Soft Clutch

[Acton67]

Hey guys, been posting on the forums a lot this year. Last time it was the brakes and whatever maintenance I could think of to prevent anymore problems this year, that was back in August. You guys really helped me out then!

Now it's the clutch. Tore my carport down as I'm moving into a new house with a 2 bay garage next month. Bikes been sitting out in the rain for a few weeks and I haven't been able to ride as much since I'm pulling.a lot of overtime at work in anticipation of this move. Last few times I went out for a ride I noticed the bike was stuck in first gear before starting it even with the clutch pulled in. I'd have to rock it back and forth to "break it loose", after that no problems.

Today I noticed the clutch was super soft and I'd have to squeeze the clutch as hard as I could to shift, and even then I'd have a hard time shifting. Last time I rode before this was 2 weeks ago. Checked the master cylinder and there seems to be fluid in there. Any ideas on what's going on? Do I need to change the fluid? I just had a new motor installed last spring with fresh clutch fluid....

[Herb]

Bleed the clutch. Depending on how old the fluid is you may want to replace all of the fluid. Brake fluid absorbs water and expands and contracts with weather changes. It also will not compress the same as the fluid.

I usually change out the clutch and brake fluids every fall to prevent this kind of problem.

If the problem persists the system may be sucking air somewhere but try the bleed/fluid replacement first.

Let us know what happens.

Personally, I hate the hyd clutches and think they are an expensive and PITA replacement for the cable clutchs.

My GS1100 had a LOT more power than my VS1400 and had a cable clutch that was not any harder to pull than the one on my 1400 and it never slipped.

[navigator]

That fluid is pretty contaminated. When it absorbs water it turns brown....it should be clear.
It is also low, it should be almost to the top of the window boss, about a quarter inch from the top.
Level up the bike, suck the old fluid out with a turkey baster and refill with fresh DOT 4.
then bleed the clutch, with the cover on, to clear the line.
refill when done.
COVER your paint while filling and bleeding, brake fluid eats paint.

[Designer]

To add to the Good Advice from both Herb and Navigator, I would like to suggest you wipe clean the Master Cylinder Reservoir when you take out all the old, brown fluid. I use a Q-tip to get into the corners,..making sure all traces of Brown fluid stuff are out. Chances are fairly good that little-to-none of this Water-contaminated Hydraulic Fluid have gone very far into the Hose.

By doing all this, you will save yourself some Time/New Fluid as you Bleed in the New Fluid, using it as a "flush" of the System.

Do take a close look at the condition of the Metal at the top of the Reservoir ( that the Rubber Seal of the Reservoir Cap seals against).
I kinda looks like there might be some Dirt/Corrosion/Oxidation there. If so, that could compromise the Seal against Water Intrusion...and that might be the reason you experienced so much Water coming in in such short a time outside. And do check the Rubber Seal for any holes also.

[hillsy]

I just had a new motor installed last spring with fresh clutch fluid....

Did you put the fresh fluid in yourself at the time? Was the reservoir stained brown on the insides like in your pic or is this recent?

Also make sure there is no corrosion underneath the lid (between the lid and diaphragm). If this builds up it can block the breather slot at the edge of the lid and then the reservoir can end up running in a vacuum and not working properly. And check the diaphragm for any holes, nicks, tears, etc. Not sure if Suzuki still sells new ones of these but it's a good idea if your one looks perished in any way.

[Acton67]

The clutch fluid was replaced by the mechanic who installed the new engine this past spring. I'm going to bleed the clutch tomorrow and see what happens. This will be my first time doing it. I'm considering buying a new clutch master cylinder too, they're like $50-$75 bucks on ebay which isn't too bad.

I was looking for videos on youtube regarding the process of bleeding the clutch on this bike and I ran across this video. If I'm not allowed to link youtube videos on this forum just let me know, sorry if I'm breaking any rules. Apparently drilling out the return hole on the clutch master cylinder with a 1/16ths" drill bit can help boost performance by allowing for better return flow and preventing the plates from slipping according to this guy. What do you guys think? I'm thinking of experimenting with it since I'm going to probably buy a new master cylinder anyway.

https://youtu.be/_dGwA4mVCio

[Designer]

The clutch fluid was replaced by the mechanic who installed the new engine this past spring.

I am assuming that the reservoir was clean and did not have any brown staining/fluid in it at that time. It is quite unlikely that you would have any issues of corrosion underneath the lid (between the lid and diaphragm) as the Cap is Chrome Plated and it hasn't been that long that the Bike was outside in the Rainy weather..

I'm going to bleed the clutch tomorrow and see what happens. This will be my first time doing it. I'm considering buying a new clutch master cylinder too, they're like $50-$75 bucks on ebay which isn't too bad.

I hope you don't need to have that expense. Please do, clean up the corrosion/dirt I see around the top lip of the reservoir. This will help ensure a Good Seal when done to prevent Water Intrusion.

I was looking for videos on youtube regarding the process of bleeding the clutch on this bike and I ran across this video. If I'm not allowed to link youtube videos on this forum just let me know, sorry if I'm breaking any rules. Apparently drilling out the return hole on the clutch master cylinder with a 1/16ths" drill bit can help boost performance by allowing for better return flow and preventing the plates from slipping according to this guy. What do you guys think? I'm thinking of experimenting with it since I'm going to probably buy a new master cylinder anyway.

