entire thing either, rebuild maybe. First things first. When was the last time to flushed the system with NEW DOT 4 fluid and bled? If never, then start with that. A very handy tool to own for this and other bikes is a brake bleeder like either of these two:

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive ... 39522.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive ... 69328.html

These will save you tons of time and frustration.

[YoDude]

Absolutely check things before going for a new master cylinder. I have never heard of too many folk ever actually replacing the entire thing either, rebuild maybe. First things first. When was the last time to flushed the system with NEW DOT 4 fluid and bled? If never, then start with that. A very handy tool to own for this and other bikes is a brake bleeder like either of these two:

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive ... 39522.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive ... 69328.html

These will save you tons of time and frustration.

Those tools are a godsend when bleeding your clutch or brakes. I have the MightyVac. It works quite well.

Yo-

[YoDude]

Oh yeah, put some Teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder nipple. That will help to keep air from leaking in through there if you use a vacuum pump.

Yo-

[DMIntruder]

Oh yeah, put some Teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder nipple. That will help to keep air from leaking in through there if you use a vacuum pump.

Yo-

Oh yeah, that is KEY! Nothing more frustrating then to find out your leak is there.

[Minnow990]

Awesome tips guys! I'll definitely get some Teflon tape and see if I can bleed and change the fluid.

I rode it today while dealing with its urge to jump forward and not get into neutral...
but I'm thinking it needs done before I start riding it to my new job every day.

[YoDude]

Do you have Designer Spring installed yet? If not and you have over 20k miles on the bike, you truly need to do this aftermarket solution. It fixed that problem on my bike. It's the reason I bought them and not one of the clutch slipping. They fix the feather zone problem as well.

Yo-

[DMIntruder]

Yes Barnett makes some decent replacement springs for the 700/800. I put them on mine when I had one.

[YoDude]

Oh crap, forgot what forum I was in. Sorry for any confusion. Carry on.

[Jolsen]

Its a 700 so I think I could cut the spring out of my screen door and it would improve it.

ps Yo, go ahead and redeem yourself with the OMG amazing designer bubble remover instructions.

[YoDude]

That's very true, it's here already. I'm sure someone has probably already listed it in the 'start here' forum.

Yo-

[Jolsen]

there is no start here for the 800s guess they just need to upgrade to a mans intruder and leave the 800s to nramf and little girls. just kidding about the nramf part

[Minnow990]

Thanks for the help guys. Got the cap off yesterday and the whole thing was completely empty! My father-in-law helped me a bit, and it turned out most of the air in the line was near the top so we didn't end up bleeding it. Just put in some Valvoline DOT3 & 4 fluid in there and pulled the clutch slowly to let the air bubbles out until we felt the pressure was back to normal. Screwed the cap back on, and the clutch started working better than when I got it.

Now, I'm going to order my front brake light switch, and that'll be about it for fixes other than my speedometer, which we may just change completely to a universal ratio so i can pick and choose a cooler looking speedometer

So next on the list:

• New Speedometer
• Turn signals and taillight
• New Handlebars
• New footpegs

[Minnow990]

Yeah we did get really lucky.

One more quick question for ya'll.

My FIL (Father-in-law) suggested replacing the speedometer drive with a universal ratio so we can have tons of speedometer options.
I don't know much about this so i'm wondering what you guys think.

Can I get a speedometer/tachometer set? I noticed these types of bikes usually don't have a tach, but I'm interested in using one if possible.

[ddog6900]

Can't remember the ratio of the speedo drive off hand, but any dual fire tach will work. Easily wired to one of coils.

Something you may not have thought of, but would be much more accurate, is to use a GPS unit. They can be found rather cheaply and would double as a speedo. Something to think about.

[YoDude]

Try HERE

Yo-

[YoDude]

Uh oh, I suddenly see a need for a new forum.

Yo-

[BlacktopTravelr]

Thanks for the help guys. Got the cap off yesterday and the whole thing was completely empty! My father-in-law helped me a bit, and it turned out most of the air in the line was near the top so we didn't end up bleeding it. Just put in some Valvoline DOT3 & 4 fluid in there and pulled the clutch slowly to let the air bubbles out until we felt the pressure was back to normal. Screwed the cap back on, and the clutch started working better than when I got it.

Now, I'm going to order my front brake light switch, and that'll be about it for fixes other than my speedometer, which we may just change completely to a universal ratio so i can pick and choose a cooler looking speedometer

So next on the list:

• New Speedometer
• Turn signals and taillight
• New Handlebars
• New footpegs

I was wondering if you can you mix DOT 3 with DOT 4?

[Xafius]

Well on the bottle it says "dot 3 & 4". That means it meets both standards for boiling point. So it's basically the same. Only difference in diff dot's are boiling points and some mixture differences with dot 5.

[ddog6900]

Well on the bottle it says "dot 3 & 4". That means it meets both standards for boiling point. So it's basically the same. Only difference in diff dot's are boiling points and some mixture differences with dot 5.

3,4 and 5.1 can be mixed all glycol based. 5 is silicone based, so if you want to use it, you have to change the entire system.