New Shocks?

[Acton67]

Hey guys before I get into it I just want to thank everyone for all the advice I've gotten so far on these forums. Last month I went on a long distance trip up the ADKs and it went great. No big problems with the bike. Did a new paint job on the bike before I left and did pretty well. Had to strip the front fender and the tank twice to get the paint job right but I learned a lot in the process and will definitely be able to apply what I learned moving forward. Going to take off the back fender this winter and repaint that, also going to touch up the clear coat on my tank. Closing on a house in October and will have a 2 car detached garage to work on the bike in the winter in! Its going to be great not having to work on the bike in a gravel driveway all the time or having to worry about the rain.

Anyway as I've explained in a few previous threads I've done a lot of work/have had a lot of work done on my 92' VS 800. I threw a new motor in it this spring with 350miles on it, the connecting rod on the front cylinder blew last year. I'm going to skip the list on all I've done to this bike but just about the only thing I haven't touched on this bike since I picked it up for $450 are the brakes and suspension. The pads on the front brakes are done and I'm replacing those this weekend. Looked in the clymer manual and a how to video online and that job seems pretty straight forward. The forks seems to be alright and aren't bottoming out, I was considering replacing them a few months back because of two fender bolts that broke off in the right fork but I was able to avoid doing that. I think I need to replace the back shocks though. I did bottom out a few times on my trip, one time it caught the license plate and screwed it up. I'm thinking I need longer shocks then what are stock, I'm 6'1" and 270lbs. Anyone have any suggestions on what brand I should look into, and what length?

Thanks!

[Designer]

First may I ask, were those Shocks put up on maximum pre-load?

[navigator]

You could try twisting the bottom to up the preload first.
The stock shocks really don't last very long.
I would suggest replacing them with stock length Progressive brand shocks.
Replace them one side at a time, then set the preload to the third notch to start.
Adjust from there depending on the weight loaded on the bike.

[Acton67]

I bought the bike with the shocks on them, haven't readjusted them or done anything to them yet. Watched a few videos on YouTube about how to install new shocks on harley davidson bikes and it didn't mention anything about setting the preload. I tried searching on how to install them on a vs800 and couldn't find anything. What is the length of the stock shocks exactly? I'll have to do more research on how to set preload.

[Designer]

As a way that might save your Hard-Earned $$$,... May I suggest you first Turn Up the Spring Preload on the shocks.

That very often does The Trick for what you describe as your needs.

I have the Suzuki Owners Manual and will tomorrow see if it has How-To pictures on how you do it.

By any chance,.....did your Intruder come with the Factory Tool Kit?

[hillsy]

You have to turn the lower part of the shock to adjust the preload on the spring. See the hole in the bottom chrome cover? You can stick a screwdriver in there (or a 'C' spanner) and turn to adjust. You'll find it easier if you can take the weight off the wheel (IE: jack the bike up).

[Acton67]

As a way that might save your Hard-Earned $$$,... May I suggest you first Turn Up the Spring Preload on the shocks.

That very often does The Trick for what you describe as your needs.

I have the Suzuki Owners Manual and will tomorrow see if it has How-To pictures on how you do it.

By any chance,.....did your Intruder come with the Factory Tool Kit?

I actually bought the factory toolkit off of ebay separately.

[Designer]

I actually bought the factory toolkit off of ebay separately.

Good! There's a good likelihood the Correct Tool to adjust the Preload is in there. It is a Spanner Wrench.

With no one on the Bike, it is quite easy to turn up the Preload. Do make sure you have done it equally on both Left & Right Shocks.

Here's the Page from the Factory Suzuki Owners Manual;




I hope this helps.

[navigator]

Look upwards underneath the lower chrome cover, you can see the steps described in the manual to determine your current setting.

