Neutral light stuck on?

[Designer]

The Blue wire is also going into the main harness at the same spot. So two wires must be damaged for this issue to occur. The Blue wire and either the green or the black/white wire correct? Because the blue wire needs to get to ground through one of those wires?

Yes, I saw that the Blue Wire in the video you posted goes up into the Main Harness. From what I gathered from our past Trouble-Shooting discussion, it is the Blue Wire in the assembly that goes to the Grounding Neutral Switch. Since this Video Test shows that the Assembly is disconnected, the short in the Blue Neutral Switch Wire must be up into the Main Harness. It could be a short-to-Frame,...but I'll bet it is most likely to one of the Black/White Ground wires. Could also be affecting other wires also.

At this point, I'd be tracing that Blue Neutral Switch wire all the way back to the Gauge myself.

The Blue wire goes to the diode, it's part number 36611-38A10. Looking in the manual or wiring diagram doesn't really give me any indication on where to find it. My plan is to cut the blue wire coming out of the diode, splice in a new wire and then run that to the connector coming off the main harness that connects to the neutral switch and splice it back in there rather then cutting open the main harness to repair the original wire and potentially damaging other wires. I just need to locate the diode....

Are you sure this Blue Wire in the Main Harness is the one that goes to the Neutral Switch? It does seem to be a LIGHT Blue color.

Is the Blue Wire in the Assembly DARK Blue?...and does the Blue Assembly wire ( in the white connector ) connect to that Light Blue Harness wire?

[Acton67]

The Blue wire is also going into the main harness at the same spot. So two wires must be damaged for this issue to occur. The Blue wire and either the green or the black/white wire correct? Because the blue wire needs to get to ground through one of those wires?

Yes, I saw that the Blue Wire in the video you posted goes up into the Main Harness. From what I gathered from our past Trouble-Shooting discussion, it is the Blue Wire in the assembly that goes to the Grounding Neutral Switch. Since this Video Test shows that the Assembly is disconnected, the short in the Blue Neutral Switch Wire must be up into the Main Harness. It could be a short-to-Frame,...but I'll bet it is most likely to one of the Black/White Ground wires. Could also be affecting other wires also.

At this point, I'd be tracing that Blue Neutral Switch wire all the way back to the Gauge myself.

The Blue wire goes to the diode, it's part number 36611-38A10. Looking in the manual or wiring diagram doesn't really give me any indication on where to find it. My plan is to cut the blue wire coming out of the diode, splice in a new wire and then run that to the connector coming off the main harness that connects to the neutral switch and splice it back in there rather then cutting open the main harness to repair the original wire and potentially damaging other wires. I just need to locate the diode....

Are you sure this Blue Wire in the Main Harness is the one that goes to the Neutral Switch? It does seem to be a LIGHT Blue color.

Is the Blue Wire in the Assembly DARK Blue?...and does the Blue Assembly wire ( in the white connector ) connect to that Light Blue Harness wire?

Yeah it's the same wire. The wire coming off the main harness that connects to the oil pressure sensor is yellow/green is a little suspect but there's no other connectors to connect. The kickstand switch connector is a completely different style connector.

[Herb]

You should be able to use an ohm meter to find out which wire it is shorting to and which section is shorting.

[Acton67]

You should be able to use an ohm meter to find out which wire it is shorting to and which section is shorting.

I'm pretty confident it's the blue and black/white wires an inch or two up the Main Harness where the wires turn. The seat must have crunched them possibly. Out of curiosity how would I check this with an ohm meter, a continuity test or...?

[Herb]

A continuity test. disconnect the wires from both ends, read continuity between the 2 and wiggle them to see if you get continuity. BTW, an analog meter works best for this type of test because the digital meters do not react fast enough to a momentary short. the needle on an analog meter will jump as the wires make contact.

You are probably correct about the 2 because the B/W wire is a ground. You could probably disconnect the diode and put one meter lead on the blue wire on the connector and the other on a good ground and it would show the issue.

[Acton67]

Neutral light fixed! Made a bypass from the diode to the blue wire as discussed before. Case closed! Having a similar issue with the temp light too.

https://youtube.com/shorts/6903FPXOU5k?feature=share

[Designer]

Neutral light fixed! Made a bypass from the diode to the blue wire as discussed before. Case closed!

Terrific! You did it!

...... Having a similar issue with the temp light too.

That too, is a Grounding Switch. First, of course, is make absolutely sure you have enough oil and a clean filter. Then, since it is intermittent like that, I'd check the Connection at the Switch for looseness and cleanliness. Next, I'd pull the Switch and clean it out on the inside

https://youtube.com/shorts/6903FPXOU5k?feature=share

BTW,....is that a Cooling Air Vent I see in your Shoe?

[Acton67]

Neutral light fixed! Made a bypass from the diode to the blue wire as discussed before. Case closed!

Terrific! You did it!

...... Having a similar issue with the temp light too.

That too, is a Grounding Switch. First, of course, is make absolutely sure you have enough oil and a clean filter. Then, since it is intermittent like that, I'd check the Connection at the Switch for looseness and cleanliness. Next, I'd pull the Switch and clean it out on the inside

https://youtube.com/shorts/6903FPXOU5k?feature=share

BTW,....is that a Cooling Air Vent I see in your Shoe?

The temp switch is actually to the water cooling system. The oil switch is a different switch coming off the neutral switch that grounds out to the front of the oil pan and to the left of the oil filter. No problems with that switch thankfully.

Navigator was once again correct, wires were pinched entering the indicator panel. Switch is fixed now. Going to be doing the 2000rpm sync on my front carb tomorrow when I finally get a day off then it will be time to ride!!!

And yes that's definitely a cooling vent you see on my shoe, I like to keep my toes well ventilated.

[Designer]

Navigator was once again correct, wires were pinched entering the indicator panel. Switch is fixed now. Going to be doing the 2000rpm sync on my front carb tomorrow when I finally get a day off then it will be time to ride!!!

And yes that's definitely a cooling vent you see on my shoe, I like to keep my toes well ventilated.

So Bro! What The Happenings? Clue is all in on your Successes.

[Acton67]

Navigator was once again correct, wires were pinched entering the indicator panel. Switch is fixed now. Going to be doing the 2000rpm sync on my front carb tomorrow when I finally get a day off then it will be time to ride!!!

And yes that's definitely a cooling vent you see on my shoe, I like to keep my toes well ventilated.

So Bro! What The Happenings? Clue is all in on your Successes.

I'm getting a local company to replicate the oem decals on the side covers and tank. Otherwise I'm on the road and riding!



exponents copy and paste

[navigator]

WOOT!!!!