Alright, here we go!

[Acton67]

This is the first topic I'll be posting regarding the $375 dollar VS 1400 craigslist special I posted about here last month.

The previous owner said he got the bike to turn over, the VIN number didn't have any issues, and I knew I was gonna buy the bike whether or not the motor was shot just because the parts alone on the bike were worth more then the $375 asking price.

Took the bike to my local police station to do the VIN verification that VT requires and the bike checked out, no history of the bike being stolen or anything else on record about it.



I'm pretty happy with my purchase, $375 ain't bad. The tanks in good shape too, although I didn't attach an image of that because I forgot to take a picture.

Obviously carbs are off the bike, and it didn't come with a battery. Hooked up a battery today and the bike turns on, but when I cranked it over the starting motor sounded like this.

https://youtu.be/1g_AdjZe994

Not sure if this is because the battery I used isn't a cranking battery or if it's because the motors seized? The back wheel isn't locked, and the neutral light comes on when I turn on the bike, looks like it was left in neutral.

My plan is to buy a new motor off ebay if the motor is shot on this thing. With my VS800 I blew the front connecting rod the first year I bought it and then bought a new motor the following year to replace the old one, I had a ship do the install though. After watching Hagars videos on YouTube, I think I'd be willing to give it a shot myself, especially since most of the motors are <$1000. These bikes regularly sell for >$3k around here in the spring and I could still flip it and make a profit.... or keep it.

This was my VS800 when I first bought it and what it looks like now. With all the experience I got working on that bike I want to apply it here and keep going!

[hillsy v2]

Sounds like not enough charge from the battery. But that can also happen if the motor is stuck.

Try turning the motor by rolling it in gear (higher gear is easiest). Also easier if you take out the spark plugs.

[Designer]

In your video clip,...With the rapidity and loudness of the clacking sound I hear, this seems more like the battery has sufficient charge, but (for some as yet to be determined reason), the motor does not turn over. You mentioned in your OP said the PO said the bike turned over,...... Hmmm. . If true, do you know if this was done by the Starter Motor, or by Rolling the Bike?

On another subject, I can't recall Head Pipes Bluer than are yours. If you plan on using those Carbs, I would say they Definitely Need Rejetting, if not a total rebuild.

[Acton67]

In your video clip,...With the rapidity and loudness of the clacking sound I hear, this seems more like the battery has sufficient charge, but (for some as yet to be determined reason), the motor does not turn over. You mentioned in your OP said the PO said the bike turned over,...... Hmmm. . If true, do you know if this was done by the Starter Motor, or by Rolling the Bike?

On another subject, I can't recall Head Pipes Bluer than are yours. If you plan on using those Carbs, I would say they Definitely Need Rejetting, if not a total rebuild.

He just said he got it to "turn over", he didn't specify further.

I'm definitely rebuilding/rejetting the carbs too. The Welch plugs were removed from the carbs, makes me think they may have possibly been rejetted previously. I love the look of the pipes, I'd love to spray paint em black with some hi-temp head pipe paint and wrap em. Only concern is that they're definitely not stock, if you see where they mount to the engine there's a half inch gap between the surface of the exhaust manifold and the mounting bracket. Not sure if it's a good idea to run em like that and just tighten down the head bolts like the previous owner did. You can see what I'm talking about in the picture.

At any rate the first step is seeing if the motors seized, then possibly removing it if it is. I'll probably buy a new frame off of ebay too if the motors seized and I need to pull it, those frames are only a few hundred bucks and come with paperwork. This way I wont have to pull the motor, I can just take parts off and move it to the new bike. Itll be easier to remember how to install that way too I figure. I did the math and I'd actually save money vs registering it in VT then transferring registration to NY if I go that route. Or if I decided to sell with thus frame I could just sell with the VT registration and let the next owner pay to transfer the registration....lots of ways I could go with this.

[Acton67]

So I went tried turning over the bike with a larger battery, it had 675 cold cranking amps. Same thing. Guess I'm buying a new motor! In the meantime I'll work on cleaning the carbs and painting the tank, fenders and covers.