I cannot back up much what this Guy has said. Firstly, apparently he had never found the Original Intruder Alert Board. Because,... I guarantee you,...had he? He would have read how the 700/750/800 Intruder Riders were happy with the Barnett HD aftermarket Springs. I know so, because that is why I did not create my High Performance Clutch Springs for that Model Intruder. I did for the 1400/1500, but not that 800.

And,...I do not think the drilling out the Pressure Relief Hole is the answer either. Why is because that is almost certainly NOT the issue of slippage.. Weak Springs are virtually always. Yes, the hole can get blocked by Dirt/Crud, but CLEANING is the answer there.

Do you have a Hydraulic Bleeding Pump?...like a Mity Vac?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mityvac-MV80 ... t/23209395

Worth their weight in gold,..IMHO.

.

[Acton67]

He would have read how the 700/750/800 Intruder Riders were happy with the Barnett HD aftermarket Springs

Where can I find those? May install a set this winter. Wish I was around when the old boards where up, I just started riding 2 years ago. Love my bike. My buddies keep telling me to "upgrade" to a sportster, I don't think so.

Do you have a Hydraulic Bleeding Pump?...like a Mity Vac?

Yep, just picked this up for $30. Went to Autozone to buy some DOT 4 break fluid and the guy at the counter said he had this in his truck new and would sell it to me for $30 cash since he didn't need it. The one in the store was $45. Basically I can use this to suck all the old brake fluid out of the line and to re-prime the line with the fresh fluid without having to pump the clutch hand and open/close the bleeder valve a hundred times right?

[Designer]

He would have read how the 700/750/800 Intruder Riders were happy with the Barnett HD aftermarket Springs

Where can I find those? May install a set this winter.

I'd check the Barnett Website first,...then do a search online to compare pricing.

Wish I was around when the old boards where up, I just started riding 2 years ago. Love my bike.

You'd have LOVED it. There was some MIGHTY FINE customizing and VERY experienced Help over there. Sadly, all gone now.

My buddies keep telling me to "upgrade" to a sportster, I don't think so.

You are correct. A sportster is not an "upgrade"
When you get your's going well,...you'll see.

Do you have a Hydraulic Bleeding Pump?...like a Mity Vac?

Yep, just picked this up for $30. Went to Autozone to buy some DOT 4 break fluid and the guy at the counter said he had this in his truck new and would sell it to me for $30 cash since he didn't need it. The one in the store was $45. Basically I can use this to suck all the old brake fluid out of the line and to re-prime the line with the fresh fluid without having to pump the clutch hand and open/close the bleeder valve a hundred times right?

That'll do juuuuust fine!

[navigator]

Sorry you paid $30, but it will work fine.
Either wrap the threads of the bleeder with teflon tape...or better yet, reverse bleed by pushing fluid through the bleeder up to the master cylinder. This pushes air out of the hose. Put a paper towel in the master cylinder, pressure through that small return hole will send fluid as high as your ceiling.
Also placing the front tire on a block of wood to raise the front helps.

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-ble ... ke+bleeder

Not everything on youtube is true.
I would advise against drilling the return hole.

[hillsy]

The return hole is small because the piston seal travels over it in operation. With a larger hole you risk the seal being damaged and then the MC wont work properly.

Drilling it out also risks leaving a burr on the inside of the bore which could also tear the seal.

There's no other reason why that wouldnt work though. But the risks are kinda not worth it for the reasons above.

[Acton67]

Bleeding the clutch fixed the issue. I've got a cheap cover for the bike now too to keep it dry. Unfortunately the seller has pushed closing out further so its gonna be another few weeks before I move into the new house. Thanks again guys.

[Designer]

Bleeding the clutch fixed the issue. I've got a cheap cover for the bike now too to keep it dry. Unfortunately the seller has pushed closing out further so its gonna be another few weeks before I move into the new house. Thanks again guys.

Smart move getting a cover. That purchase will pay for itself many times over in fewer Repairs and Easier/Less often Maintenance .

Looking forwards to hearing about your Moving In! Do tell us,...please.

[sgtcall]

Just a note on using a cover.

In Germany I covered my bike but would take the cover off for a couple of hours on sunny days even in winter. My neighbor left his covered all winter and never even looked at it. The next spring he had rust all over the place, I had none. If you cover it moisture will build under the cover so make sure you let it air out when you can.

[Designer]

Just a note on using a cover.
In Germany I covered my bike but would take the cover off for a couple of hours on sunny days even in winter. My neighbor left his covered all winter and never even looked at it. The next spring he had rust all over the place, I had none. If you cover it moisture will build under the cover so make sure you let it air out when you can.

Good Thinking there! My Dowco Guardian Weatherall cover has an Air Vent at the top, (and heat resistant material at the bottom) ...so this never crossed my mind.

Condensation/Rust/Corrosion/Increased Oxidation occurs Uncovered or Covered-non-vented .
Thank You for posting this!

One might say that you,...."Got Us Covered"..

[hillsy]

I will never forget looking at one of these a few years back that had been stored outside under a tarpaulin for 5 years:



EVERY piece of chrome was rusted....but most disappointingly the engine was locked solid. It was total junk and such a waste. Only had 15K on the clock as well....