'96 VS800GL Ignition clicks, lights on, NOT STARTING!!

[HDR]

Morning intruders. Hope you and your loved ones are well. So here I come to bother with another question. I finally had the bike rollin' well. No starting issues, no missing light function, RPM's was easily fixed by mechanic. All was great. Then. My cowardly @hole of a landlord, knocked over the bike. On purpose I'm sure. Bike went down on its left side and broke off the foot peg and bent the clutch lever. For a few days it was functioning ok I guess. Then little by little it wouldn't start. I kept trying and trying and it finally did several times. But now, it does not. It'll get like a small jolt but not enough to start. The battery is fine, the lights turn on fully and when I turn on the ignition, I can hear the click under me. But no start. Some of the last times it did start, I wiggled the cables that are attached to the handles, and it worked. But not anymore. I'm assuming that when it got knocked over and the lever bent, it put something out of whack with the whole starting process. Any ideas please ? I'm assuming removing the tank is a start to get to the cables. But what's the minimum steps I can try to eliminate possibilities? I don't want to risk messing it up more by moving unnecessary parts. Thanks in advance for any feedback.

PS.. plenty of gas in the tank.

[Lechy]

Remove the left side cover, find the starter solenoid, hold the solenoid and press start, you should feel the solenoid kick. If it clicks, hold the start button down for a few seconds and feel the cables to see if one is getting hot. If the cable from the solenoid to starter is getting hot then you have a problem in the starter motor. It happened to me, turned out that one of the magnets in the motor had come loose and was jamming up the motor.
Check this out and then come back for more possibilities.

[navigator]

First check:
under the clutch lever are 2 wires, unplug them and jumper them together with a piece of wire, paper clip, fuse...whatever.
This is the clutch safety switch, make sure you are in neutral.

Second check:
Make sure the kickstand switch is working....also in neutral.

Then tell us how you made out.

[HDR]

Thank you Lechy & Navigator for your help and kind attention. I just saw your responses and will get right on it. Last night i got stranded. I was stuck in a parking lot for over 8 hours until finally a friend came with a van and we brought the bike home. The tension cable that goes from the right handle bar, the clutch lever one, has torn individual pieces of that make up the cable itself. There's torn individual metal strands right under the front of the tank, and another at the end, where the cable dives down and out of the inner bike. It's attached to a switch that as you click it. It pulls that metal wire? That has to be an issue correct ? If the cable had let's say 20 individual metal wires making it up, and now there are 14 let's say. That cable isn't gonna have the same amount of force while pulling when the bike is started, correct? Cause I've got someone who's been riding for years telling me it won't matter but that doesn't make sense. Like having 20 men holding on to ropes to not let a car get away per say by going over a cliff, you take off 6 of them. Less force, right? Or do i have this concept all wrong? Perhaps it's just a resistance factor? And if it is, sooner or later more will snap. I'll get on those things ASAP. If the starter is ok, is there any way to bypass the ignition process of pulling that goes on between the handle action and the jolt it creates?

[navigator]

I am not sure what you are saying.
The clutch is on the left side of the bike, If you jumper the two wires under the clutch lever together...the bike should start.
I believe you are talking about the throttle cable on the right side.
As you twist the throttle grip, it pulls on that cable which is connected to the carburetors.
Some fraying of that cable will still allow the throttle to work, but you should replace it.

[HDR]

I tried what you and Lenchy suggested. With Lenchy's suggestion I could hear the starter clinoid i believe make a humming sound when i tried to start it but it stopped I'm guessing because the battery was too low. With your idea, it didn't work however i need a better cable and the battery was below 12v by the time so that might work on w i get it charged up. I looked at the fuses which is probably what i should have done first and saw some burning it looked like on the fuse that went on the "POWER" spot. So.... Hopefully once i charge the battery it'll work. Geez I'm getting tired of having to do this every few months. And it's not the bike, it's the d@mn people messing with it. Perhaps it's a signal to stop hanging around trash...

