Final straw

[hillsy v2]

The idle mixture screws operate between 2 to 3 turns out. If you adjust the screw and there is no difference to the idle mix then the pilot circuits are still blocked (you said you cleaned the carbs so I didn't go there).

Check the carb manifold though - there's an o ring under the mating surface to the head and it can go bad.

[Deedubforum]

The idle mixture screws operate between 2 to 3 turns out. If you adjust the screw and there is no difference to the idle mix then the pilot circuits are still blocked (you said you cleaned the carbs so I didn't go there).

Check the carb manifold though - there's an o ring under the mating surface to the head and it can go bad.

This I might look into ^ because when I got the bike there was a little rust in the intake I think some water had gotten into it since it’s just like an open hole. Luckily I have a spare motor so if it’s bad I’ll switch with that one.

[Designer]

An FYI. There is another method of testing for Intake Leaks other than the expensive solid ox welding kit unit.

Did you try the removal/cleaning of the Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw yet?

[hillsy v2]

The idle mixture screws operate between 2 to 3 turns out. If you adjust the screw and there is no difference to the idle mix then the pilot circuits are still blocked (you said you cleaned the carbs so I didn't go there).

Check the carb manifold though - there's an o ring under the mating surface to the head and it can go bad.

This I might look into ^ because when I got the bike there was a little rust in the intake I think some water had gotten into it since it’s just like an open hole. Luckily I have a spare motor so if it’s bad I’ll switch with that one.

While it's running you can use brake cleaner or starter fluid to check for vacuum leaks. Same deal - if there is a leak the revs should rise.
Use sparingly though - can be a bit more hazardous than propane.

[Deedubforum]

An FYI. There is another method of testing for Intake Leaks other than the expensive solid ox welding kit unit.

Did you try the removal/cleaning of the Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw yet?

So I’m confused is there a hole in the mixture screw? Or do you mean the hole it goes into? I can try cleaning it again. Also I ran the bike for a while and just was tinkering with it decided to check the plugs for condition is there any glaring problems you can see? The rear is the one on the top the band is white on the top which seems wired, they were also bone dry I just don’t wanna accidentally be running my bike too lean and cause a huge problem.

[Deedubforum]

So I’ve come across a very interesting find. After hearing time and time again it’s got to be the idle adjustment I decided to take the mixture screw out and just observe what I could, the screw I had in was the brand new one that came in my “all balls” rebuild kit it’s the gold one in this picture I compared it to the factory one and I felt the difference was significant enough to try switching back. The factory one made a huge difference and seems best at 1.5-2 turns out instead of the 6.5 I had the new on at anyone have any experience similar to this? The stock one is a long consistent gradient where the new one is straight for half the length and then narrows down. The width of the tips is also different the stock one being .015 and the new .023 which in terms of that small opening is a big difference.

[Deedubforum]

LOL I decided to remove the rear carbs screw as well since it had not been changing anything when I’d turn it, and sure enough the tip has broken off inside the body of the carb leaning the engine out which is probably why the plug was a little burnt. I’ll try to extract it somehow but so far I’m not impressed with the All balls kit.

[Designer]

WOW! You certainly have had quite some different problem-causing things!

Yes, I too have been,..."less than impressed"...with the all balls offerings.

Let us know how these two idle mixture screw fixes work out for you. We're pullin' for you.

[hillsy v2]

The joys of aftermarket kits

At least you're finding the problems

[Deedubforum]

Yea if I could get this broken tip out! It’s stuck in there so well im not sure how this is gonna go.

[hillsy v2]

Yea if I could get this broken tip out! It’s stuck in there so well im not sure how this is gonna go.

Not too sure on these carbs, but on most you can see the port inside the carb throat - it's obviously a very small hole. Hopefully you can push a stand of wire brush wire in there and help coax out the tip?

[Lechy]

AF hole facing down, gently tap the carb on a piece of wood, hopefully it will jar it out.

[Designer]

Yea if I could get this broken tip out! It’s stuck in there so well im not sure how this is gonna go.

If it's stuck in there as tight as you say. a piece of wire might not do the job.

Can you see if any of the broken tip protrudes into the Carb Throat? There's pretty good chance that there is.

