Clutch slipping in 4/5th gear wot

[Thedoctor]

So I have a 94 800 intruder I bought for $600 it's on the road now after 2 weeks and it runs pretty good now. I noticed under heavy throttle though it will make the clutch slip in 4th and 5th gear. I was reading some threads here a few days ago and saw there was a forum member who sold upgraded clutch springs. Is he still on here? I believe the thread was about the 1400 intruder, anyone corrected this problem on the 800?

[Lechy]

Designer does not supply springs for the 800's. However, Barnett make the best springs for these bikes part# 501-87-04009 A word of warning, do not exceed the OEM torque settings when bolting up the springs. You stand a good chance of shearing the head off the bolt or fracturing the clutch basket.
Before you go spending beer tokens check the 2 small holes in the bottom of the master cylinder and give them a poke out with some copper wire. COVER THE PAINTWORK, brake fluid eats it.

[Thedoctor]

Thanks! I'll check the clutch master first and then probably order new springs if that doesn't net me any improvement. Have a good weekend!

[hillsy]

Do you know what type of oil is in it? If it has car oil in it this can cause sliping in the clutch.

[Lechy]

Not quite the full story Hillsy. Wet clutches will slip if oils with friction modifiers are used ie: Teflon or Molybdenum. Suzuki recommends using detergent oils which basically are diesel engine oils. Check the manual for which standard to look for (Mil specs) and use a multigrade compatible with your local ambient temperatures, a chart is in the manual.
I have the OEM manual in PDF format if you need it.

[navigator]

+1 on the small hole clean out. Change the fluid if it is brown...use DOT 4 brake fluid.
For oil, check the bottle...if it says "energy conserving" like most 10w30 don't use it.
I have used 10w40 which does not state that.

[Herb]

+1 on the small hole clean out. Change the fluid if it is brown...use DOT 4 brake fluid.
For oil, check the bottle...if it says "energy conserving" like most 10w30 don't use it.
I have used 10w40 which does not state that.

That is NOT TRUE. I have been using "energy conserving" 10W40 in my 1400s for over 30 years years. I had problems with my 87 1400 and on the 99 when I first bought it. I put good springs in (Designers), throwing away the junk OEM springs, and for 18 years and over 200,000 miles, I have NEVER had a clutch slipping problem.

[Lechy]

Herb, Designer does not supply springs for the 800's. His springs are apparently strong enough to overcome the lack of friction caused by anti-friction additives whereas the OEM springs are not, great news for owners of the 1400's but no use at all for the owners of the baby sisters.

[Designer]

Designer does not supply springs for the 800's. However, Barnett make the best springs for these bikes part# 501-87-04009

Correct there, Lechy, No one ever said that Barnett's HD springs ever slipped, so I never crated any. However, their HD Springs can slip in the 1500.
So I made some for that Intruder Model.

A word of warning, do not exceed the OEM torque settings when bolting up the springs. You stand a good chance of shearing the head off the bolt or fracturing the clutch basket.

Good Advice !
The Stock Bolts seem to be Grade 5 (or even less). When over-torqued, they can stretch inside the Clutch. You won't see this during installation, only to have them break later on down the road.

Before you go spending beer tokens check the 2 small holes in the bottom of the master cylinder and give them a poke out with some copper wire. COVER THE PAINTWORK, brake fluid eats it.

I found that sometimes the blockage in those teeny-tiny holes can bend such a small diameter wire of Copper. I use a Single Strand of Wire from a one of those small Steel Wire Brushes.

[hillsy]

Not quite the full story Hillsy. Wet clutches will slip if oils with friction modifiers are used ie: Teflon or Molybdenum. Suzuki recommends using detergent oils which basically are diesel engine oils. Check the manual for which standard to look for (Mil specs) and use a multigrade compatible with your local ambient temperatures, a chart is in the manual.
I have the OEM manual in PDF format if you need it.

I was just trying to keep it simple.

[sgtcall]

+1 on cleaning out the holes in the clutch master cylinder. BUT...... since you just bought the bike, do you know how old the clutch fluid is? If it is more than 2 years old you should change it. Do the brake fluid while you are at it. Not that this is the slipping issue fix but it may help you out, plus since you are in there anyway it is a good time to do it.