[HDR]

Navigator, you are a walking REAL Intruder!!! That worked right away once the battery was charged up. Thanks so much!! I had moved around the cable on the right handle so when i started the RPM's were extremely high. Once i adjusted it and tried it again, it started just fine. Not only that, it's sound when on standby or neutral is better than ever. However it's blowing the fuse. The POWER 10amp fuse Im guessing. I tried restarting it the lights turn on but once I press the start button, all power just goes away and won't turn back on until I remove the fuse. Even if I put the same fuse the lights turn on but when I go to start it, it'll die. Once i replace it, it starts up. I'm assuming a bad connection ? With the battery? And Lechy there is a sound that comes from the engine, when i didn't have power, now I'm not sure, that kind of seemed to struggle to maintain and it did not sound like a healthy machine sound. Sounded like a machine dying out. Since it starts up well when I change the fuse, should i still be concerned with it? Thank you both for sharing your knowledge with someone who knows nothing about this topic. I've been thinking of just getting rid of the bike, too many issues but they've been caused by individuals just being hateful for some reason, if not, the bike would be great. Maybe it's too nice of a gem..

[navigator]

Suddenly going dead sounds like a bad connection at the battery.
Some battery bolts were too long and bottomed out on the bolt end rather than tightening on the cable connection.
Adding star washers to the battery bolts takes up that space and gives a tight connection.
Do both the positive and negative terminals... and the negative lead at the frame, just above the oil fill cap.
Sanding the connections with sandpaper also helps.
Disconnect the negative terminal first, and reconnect it last to prevent arcing.
You can get a new clutch switch for about $15, I'm sure you will find the plastic tab that engages the lever is sheared off.
The throttle cable is adjustable at the grip, you should have 1/8" or so of freeplay before the cable starts to pull.
For the fuse problem, you will need to look for chafed wires.

[HDR]

Thank you Navigator. The battery work your mentioning ok, thats easy. But you mentioned the cable. I believe that it needs some adjustments. Where one of the cables ends, on the right side, just under the filter, coming from the right throttle i believe. It seems to be what controls the RPM's. It's a tad accelerated. When I was trying to get it to start and not seeming to get enough of s jolt, I adjusted some of those cables, that one specifically actually. I'm assuming that I have to play with it, all the way from the throttle, where it has a nut and a joining about 1" long nut that applies tension to that cable, all the way down to where the cable ends? Is that correct? Maybe on one side it's too much pressure? Not enough at one end? Does that sound right? But now since your suggestion worked. What do I repair so i don't have to keep making that exterior connection you mentioned to do on the left handle? That's not going to be fixed by tending to the battery as you suggested, correct?

[navigator]

The throttle cable should have about 1/8" freeplay at the grip, before the carb linkage starts to move.
That cable has a rubber sleeve on it where it exits the switchbox near the throttle grip. slide the rubber back to expose the adjustment nut....get your freeplay there.
That cable goes under the fuel tank to a splitter. that cable is connected to two cables there, one to the front carb, one to the rear carb.
The idle speed can be controlled by turning the vertical thumbwheel on the rear carb.

For your clutch switch replacement, Remove the bolt that the lever pivots on.
Underneath the clutch master cylinder are 2 phillips screws that hold the switch in place.
When you put the new switch in, be sure the plastic tang lines up with the groove in the lever.

The part number is 37560-38A00, buy at a dealer or online.

[HDR]

Great!! Thanks for your help Navigator!! I've got another one for you if you don't mind.. sorry. The bike left me stranded a couple of weeks ago. Since I couldn't get it to start, it got towed and i just got it back. Cost me $850 and that was because they knocked off like $400. I was and am still thinking of just giving it up. The bike has Been great on its own, just been messed with too much by idiots. Anyhow. I can't get it to start. I have the cable on the clutch lever joined like you suggested before. But now. When I try to start it it won't start and there's this ugly loud buzzing sound that seems to come from behind the fuses under the seat. I thought maybe the battery wasn't strong enough but after fully charging it and trying also another battery(one thing to keep in mind, they're not the exact battery this bike needs, that battery was defective) it still does that buzzing/permanent really fast clicking sound..incorrect wiring?? Fuses are all good. Also, the wires i have connecting to the battery get really hot. There was a small amount of smoke frim the wires when I was trying to get to to go. Your help would be appreciated Navigator...

[FallenAngel]

Great!! Thanks for your help Navigator!! I've got another one for you if you don't mind.. sorry. The bike left me stranded a couple of weeks ago. Since I couldn't get it to start, it got towed and i just got it back. Cost me $850 and that was because they knocked off like $400. I was and am still thinking of just giving it up. The bike has Been great on its own, just been messed with too much by idiots. Anyhow. I can't get it to start. I have the cable on the clutch lever joined like you suggested before. But now. When I try to start it it won't start and there's this ugly loud buzzing sound that seems to come from behind the fuses under the seat. I thought maybe the battery wasn't strong enough but after fully charging it and trying also another battery(one thing to keep in mind, they're not the exact battery this bike needs, that battery was defective) it still does that buzzing/permanent really fast clicking sound..incorrect wiring?? Fuses are all good. Also, the wires i have connecting to the battery get really hot. There was a small amount of smoke frim the wires when I was trying to get to to go. Your help would be appreciated Navigator...

