Cleaning carbs

[Acton67]

I already had to adjust the throttle cable once on the front carb because the throttle body wasn't completely closed at idle, so I had to back out the Adjusting Barrel so the cable in the splitter housing would be long enough to allow the throttle to close completely. Based on the results in the video the front carb is opening after the rear carb right? So I must have gone to far in the other direction so I need to tighten the Adjusting Barrel right? The idle sync also effects how much slack the throttle cables have at idle, there's probable more slack in the front cable for that reason too I guess.

Yes, you pretty much have it figured out.

Now you need to "Fine Tune" the Front cable so it is in perfect Synchronization with the Rear.....at 2000RPM, of course.

Should I also check for vacuum leaks? The boots are on there tight and the "bump" on the carb bodies is in the notch on both boots. From what I've heard I can spray starting fluid on the joining surfaces of the carbs and boots and see if there's a change in RPMs that would indicate a leak, right?

Yes, that will do it for Vacuum Leak checking.

Thanks for all the help designer, you're a class act! I will upload another video with the final results. Sometime next week probably. Working through the next 4 days, love working 4 12s!!!

[navigator]

As has been stated.
You already adjusted the rear (sync) cable for idle.
You need to adjust the front cable at the front carb (throttle cable) to balance the vacuums at 2000 rpm.
Forget about the splitter, you just need to adjust the forward cable on the front carb. when doing so you are changing the sheath length to match the rear throttle cable, which has no adjustment.

[Acton67]

As has been stated.
You already adjusted the rear (sync) cable for idle.
You need to adjust the front cable at the front carb (throttle cable) to balance the vacuums at 2000 rpm.
Forget about the splitter, you just need to adjust the forward cable on the front carb. when doing so you are changing the sheath length to match the rear throttle cable, which has no adjustment.

My carbs seem to have adjusting barrels on both the front and rear carbs. These are what I'm adjusting, not something else entirely right?

[navigator]

Yes, just use the adjusting barrels on the front carb.
Forward one for throttle sync (2000 rpm)
Rearward one for idle sync.

Initial adjustments are to get both throttle plates to open at the same time...watch the rear with one hand on the front.
Don't do any further adjustments on the rear carb.

[Acton67]

Yes, just use the adjusting barrels on the front carb.
Forward one for throttle sync (2000 rpm)
Rearward one for idle sync.

Initial adjustments are to get both throttle plates to open at the same time...watch the rear with one hand on the front.
Don't do any further adjustments on the rear carb.

I used the adjusting barrel on the sync cable on the front carb for the idle sync. You can see in the picture that there are 3 adjusting barrel. I will use the Adjusting Barrel on the front though.

Was the adjusting barrel on the rear throttle cable something added by a previous owner maybe?

[Designer]

Yes, just use the adjusting barrels on the front carb. Forward one for throttle sync (2000 rpm)Rearward one for idle sync. Initial adjustments are to get both throttle plates to open at the same time...watch the rear with one hand on the front. Don't do any further adjustments on the rear carb.

Do what Navigator says.

I used the adjusting barrel on the sync cable on the front carb for the idle sync.

Good!...kinda cuz,...that's the correct one.

You can see in the picture that there are 3 adjusting barrel. I will use the Adjusting Barrel on the front though.

Good Thinking. That one is THE Most Goodest One because it is far easier to turn wrenches on.

...Was the adjusting barrel on the rear throttle cable something added by a previous owner maybe?

I kinda doubt it. My experiences are mostly with 1400's, so I cannot sat for sure. I've always done the 2000 RPM sync on both the 800 and 1400 using the Front Carb Adjusting Barrel and have had 100% success.

[Acton67]

when doing so you are changing the sheath length to match the rear throttle cable, which has no adjustment.

I'm trying to clarify what he means here because I've heard from many sources that the rear carb on a vs800 has no throttle cable adjustment but mine does have an adjustment barrel.

Other then that I understand what navigator and you instructed. Sorry if I'm wording my questions in a confusing way.

[Designer]

when doing so you are changing the sheath length to match the rear throttle cable, which has no adjustment.

I'm trying to clarify what he means here because I've heard from many sources that the rear carb on a vs800 has no throttle cable adjustment but mine does have an adjustment barrel.

When I said there is not a Rear Carb Adjusting Barrel, I might have not recalled all my Experiences correctly. I know that the 1400 does not.
Anyways, the Most Bestest and Most Goodest Adjusting Barrel to use the the 2000 RPM Sync is,.......the envelope please,......(paper ripping sounds)......AT THE FRONT CARB!

Yaaayy!

[Acton67]

Yes, just use the adjusting barrels on the front carb.
Forward one for throttle sync (2000 rpm)
Rearward one for idle sync.