Don't empty the lines. Intruders are a PIA to bleed the air out. Suck the fluid out of the master cylinder and leave a bit in the bottom. Put a 5/8th (I think) tube on the bleeder with something to catch the old fluid. Fill the MS with fresh DOT 3-4 Brake Fluid and pump the clutch, or brake, until you see clean fluid coming out. Make sure to keep fluid in the MS so you don't suck air in. Once you see clean fluid coming out top off the MS.

[hillsy]

Syringe is the easiest way to bleed both clutch and brakes.

[navigator]

+1 on the small hole clean out. Change the fluid if it is brown...use DOT 4 brake fluid.
For oil, check the bottle...if it says "energy conserving" like most 10w30 don't use it.
I have used 10w40 which does not state that.

That is NOT TRUE. I have been using "energy conserving" 10W40 in my 1400s for over 30 years years. I had problems with my 87 1400 and on the 99 when I first bought it. I put good springs in (Designers), throwing away the junk OEM springs, and for 18 years and over 200,000 miles, I have NEVER had a clutch slipping problem.

It is true Herb. 10w30 is "energy conserving"
You will NOT find a 10w40 oil with that designation.
Prove me wrong.

[Herb]

+1 on the small hole clean out. Change the fluid if it is brown...use DOT 4 brake fluid.
For oil, check the bottle...if it says "energy conserving" like most 10w30 don't use it.
I have used 10w40 which does not state that.

That is NOT TRUE. I have been using "energy conserving" 10W40 in my 1400s for over 30 years years. I had problems with my 87 1400 and on the 99 when I first bought it. I put good springs in (Designers), throwing away the junk OEM springs, and for 18 years and over 200,000 miles, I have NEVER had a clutch slipping problem.

It is true Herb. 10w30 is "energy conserving"
You will NOT find a 10w40 oil with that designation.
Prove me wrong.

I normally run 10 W 30 during the winter, doesn't hurt a thing if the clutch and springs are good and it helps with the cold start hyd adjuster ticking. Right now I am running 10 W 40 full synthetic. BTW, I have also run the Super Tech oil for many years with Fram filters.

Running an energy-conserving oil will not hurt a good clutch.

[hillsy]

Running an energy-conserving oil will not hurt a good clutch.

Rubbish - that's a blanket statement at best.

You can't say that as it totally depends on the type of oil and the bike.

The first thing you should do if you have a slipping clutch is make sure the oil is bike specific, wet clutch compatible.

[navigator]

Running an energy-conserving oil will not hurt a good clutch.

Rubbish - that's a blanket statement at best.

You can't say that as it totally depends on the type of oil and the bike.

The first thing you should do if you have a slipping clutch is make sure the oil is bike specific, wet clutch compatible.

Bingo!! wet clutch comparable.
I'm just trying to help this guy out, run whatever you want Herb.

[Herb]

Running an energy-conserving oil will not hurt a good clutch.

Rubbish - that's a blanket statement at best.

You can't say that as it totally depends on the type of oil and the bike.

The first thing you should do if you have a slipping clutch is make sure the oil is bike specific, wet clutch compatible.

Bingo!! wet clutch comparable.
I'm just trying to help this guy out, run whatever you want Herb.

Again, wrong answer.

"Bike specific" oil is a waste of money. Check it out on the web, those oils are the same as car oil and in some cases not as good.

Throw your money away and not do your bike any good, possibly harm.

People can do what they want but getting 200,000 miles on an engine pretty much tells it all.

[navigator]

I said wet clutch compatible, not bike specific.
You are pathetic, this is the tech forum....cool off.

[Herb]

I said wet clutch compatible, not bike specific.
You are pathetic, this is the tech forum....cool off.

All oils are wet-clutch compatible.

The only issue is if they meet the bike's manufactures specs for the engine.

I have been riding, and maintaining all of my bikes since I was 14, 55 years ago.

I have never had a bike to a shop for anything but warrenty work and have put over 350,000 miles on 2 VS 1400s, doing everything they needed myself.

don't give me any crap about not knowing what I am talking about.

[hillsy]

All oils are wet-clutch compatible.

Nope.