$800.00 to tow a motorcycle???Because they knocked off $400.00??? Where do you live and how far did they transport it
I know you ask for Navigator's help and If I had a problem with one of my bikes I would also hope he would offer some assistance
If I may offer a suggestion
With a fully charged battery
Check the starter solenoid and starter
Tap on the solenoid while your trying to start it.

To check the starter you can connect the positive side of the battery to the connection and ground the negative side to the frame. This bypasses the solenoid

[HDR]

Greetings, thank you fallenangel, sorry. Usually navigator, or Lechy have helped me and I see I guess have a more active history and since they've been so helpful, I asked him j guess. But if course I'm thrilled to get to meet someone new in the group!! And of course annoy with my simple fixes. I live in California, the towing wasn't $800, sorry, the towing was $60 but. . the bike had been there for almost 2 weeks. $90/day. When I went and asked it was like at $1200!! But the manager was super cool and understanding and he took what I had. $850. My entire check. So... I'll have no food, cigarettes, drink or anything else , but I got my non functioning bike back. Ok..

So you say the starter and starter cyllinoid? I thought something like that but I ask cause I don't wanna be moving stuff around and mess it up more. Ok I'll check those within the hour. Those 2 parts are like behind the fuses correct?? Someone told me that there could be a sensor to that's tripped off? Kinda like a house fuse. That all I'd have to do is get to it, switch it off, and the on again. They told me it was by where the fuel jets go? Does that ring a bell?? I'm pretty sure it's something electric , a bad it extra connecting or what you say.

So when I test these, what is supose to happen? If they're both ok, for example if I bypass the starter cyllinoid and the starter is ok, will that start the bike? Orcise versa? I only ask so the bike doessnt suddenly start in me. Thanks again for taking the time FallenAngel, and it's great to meet you

[FallenAngel]

Greetings, thank you fallenangel, sorry. Usually navigator, or Lechy have helped me and I see I guess have a more active history and since they've been so helpful, I asked him j guess. But if course I'm thrilled to get to meet someone new in the group!! And of course annoy with my simple fixes. I live in California, the towing wasn't $800, sorry, the towing was $60 but. . the bike had been there for almost 2 weeks. $90/day. When I went and asked it was like at $1200!! But the manager was super cool and understanding and he took what I had. $850. My entire check. So... I'll have no food, cigarettes, drink or anything else , but I got my non functioning bike back. Ok..

So you say the starter and starter cyllinoid? I thought something like that but I ask cause I don't wanna be moving stuff around and mess it up more. Ok I'll check those within the hour. Those 2 parts are like behind the fuses correct?? Someone told me that there could be a sensor to that's tripped off? Kinda like a house fuse. That all I'd have to do is get to it, switch it off, and the on again. They told me it was by where the fuel jets go? Does that ring a bell?? I'm pretty sure it's something electric , a bad it extra connecting or what you say.

So when I test these, what is supose to happen? If they're both ok, for example if I bypass the starter cyllinoid and the starter is ok, will that start the bike? Orcise versa? I only ask so the bike doessnt suddenly start in me. Thanks again for taking the time FallenAngel, and it's great to meet you

Navigator and Lechy are both very helpful along with a few others here I trust what they post and often learn from them
Yes Im sucking up to them

SO your bike was towed to a yard and stored for a few days That makes more sense
Yers when jumping the starter if your ignition is on and the starter is good it may start Also this bypasses any safety's in the starter circuit so make sure it is in neutral
These parts may not be bad but by checking them you might find a loose cable and it could be an easy fix
If the starter cranks over(located on the lower part of the engine and has a large cable going to it ) then you may need a solenoid
If it dosnt then you probably should look towards a new starter. Because you mention some smoke coming from the wiring. something that will happen when something that draws a lot of current isnt working correctly. The starter draws a lot of current

The solenoid is a heavy duty relay when energized by the starter switch a magnetic field is created that over powers a spring then causes the starter contacts in solenoid to connect allowing full battery currant to run through the heavier cables from the battery to the starter