I know it may seem obvious to you guys what is being instructed but when I was told earlier that there was no adjustment on the rear carb (which I've also heard on Youtube) and then when he made this statement above I needed to clarify because in my case "the rearward one" could refer to the adjustment Barrel on the rear carb or the adjustment Barrel on the forward carb that is to the rear. It's obvious which adjustment barrel is for the sync cable but I wanted to clarify because you guys are in the know, not me. I'm not trying to mock anyone here, just want to be clear. And no I'm not gonna add a paper ripping sound for effect.

[navigator]

Yes, just use the adjusting barrels on the front carb.
Forward one for throttle sync (2000 rpm)
Rearward one for idle sync.

I know it may seem obvious to you guys what is being instructed but when I was told earlier that there was no adjustment on the rear carb (which I've also heard on Youtube) and then when he made this statement above I needed to clarify because in my case "the rearward one" could refer to the adjustment Barrel on the rear carb or the adjustment Barrel on the forward carb that is to the rear. It's obvious which adjustment barrel is for the sync cable but I wanted to clarify because you guys are in the know, not me. I'm not trying to mock anyone here, just want to be clear. And no I'm not gonna add a paper ripping sound for effect.

I meant this one:
or the adjustment Barrel on the forward carb that is to the rear.

[Acton67]

So I've put about 100 miles on the bike since cleaning the carbs and then yesterday the rear cylinder died like there was debris in the idle jet passageway again.

Just to reiterate at this point Ive replaced the idle and main jets with new jets of the same size. I threw in a new carb kit, including replacing the filters underneath the float needle. Removed the Welch plugs covering the idle mixture screws and cleaned out those passageways with carb cleaner and compressed air. This was all after I cleaned them with the ultrasonic cleaner.

Apparently this is a common issue with the intruders, I've seen multiple videos on YouTube describing this same problem with the 800/1400s. A mechanic that I called today has a 1400 in his shop with the same issue he can't figure out.



This is exactly what happened to me yesterday except that I was able to limp home on the front cylinder. I'm going to replace the fuel pump, but if the fuel pump was the issue I'd think it would be the front cylinder that died first right?

I'm so tired of wrenching on this bike. Now I'm picking up a travel assignment on nights 3hrs away as a second job; won't be home most of the week to work on this thing..

[Herb]

The shape of these tanks makes it almost impossible to clean them well and they hold water in the lower corners.

[Acton67]

The shape of these tanks makes it almost impossible to clean them well and they hold water in the lower corners.

But even if there's sediment in the tank how does it get past the mesh filter on the petcock?

[hillsy]

Every other carbd bike with a fuel pump runs an inline paper element fuel filter before the fuel pump. Suzuki didn't put one on the 1400 - but they did on the 1500.

It's a really good idea.

[Herb]

The shape of these tanks makes it almost impossible to clean them well and they hold water in the lower corners.

But even if there's sediment in the tank how does it get past the mesh filter on the petcock?

It is not a very small mesh. There is also the posibility that either the hoses or even the fuel pump are starting to deteriorate.

What color are the particles you found?

[Acton67]

The shape of these tanks makes it almost impossible to clean them well and they hold water in the lower corners.

But even if there's sediment in the tank how does it get past the mesh filter on the petcock?

It is not a very small mesh. There is also the posibility that either the hoses or even the fuel pump are starting to deteriorate.

What color are the particles you found?

The debris was grey, saw it sitting in the bottom of the bowl. Got two new clear fuel lines today, put inline glass fuel filters before and after the fuel pump. Sprayed out the fuel pump with carb cleaner and compressed air. Removed the main and pilot jets and idle mixture screws and cleaned out the main jets and idle jet circuits with carb cleaner and compressed air. Replaced the filter underneath the float needle and cleaned out the fuel inlet with carb cleaner and compressed air as well.

Took a 90 minute 40 mile ride today and the bike seems to run fine again except when it had one brief episode where it started bogging down and died. Tried restarting it and the issue resolved after a minute. It ran fine after that like nothing happened. It seems to idle fine now and I'm able to accelerate the bike through to wot without any issues. I suspect I'm going to get another hundred miles down the road then run into the same issue, especially since I had that brief episode I described above. Same thing happened to the guy whose vlog I linked to above. Next step is replacing the fuel pump although it works fine...

[hillsy]

put inline glass fuel filters before and after the fuel pump.

Any filter is better than none....but the best ones are the paper element filters. You would only need one before the fuel pump if you have replaced all the hoses.

[navigator]

As mentioned, perhaps your fuel lines are disintegrating, after the filters.

[Designer]

The debris was grey, saw it sitting in the bottom of the bowl.

Being a Grey color, that kinda-sorta points to to what both Navigator and Herb had said.

There is also the possibility that either the hoses or even the fuel pump are starting to deteriorate. What color are the particles you found?

[Herb]

The grey kind of stumps me... If it were black I would say hoses, if it were red I would say rust, but the grey is strange.

Has the tank ever been coated inside? I have seen the sealants start coming apart but the ones I have seen were more white than grey.