Few different issues

[Acton67]

As you guys know I've been doing a lot of work on my bike. Finally did the throttle cable line yesterday. Making the ferrule went alright but I made the sleeve a little long so the throttle was open a little bit even with the adjuster all the way in. Trimmed a little to much of the sleeve off so now the upper cable is a little loose even with the adjuster all the way out. Ordered a new kit for 32 bucks. Good news is the bike starts, so I reassembled the carbs right and the electrical system is good too.

I reverse bled the clutch and front brake lines. Think I didn't do it right because both are soft. Used a piston syringe with clear tubing to push the dot4 fluid up from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder on both lines. Not sure if I should just do this again or buy a special tool or do it the old fashion way. I'm also concerned that I may be opening up the nipple to much allowing air into the lines that way. If I turn the nipple 20-30 degrees open once it's super hard to push fluid into the slave cylinders with the piston syringe. If I turn the nipple twice I'm able to push fluid in but I'm concerned that I'm allowing air in at that point.

My clutch was giving me issues last fall. Was giving me problems shifting gears. I figured at the time it was because I hadn't primed the clutch line right prior to that. Now with the neutral light on the bike acts like it's in gear and if I let off the clutch handle it starts to roll forward and the rpms go down like I'm letting off the clutch in first gear. Tomorrow I will take the bike off the lift table and see if the bike really is in first or neutral without the clutch handle pulled in. Can this problem be contributed to air in the line?

Also with running the extensions on the handlebar controls and running new clutch and throttle cables I'm having trouble laying all the wires, cables etc so that the gas tank sits on the bike as low as before. Not sure if anyone has a routing diagram on the 93 vs800. It's not in the Clymer manual.

Bought tc bros bars because they're affordable. Attached is my tc bros mini apes I bought 2 year ago. Granted the bike was stored outside and was exposed to much more moisture but for whatever reason where the controls where mounted to the bars I got significant rust. Any tips on how to avoid this with the new bars? Was thinking of wrapping electrical tape on the bars where the controls and bars meet to prevent this issue but figured there might be a better way.

Also I started to unscrew the small cover to the lower right of the cover of the clutch slave cylinder cover, wasnt paying attention. Oil(?) started leaking out of one of the bolt holes, quickly torqued the bolt back down when I realized my mistake. Planning on doing an oil change after I figure out all these issues. Anyone know what this cover is for?

[Designer]

If I may of help with the Hydraulics. Reverse Bleed method has the inherent issue of driving the air UP,...where it gets trapped in the Banjo Fittings.

A method I have been always successful with in dealing with that caused problem is found here.
http://intruders-alert.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=4

This will take all the Micro bubbles out,....and do so right away,...so you can be Riding instead of wanting to Ride.

[navigator]

For the routing and gas tank seating issue:



The 12 wire plug on the left is probably the issue. That connector belongs under the front snorkel. There is/was a small bracket bolted under there that needs to be removed to access/remove the front air filter. The connector slides onto that bracket. Then replace the snorkel from the carb to the filter.
What are the white wires crossing the frame?
They may be an issue. Everything is supposed to pass through the tank tunnel.

Also the spring covered fuel line should be in the tunnel, not over the frame.
IIRC it passes over the rear carb diaphragm cover and underneath the black bracket near the rear tank mount, and lays on the rear valve cover.


The cover to the rear of the clutch slave cylinder is where your water pump is located. You possibly leaked water...or oil if that bolt passes into the oil cavity.
Probably water though.

[Herb]

Not sure of what the cover is that you are talking about unless it is the cover over the shifter assembly.

I have a PDF of the Suzuki shop manual for the 86-98 700/750/800 and there are wire routing diagrams for a bunch of different years.

PM me your email and I will send you a copy.

[Acton67]

If I may of help with the Hydraulics. Reverse Bleed method has the inherent issue of driving the air UP,...where it gets trapped in the Banjo Fittings.