$375 ain't bad for a parts bike I guess and it's not my main ride so it is what it is! If anyone has a spare motor or knows of someone that does let me know, I've got parts to trade and can pay cash. I'm located in the Hudson Valley NY area and will travel up to 4hrs one way to pick it up to save on shipping. Will be making a topic shortly on what parts I've got for trade.

[Designer]

So I went tried turning over the bike with a larger battery, it had 675 cold cranking amps. Same thing. Guess I'm buying a new motor!

Wellll,...perhaps not. Being that the Starter Relay is one of those Mechanical/Electrical devices that has been known to have it's "eccentricities" (if you will),....And that a Motor replacement is going to be some BIGG BUXX.,..I'd like to suggest performing a Mechanical-only test of the Motor by rocking/pushing it in gear to see what, if any, movement you get. To make it easiest, may I suggest the same advice I gave ncdave here and pull the Plugs;
viewtopic.php?f=47&t=14023&start=77

..... In the meantime I'll work on cleaning the carbs and painting the tank, fenders and covers.

Good thinking. Even though you like the blued color of the Pipes, running WAY too lean as it was is not good for the Motor.....or,...your Wallet.

[Acton67]

Wellll,...perhaps not. Being that the Starter Relay is one of those Mechanical/Electrical devices that has been known to have it's "eccentricities" (if you will),....And that a Motor replacement is going to be some BIGG BUXX.,..I'd like to suggest performing a Mechanical-only test of the Motor by rocking/pushing it in gear to see what, if any, movement you get. To make it easiest, may I suggest the same advice I gave ncdave here and pull the Plugs;
viewtopic.php?f=47&t=14023&start=77

The clutch master cylinder is frozen up. I'd need to clean it out and reprime the line to put it into gear. Not sure it's worth going through all that work.

You mentioned that the solenoid/starter relay could be an issue. Is there anyway to bypass the solenoid and jump the starter motor directly to see if it'll turn the motor over?

Motors really aren't that bad. I can get cheap ones on ebay for $3-400 and decent ones like this for $600.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/295274897976?h ... R7iNlJKxYQ

..... In the meantime I'll work on cleaning the carbs and painting the tank, fenders and covers.

Good thinking. Even though you like the blued color of the Pipes, running WAY too lean as it was is not good for the Motor.

Nah, if I end up using those pipes Ill probably use some VHT High Heat Primer/Black Paint and then wrap em. Guess I'm new school, not really a fan of chrome pipes.

[hillsy v2]

The clutch master cylinder is frozen up. I'd need to clean it out and reprime the line to put it into gear. Not sure it's worth going through all that work.

You mentioned that the solenoid/starter relay could be an issue. Is there anyway to bypass the solenoid and jump the starter motor directly to see if it'll turn the motor over?

You don't need a working clutch to engage gears - you can roll the bike slowly and engage first. Then rock the bike gently back and forth and shift through the gears.

Yes you can bypass the starter relay - jumper the 2 big leads at the relay. There will be sparks but it should power the starter motor directly. Before you do that I would suggest rocking the bike in gear to see if it's actually seized.

[Designer]

The clutch master cylinder is frozen up. I'd need to clean it out and reprime the line to put it into gear. Not sure it's worth going through all that work.

You mentioned that the solenoid/starter relay could be an issue. Is there anyway to bypass the solenoid and jump the starter motor directly to see if it'll turn the motor over?

Yes, Others have used the handles of a pair of Pliers. What they did was put one of each handle on the Large Bolts you see on each side of the Relay. This, of course, will not tell you everything. It could be that the Starter Motor itself is faulty/frozen.

Still, if you don't get movement,...you can put the Bike on the ground and rocks it back-and-forth and slip it into gear. Assuming it is neutral right now, you'll be best to try for Second Gear as it will make for better and likely Engine Movement. be sure to pull the Plugs as I mentioned.

...Motors really aren't that bad. I can get cheap ones on ebay for $3-400 and decent ones like this for $600.

I hear you, those prices are alot less than I paid years back.

..Nah, if I end up using those pipes Ill probably use some VHT High Heat Primer/Black Paint and then wrap em. Guess I'm new school, not really a fan of chrome pipes.