If so,..I suggest using a round metal "tool" to gently push it back and loose. Perhaps you have a Drill Bit that you can use the Shaft portion (the part of the bit that goes into the Chuck) .

If you can get that piece loose, I'd try using a section of small tubing placed over the Carb Throat Idle Mixture Exit Hole and blow the piece out the other end.

If it gets stuck and won't come fully out, use a Q-tip sprayed with Hair Spray to extract the offending Broken piece. Hair spray is basically Spray Adhesive and will stick to it.

[Deedubforum]

Yea if I could get this broken tip out! It’s stuck in there so well im not sure how this is gonna go.

If it's stuck in there as tight as you say. a piece of wire might not do the job.

Can you see if any of the broken tip protrudes into the Carb Throat? There's pretty good chance that there is.

If so,..I suggest using a round metal "tool" to gently push it back and loose. Perhaps you have a Drill Bit that you can use the Shaft portion (the part of the bit that goes into the Chuck) .

If you can get that piece loose, I'd try using a section of small tubing placed over the Carb Throat Idle Mixture Exit Hole and blow the piece out the other end.

If it gets stuck and won't come fully out, use a Q-tip sprayed with Hair Spray to extract the offending Broken piece. Hair spray is basically Spray Adhesive and will stick to it.

Yea it’s stuck very tightly my guess being I tightened it too much and it sort of got pressed in, I have been trying to work the tip out last night but it’s just extremely tight I’m going to go by a set of micro drill bits and try to use a .5mm bit to drill it out I tried as hard as I could with the picks and compressed air.

[Designer]

Yea if I could get this broken tip out! It’s stuck in there so well im not sure how this is gonna go.

If it's stuck in there as tight as you say. a piece of wire might not do the job.

Can you see if any of the broken tip protrudes into the Carb Throat? There's pretty good chance that there is.

If so,..I suggest using a round metal "tool" to gently push it back and loose. Perhaps you have a Drill Bit that you can use the Shaft portion (the part of the bit that goes into the Chuck) .

If you can get that piece loose, I'd try using a section of small tubing placed over the Carb Throat Idle Mixture Exit Hole and blow the piece out the other end.

If it gets stuck and won't come fully out, use a Q-tip sprayed with Hair Spray to extract the offending Broken piece. Hair spray is basically Spray Adhesive and will stick to it.

Yea it’s stuck very tightly my guess being I tightened it too much and it sort of got pressed in, I have been trying to work the tip out last night but it’s just extremely tight I’m going to go by a set of micro drill bits and try to use a .5mm bit to drill it out I tried as hard as I could with the picks and compressed air.

Well,....my experience has been that Picks provide a quite concentrated force ( the size of the tip) and thus, one must be rather exacting in the use of them to create the forces necessary to work out the broken piece.

With using a round "bar" you don't have to be so pinpoint exacting in applying the forces necessary in working the offending piece out of that teeny-tiny orifice. Merely rolling the "bar" past the Orifice will produce the needed force to loosen it.

[Herb]

The seats are tapered and if you drill into the taper you will have a major problem getting the the idle adjustment correct. Drilling is absolutly the last resort.

[Designer]

^^^^^^ What Herb just said.

[Deedubforum]

I feel as though I’m at my last resort, I cannot see or feel the tip in the exit orifice and luckily I have a spare rear carb, only reason im not just automatically using it is because it’s mixture screw is also stuck but just stripped so I should be able to extract it if need be

[hillsy v2]

If you have the wrong needle in there the taper probably won't allow the tip to protrude into the throat.

You could probably make a tool out of a bicycle spoke - I have a bunch of these that I fashion into different shapes as picking tools. Being quite strong steel they grind into points quite well.

Like these:

[Designer]

I feel as though I’m at my last resort, I cannot see or feel the tip in the exit orifice and luckily I have a spare rear carb, only reason im not just automatically using it is because it’s mixture screw is also stuck but just stripped so I should be able to extract it if need be.

Hmmm. Are you saying that the Idle Adjustment Screw you plan to use in the installed Rear Carb is the one from your Spare Carb?

Could you show us a picture of the Picks you had used to try to loosen the Broken Piece? I might have a suggestion.