A method I have been always successful with in dealing with that caused problem is found here.
http://intruders-alert.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=4

This will take all the Micro bubbles out,....and do so right away,...so you can be Riding instead of wanting to Ride.

I'll give that a shot. Gonna work on the bike tomorrow. Thanks for the advice, will let you know how it works.

For the routing and gas tank seating issue:



The 12 wire plug on the left is probably the issue. That connector belongs under the front snorkel. There is/was a small bracket bolted under there that needs to be removed to access/remove the front air filter. The connector slides onto that bracket. Then replace the snorkel from the carb to the filter.
What are the white wires crossing the frame?
They may be an issue. Everything is supposed to pass through the tank tunnel.

Also the spring covered fuel line should be in the tunnel, not over the frame.
IIRC it passes over the rear carb diaphragm cover and underneath the black bracket near the rear tank mount, and lays on the rear valve cover.


The cover to the rear of the clutch slave cylinder is where your water pump is located. You possibly leaked water...or oil if that bolt passes into the oil cavity.
Probably water though.

Alright, the front snorkel isn't bad to remove and replace. Replacing the rear one was a nightmare. I do see a bracket there.

The white wires are to the aftermarket horn relay I installed for the bigger horn I have. The stock one sucked.

I will reroute the fuel line as well.

Anyone have any advice on the issue with the bars? Thanks.

[hillsy]

Paint looks good BTW


With the reverse bleeding its a good idea to wrap some teflon / plumbers tape around the threads of the bleed nipple so you can push and pull the fluid with the syringe.

You can push pull the same fluid as many times as you like as long as you are not pulling the MC dry. The tape stops air getting past the threads when you are pulling the fluid.

Its not always the easiest thing to get right but once you get a feel for it you wont use anything else.

One other thing - if you have a little bit of air in the caliper then you need to pull that out - pushing the fluid wont get it.

[Designer]

Yes,...pulling the fluid works just as good.

And a Mity Vac makes the job much easier to master and be successful... and,...to control the fluids and keep clean.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334227884947?h ... Swp09hmspz

Worth every penny,...and more.

[hillsy]

Sure you could use a Mity Vac or some other vacuum bleeder but they only do half the job a syringe does.

[navigator]

For the rust on the bars, probably just cheap paint.
If you got chrome ones, they should hold up.
If you got painted ones, I'm not sure what to do.

[Acton67]

Paint looks good BTW


With the reverse bleeding its a good idea to wrap some teflon / plumbers tape around the threads of the bleed nipple so you can push and pull the fluid with the syringe.

You can push pull the same fluid as many times as you like as long as you are not pulling the MC dry. The tape stops air getting past the threads when you are pulling the fluid.

Its not always the easiest thing to get right but once you get a feel for it you wont use anything else.

One other thing - if you have a little bit of air in the caliper then you need to pull that out - pushing the fluid wont get it.

Wow, the Teflon tape idea is really good, also with pulling the fluid do I need to squeeze the master cylinder handle as well? Didn't think about pulling fluid down with the syringe, seems like the obvious thing to do now

For the rust on the bars, probably just cheap paint.
If you got chrome ones, they should hold up.
If you got painted ones, I'm not sure what to do.

Maybe I should sand the new bars down and apply some sort of abrasive resistant paint? Like linex?



Might be a little overkill, anyone have any other thoughts?

[hillsy]

Wow, the Teflon tape idea is really good, also with pulling the fluid do I need to squeeze the master cylinder handle as well? Didn't think about pulling fluid down with the syringe, seems like the obvious thing to do now

In the same way you can push the fluid up the lines - you can draw down with the syringe without having to squeeze the lever.

The beauty of the syringe is that you can just keep on going as long as you want with the push / pull bleed but not waste a stack of fluid like you would with a Mity Vac.

[navigator]

Linex will build up the diameter a bit.
You could use Epoxy paint, or powder coat as well...lots of options.