I too moved away from Chrome Pipes on my Chopper, Black Thunder;
viewtopic.php?f=48&t=12987

[Acton67]

The clutch master cylinder is frozen up. I'd need to clean it out and reprime the line to put it into gear. Not sure it's worth going through all that work.

You mentioned that the solenoid/starter relay could be an issue. Is there anyway to bypass the solenoid and jump the starter motor directly to see if it'll turn the motor over?

You don't need a working clutch to engage gears - you can roll the bike slowly and engage first. Then rock the bike gently back and forth and shift through the gears.

Yes you can bypass the starter relay - jumper the 2 big leads at the relay. There will be sparks but it should power the starter motor directly. Before you do that I would suggest rocking the bike in gear to see if it's actually seized.

Alright, I'll give that a shot and report back. Working tomorrow , will give it a shot Sunday.

The clutch master cylinder is frozen up. I'd need to clean it out and reprime the line to put it into gear. Not sure it's worth going through all that work.

You mentioned that the solenoid/starter relay could be an issue. Is there anyway to bypass the solenoid and jump the starter motor directly to see if it'll turn the motor over?

Yes, Others have used the handles of a pair of Pliers. What they did was put one of each handle on the Large Bolts you see on each side of the Relay. This, of course, will not tell you everything. It could be that the Starter Motor itself is faulty/frozen.

Still, if you don't get movement,...you can put the Bike on the ground and rocks it back-and-forth and slip it into gear. Assuming it is neutral right now, you'll be best to try for Second Gear as it will make for better and likely Engine Movement. be sure to pull the Plugs as I mentioned.

...Motors really aren't that bad. I can get cheap ones on ebay for $3-400 and decent ones like this for $600.

I hear you, those prices are alot less than I paid years back.

..Nah, if I end up using those pipes Ill probably use some VHT High Heat Primer/Black Paint and then wrap em. Guess I'm new school, not really a fan of chrome pipes.

I too moved away from Chrome Pipes on my Chopper, Black Thunder;
viewtopic.php?f=48&t=12987

Love your bike! Where did you get those rims? I'm not a fan of spoked rims either, I don't think they made snowflake rims for the 1400.

[Acton67]

Got my fiance to help my take the bike off the table tonight, looks like the motor may not seized after all. Wheel turns in second gear (with difficulty, all my weight on it and my fiance pushing). Then I bypassed the starter solenoid and it sounded normal(ish?). I got it to turn over once or twice and it sounded normal. Couldn't get great contact with the pliers though so I still may be wrong. Definitely heard air escaping from the exhaust manifold as I pushed the bike though, that must be caused my the pistons moving I figure. Looks like I'm going to be investing in a new starter solenoid.

[hillsy v2]

Got my fiance to help my take the bike off the table tonight, looks like the motor may not seized after all. Wheel turns in second gear (with difficulty, all my weight on it and my fiance pushing). Then I bypassed the starter solenoid and it sounded normal(ish?). I got it to turn over once or twice and it sounded normal. Couldn't get great contact with the pliers though so I still may be wrong. Definitely heard air escaping from the exhaust manifold as I pushed the bike though, that must be caused my the pistons moving I figure. Looks like I'm going to be investing in a new starter solenoid.

That's good news. While you are waiting- take out the spark plugs and squirt a little oil in each cylinder. Then turn the motor over again.

[Acton67]

Got my fiance to help my take the bike off the table tonight, looks like the motor may not seized after all. Wheel turns in second gear (with difficulty, all my weight on it and my fiance pushing). Then I bypassed the starter solenoid and it sounded normal(ish?). I got it to turn over once or twice and it sounded normal. Couldn't get great contact with the pliers though so I still may be wrong. Definitely heard air escaping from the exhaust manifold as I pushed the bike though, that must be caused my the pistons moving I figure. Looks like I'm going to be investing in a new starter solenoid.

That's good news. While you are waiting- take out the spark plugs and squirt a little oil in each cylinder. Then turn the motor over again.

Is penetrating oil fine? Or like 10w40?

[Designer]

Got my fiance to help my take the bike off the table tonight, looks like the motor may not seized after all. Wheel turns in second gear (with difficulty, all my weight on it and my fiancé pushing). Then I bypassed the starter solenoid and it sounded normal(ish?). I got it to turn over once or twice and it sounded normal. Couldn't get great contact with the pliers though so I still may be wrong. Definitely heard air escaping from the exhaust manifold as I pushed the bike though, that must be caused my the pistons moving I figure. Looks like I'm going to be investing in a new starter solenoid.