[Acton67]

So I adjusted the shocks and changed the brake pads on my bike successfully last weekend. Unfortunately my toolkit didn't come with a spanner wrench, but through further research on these forums I was able to adjust them by hand after jacking the back wheel off the ground. The shocks where not on equal settings. One was on the highest setting, the other on the lowest. I adjusted the one on the lowest to the highest to raise the back fender up. I noticed that unlike the other shock, I was able to keep turning it in the same direction and it would go back down to the lowest setting. Not sure if that means it's failing and needs to be replaced but I've been on several rides since and it's held.

Regarding the brake pad change; that project was fairly easy and straight forward but when I saw what the old pads looked like let's just say I was a little shocked!


upload image

[hillsy]

Yay for maintenance

How is the disc looking?

Looks like there was some metal on metal action there

[Acton67]

The disk looks fine. I noticed the front break was starting to stick which is what prompted me to change the pads. I bought this bike back in 2020, I've had it in the shop at least 3-4 times since then. I've asked these shops on multiple occasions what maintenance should be done on the bike and if they thought the brakes needed to be done. I was concerned about stuff like this, especially when I first bought the bike and had the shop check the bike top to bottom. Stuff like this just goes to show you cant count on anyone else to do the job right. Looking at these pads they've definitely been on there for many years, this should have been done when I first bought the bike. Unfortunately this is my first bike and I'm learning as I go.

I definitely want the forks checked out this winter, also the radiator and whatever other general maintenance has been done. I know there is oil that has to be replaced every so often in the drive shaft too right? The engine itself is in good shape and I changed the oil on it myself for the first time 3 weeks ago, and I know how many miles are on it since its a new engine I had installed this spring but all the other stuff on the bike I have no clue as to when it was last serviced. I've had the radiator fluid checked and the drive shaft oil checked and I was told they where "good", but I was told the brakes where "good" too and obviously they weren't. There aren't many bike shops in my area and they take forever to service bikes. Usually mine is placed on the back burner because it isn't a new bike too. What do you guys think I should look into myself this winter after the riding season is over? Hoping to avoid anymore problems before they happen at this point!

[Herb]

Every time I work on the brakes or the wheels I use PB Blaster around the brake pucks and rune them all the way in and all the way out until they push in easily.

The pucks have a tendency to build corrosion and stick in the out position which will wear the brake pads out very quickly.

I am not sure about the 800 but the 1400, up through 2004, that i know of come with a metal plate that goes between the puck and the pad. It is supposed to help stop brake squeal and keep the pads aligned to the disk properly. This plate is powder coated and after a few years, depending on the climate, corrosion will start under it and bubble the coating. This has a tendency to push the pad too far into the cylinder which causes the brake to need pumping to make it work. At the same time, it holds the pad against the disk. If yours has them, throw them away before they cause you trouble.

[navigator]

As Herb says, throw away the stock metal shims behind the pads.
Brake shims are supposed to keep the brakes from squeaking, you don't really need them, but if your brakes squeak I'd suggest SBS brake shims.
They are self adhesive to stick to the backside of the pad and work very well. One package will do 2 to 3 brake jobs.

https://www.directcycleparts.com/appare ... iMQAvD_BwE

Changing the rear gear lube is cheap and easy, just drain and refill.
Clean the crud off of the magnet on the drain plug.
With the bike vertical, fill with 80w90 hypoid gear oil until it reaches the fill hole.
Capacity is 8 or 10 ounces, so a quart will last you forever.

Yearly, change the brake fluid in the brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder.
Get the cylinders level before removing the top cover, protect your paint from spills.
Suck the old fluid out with a turkey baster and fill with DOT4 brake fliud, replace the covers and bleed some out to flush the line, then top off accordingly.

Changing the fork oil is easy as well.
Follow the service manual instructions.
Remove the entire fork and pour the oil out.
Add a little ATF and pump the forks to flush them, pour that out and refill with 15w fork oil to the prescribed level with shock compressed. Mark your turkey baster for the level, and suck out excess until each shock has the same amount.
Reinstall the springs and install forks.