[hillsy]

Also I started to unscrew the small cover to the lower right of the cover of the clutch slave cylinder cover, wasnt paying attention. Oil(?) started leaking out of one of the bolt holes, quickly torqued the bolt back down when I realized my mistake. Planning on doing an oil change after I figure out all these issues. Anyone know what this cover is for?

Neutral switch, perhaps?

Look a bit like this?

[Designer]

Wow, the Teflon tape idea is really good, also with pulling the fluid do I need to squeeze the master cylinder handle as well? Didn't think about pulling fluid down with the syringe, seems like the obvious thing to do now

From my experience, you shouldn't need to squeeze the lever to perform the bleeding. It doesn't hurt,...but the fluid flows downward by gravity very well, better yet when pulled.
Being that there is a Banjo Fitting at the "Top" of the system,...you will benefit from doing the Method I posted for you after you are done bleeding.

And the Mity Vac pulls the fluid best. Why is because it is a never-ending source of "pull". You don't need to stop to disconnect it and "recharge" the pulling force, as you would with a syringe. All need do is just pump the lever, and ...voila!....more pulling. When well done, you won't need to empty the "cup" either.

It is Best to use a tool Specially Designed for the task at hand,.....than to use a substitute one that is Designed for use for another.

Make sense?

[hillsy]

Mity Vacs are good for cars, not so much for smaller systems like bikes.

But use whatever you feel comfortable with.

If all else fails you can always fall back on conventional bleeding

[Designer]

So sorry,...Not true,...Mity Vacs work GREAT on motorcycles.

The smaller amounts of fluid that fills the smaller Hydraulic Systems of a motorcycle coincide very well with the capacity of the "cup" on the Mity Vac.

[navigator]

Also I started to unscrew the small cover to the lower right of the cover of the clutch slave cylinder cover, wasnt paying attention. Oil(?) started leaking out of one of the bolt holes, quickly torqued the bolt back down when I realized my mistake. Planning on doing an oil change after I figure out all these issues. Anyone know what this cover is for?

Neutral switch, perhaps?

Look a bit like this?

Nope.
The cover to the rear of the clutch slave cylinder is where your water pump is located.

[hillsy]

So sorry,...Not true,...Mity Vacs work GREAT on motorcycles.

The smaller amounts of fluid that fills the smaller Hydraulic Systems of a motorcycle coincide very well with the capacity of the "cup" on the Mity Vac.

Sure they'll work - but why spend $70 - $80 on a Mity Vac when you can get a syringe and a piece of hose for about $3? Mity Vac doesn't reverse bleed either.

Mity Vac container is 135ml - designed for cars and too big for bikes. You will not have more than 100ml in a bike brake system in total - most reservoirs are less than 50ml. Best syringe size is around 50-60ml so you'll get a good pressure and won't accidently pull any air in.

But whatever you feel comfortable using will obviously be the best.

[Designer]

So sorry,...Not true,...Mity Vacs work GREAT on motorcycles.The smaller amounts of fluid that fills the smaller Hydraulic Systems of a motorcycle coincide very well with the capacity of the "cup" on the Mity Vac.

Sure they'll work - but why spend $70 - $80 on a Mity Vac when you can get a syringe and a piece of hose for about $3? Mity Vac doesn't reverse bleed either.

Being cheap is not the correct way.
One can make work a Butter Knife as a screw driver too,.......but isn't it better to use a DESIGNED for the job?

Answer: of course

Since you obsess over price,....apparently you are overlooking the Link I gave to acton67 a while back;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334227884947?h ... Swp09hmspz

At less than Half the price you claim,.....and when on considers the time, hassle and mess it saves,.....worth every penny.

[hillsy]

Being cheap is not the correct way.

It's not so much about being cheap (that's just a bonus) - it's also about versatility.

A syringe does both push / pull bleeding - Mity Vac only pulls. Which kinda sucks

Anyway - argue all you like - I've been using syringes for over 20 years and they are the best IMO. Cheap, does both push / pull bleeding, doesn't waste fluid. There's not much there not to like.