MOST Excellent News there! And certainly the Solenoid is much cheaper than a Whole motor, eh?

It does take a bit of effort to push the 1400 in second gear, but all we needed was to get SOME indication of Crankshaft movement.....And,....... WE DID!

It might be kinda nice to crank over the Motor a bit more,....just to see if all the Valve Train, Generator, Clutch, etc. turns without problems/noises.

Since the pliers didn't exactly "do the job well",....what about using the Battery Terminal Clamp on a set of Jumper Cables?,.....if you have a set with clamps big enough, that is. This would allow you to focus on what the Motor is doing when cranking the Starter Motor. And certainly, remove the Plugs so you can make it crank over quicker/smoother. ( in neutral, of course )

You can use any Motor Oil for the Cylinders at this point.....but of course,...not TOO much.

[hillsy v2]

Got my fiance to help my take the bike off the table tonight, looks like the motor may not seized after all. Wheel turns in second gear (with difficulty, all my weight on it and my fiance pushing). Then I bypassed the starter solenoid and it sounded normal(ish?). I got it to turn over once or twice and it sounded normal. Couldn't get great contact with the pliers though so I still may be wrong. Definitely heard air escaping from the exhaust manifold as I pushed the bike though, that must be caused my the pistons moving I figure. Looks like I'm going to be investing in a new starter solenoid.

That's good news. While you are waiting- take out the spark plugs and squirt a little oil in each cylinder. Then turn the motor over again.

Is penetrating oil fine? Or like 10w40?

I normally use engine oil but any sort of mineral based penetrating fluid would also work. You don't want too much - about a tablespoon at the most per cylinder.

[Herb]

Got my fiance to help my take the bike off the table tonight, looks like the motor may not seized after all. Wheel turns in second gear (with difficulty, all my weight on it and my fiance pushing). Then I bypassed the starter solenoid and it sounded normal(ish?). I got it to turn over once or twice and it sounded normal. Couldn't get great contact with the pliers though so I still may be wrong. Definitely heard air escaping from the exhaust manifold as I pushed the bike though, that must be caused my the pistons moving I figure. Looks like I'm going to be investing in a new starter solenoid.

That's good news. While you are waiting- take out the spark plugs and squirt a little oil in each cylinder. Then turn the motor over again.

Is penetrating oil fine? Or like 10w40?

I prefer PB Blaster for that sort of thing. There is chance that the rings are stuck and it will help free them up. I use quite a bit of it but before I go to start it I crank it a lot with the plugs out to expel as much of the oil as I can.

[Acton67]

Alright I finally got around to replacing the starter solenoid, looks like it did the trick! Replaced the coils as well. Next step is to get the carbs back on the bike and see if it starts!

https://youtube.com/shorts/V7tjsLg5QH8?feature=share

[hillsy v2]

Alright I finally got around to replacing the starter solenoid, looks like it did the trick! Replaced the coils as well. Next step is to get the carbs back on the bike and see if it starts!

https://youtube.com/shorts/V7tjsLg5QH8?feature=share

Good work

Does sound a little labored though considering the plugs are out - is your jumper battery low on charge?

[Designer]

Alright I finally got around to replacing the starter solenoid, looks like it did the trick! Replaced the coils as well. Next step is to get the carbs back on the bike and see if it starts!

Most excellent News, Acton67! Am looking forwards to more Progress,.....get you Riding that thing!

If I may comment, from the "spray" I saw in your video coming out of the Spark Plug Hole, I take it you used some lubricant before cranking it over.

If it was anything but Motor Oil,...I might suggest you change the oil before running the motor. You wouldn't want a Penetrating Oil/etc. to work into your Clutch Plates as you are Riding this Bad Boy of yours.

[hillsy v2]

You've sprayed 99% of whatever you had in the cylinders out of the spark plug holes. Whatever is left won't affect your clutch.

However you should change the oil and filter pretty much straight up - run the bike to get the oil warm then dump it.