Tapping on ether device while trying to start the bake may offer a temporary fix
solenoid 's are fairly cheap and someone at the old boards said that a solenoid for a Suzuki Samari works on the 1400 not sure if it will work on the 750s and 800
I think you can access the solenoid from under the seat
Hope you find a loose connection when checking these parts But Im kinda leaning towards the starter

[navigator]

As Fallen Angel says, that clicking noise is probably the solenoid, located under the left side cover...upper right corner.
Perform all tests in neutral so the bike won't lurch forward on you.
First you said you tried 2 different batteries, but how?
I suspect you are not getting a good connection.
Sometimes when using jumper cables the connection points (teeth) in the clamps are so small that you will not get a good connection, enough to spin the starter, especially if the stock installed battery is toast....or your presumed good batteries are weak.
The solenoid has two large lugs, 10mm hex, make sure they are tight.
The forward one goes to the battery, the rear lug goes to the starter.
If you hook a known good battery to the forward lug positive and the other cable to the frame (negative), the starter should spin with the start switch.
If not, the solenoid may be at fault.
If the soleniod is suspect, jump across the two large lugs with the shank of a screwdriver, this bypasses the solenoid...the starter should spin without using the start switch.
If it does not engage and/or the cables get hot and you see smoke..Immediately disconnect the battery.
Try this and keep us posted.

[HDR]

Ok so i tried one of the suggestions you guys made but not the other one. I didn't try and connect the positive battery end to the positive of the cyllionoid starter. One of 2 things, either I'm looking at the wrong thing and that's not the cyllionoid starter, it my model has a different set up because the positive battery cable already goes to the starter cyllionoid. Unless again. I'm looking at the wrong thing. Please advise.

On the using a screwdriver to jolt the 2 nuts together and try and turn on. That didn't happen. And i know what you mean before I've accidentally touched those 2 nuts with another metal and it made the sound of wanting to start. Not this time. Just the sparks.

I'm sending you guys 2 Links of 2 videos . They're like 7 seconds. Hopefully you can hear and see what I'm seeing and can finish this off.

Assuming that the starter AND/OR starter relay are both shot, is there any other way i can get my bike going.. i am fed UK with all this walking and bus rides. And need the bike too to get that airhead who knocked it over !!






Hopefully you can see them. Thank you

[hillsy]

Can't see the videos - they are on your Google Drive account by the looks of things which must be private?

[FallenAngel]

We need permission to view
Im still wanting for a link to show up in my E Mail


If the part you jumped looks like this then you probably need a starter


There is no quick fix for this short of rebuilding it

[Lechy]

If I have been reading correctly, you have power from the start switch to the solenoid and when depressed the solenoid buzzes instead of giving a single click each time the start button is operated. If so we have narrowed the fault down to: low battery, faulty solenoid, bad starter motor and lets not forget the battery to frame earth lead. Solenoids are generic and cheap, remove yours and have an autoparts store fix you up with something similar. when I replaced mine it cost around $5, but it didn't cure my problem. I bit the bullet and removed the starter motor it's a real bitch of a job getting to the bolts holding the small connection piece on the cylinder. This was what I found



Plus this the oil seal had worn and the motor was full of crappy oil. (oil seals are also generic). A good clean and a bit of epoxy to re-fit the magnet and new brushes (I found similar brushes locally and a bit of filing got them fitted), No problems since. A word of warning, never put any king of power to the starter motor unless it is securely held in a vice, the torque reaction will cause the motor to jump up and beat the dog shit out of you.
F A thanks for the kind words.

[FallenAngel]

A word of warning, never put any king of power to the starter motor unless it is securely held in a vice, the torque reaction will cause the motor to jump up and beat the dog shit out of you.
F A thanks for the kind words.

Yes it will could bust a couple fingers to

F A thanks for the kind words.

My pleasure
I have a great deal of respect for those that help others

On the using a screwdriver to jolt the 2 nuts together and try and turn on. That didn't happen. And i know what you mean before I've accidentally touched those 2 nuts with another metal and it made the sound of wanting to start. Not this time. Just the sparks.

Hopefully lots of sparks
Did you do this with a fully charged battery???
If not get a full charge on the battery and test again
One connection is from the battery and the other goes to the starter
If you have access to a test light you can use it to test the solenoid by connecting the clip to the cable going to the starter ground the probe and push the starter button. One side is hot or has power the other goes to the starter.
If the light lights then the solenoid is working