Fixing front fork leak - '93 800

[panamaniac]

Hi folks,

I did some searching on the forum first, and found a few useful threads on this topic, including viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3737&p=117223#p117223 and a video made by the guy who started that thread, which is here: [youtube][/youtube]

I do still have some questions, and thought a new thread that gathers all the info into one place would be good. I think the first question I have that I don't think is clearly spelled out elsewhere is what all I need to buy, and from whom, to fix leaky front forks. I think I should get stuff ordered now since from my reading of other posts shipping sometimes takes a while. See below for what I think I need to do the job. As you all give me more info I can edit this post so that all the right info is right here. Navigator, do you agree with the below-linked fork seal driver PVC trick? I saw a thread where you said to use 3/4" but the linked thread says to use 2" so I wasn't sure.

Items and tools needed:
- All Balls Dust and Seal Kit - 39X52X11 https://www.ebay.com/itm/All-Balls-FORK ... SwFL9Tu34t
- fork seal driver - can use PVC pipe, see forum here: viewtopic.php?f=33&t=6633
- New fork seal oil: [Updated]: Navigator says many brands will work, and he prefers 15W, but higher is stiffer and lower is looser. I ordered Motul 15W since that's the brand he mentioned first https://www.amazon.com/Motul-101138-For ... ive&sr=1-4


My front fork—the leak isn't obvious in the pic b/c I haven't ridden in a while!

[navigator]

Yea, the above info is all good. I use OEM seals but All Balls are fine. The open side of the seal goes down towards the oil.
You can make the driver in that link, but IIRC I just used a piece of 1-1/2 PVC pipe, which slid over the 39mm fork tube.
I do all my work in a vice, but you can do it on the bike, so after you pull the fork cap (27mm socket) loosen the tree clamp and slide the whole fork down and out.
pull out the spacer, washer and spring.
The spacer is what I replace with 3/4 PVC if you have progressive springs.
Dump the oil.
Carefully, using light taps, drive the chrome cover off the top of the lower leg, there is a detent in the back to help you get started. work your way around.
Then pry off the dust seal, and remove the circlip.
I use a standard allen wrench on the bottom bolt, I forget the size..6mm or 8mm.
Long end into the bolt, then use a crescent wrench on the short side. Snap sharply.
If the whole assy. turns, jam the round end of a broom handle down the tube to hold the innards.
Then 'slide hammer' the seal out of the lower leg by using the fork tube.
Pay attention to how the damper is assembled in the bottom of the fork.
I use 15w fork oil, you can use 10w,15w,or 20w. Higher the number, the stiffer the ride.
Lots of fork oil manufacturers out there, Motul, BelRay, Maxima etc.
1 qt. will do both forks.
The manual calls for the level to be 4" 5-1/2"from the top, with the fork compressed and spring out.
I use a meat baster marked 4" from the end, overfill a little, then suck it out to the proper level.
The height level is not super critical, but both forks should be the same.
Good luck with your project.

[hillsy]

Good advice from navigator but you will want to clean the chrome stanchions on the forks and ensure there is no pitting there. If there is pitting where the fork passes the seal then they will rip the seals and leak again.

And if the damper bolt turns - put the springs back in the forks and do up the caps loosely. This will help to hold the damper rod in place so you can take the bolt out. Rattle gun is actually the best tool for this.

[panamaniac]

Thanks, all. Ordered the all balls kit linked in the OP, as well as Motul 15W (will update OP with Amazon link to that as well).

[navigator]

Thanks, all. Ordered the all balls kit linked in the OP, as well as Motul 15W (will update OP with Amazon link to that as well).

I stand corrected, the oil level when filling should be 5-1/2" from the top of a compressed fork.
fill the fork a bit and then exersize it to push the air out of the damper, then fill to spec.

[navigator]

Another tip... on reassembly install the axle without the wheel.
Install your caliper and fender,
Then pull the axle and install the wheel.

[hillsy]

Another tip... on reassembly install the axle without the wheel.
Install your caliper and fender,
Then pull the axle and install the wheel.

Can you get the wheel in with the caliper already in place? Never done a single disc Intruder before but with most other bikes it's not possible?

[sgtcall]

Don't forget to polish the fork lowers while you have everything apart. 0000 steel wool and elbow grease works but I am sure you can use a sander and 2000 grit sand paper. When you are done you may want to use a spray on clear coat. If I can find the pictures of the PVC fork seal driver I will re post them.

[navigator]

Another tip... on reassembly install the axle without the wheel.
Install your caliper and fender,
Then pull the axle and install the wheel.

Can you get the wheel in with the caliper already in place? Never done a single disc Intruder before but with most other bikes it's not possible?

Yes you can, I pry the pads apart a little.
Actually the caliper can go on after as well...either way.

[panamaniac]

Have almost screwed up my courage enough to try this, maybe tomorrow or tonight. Nav, why replace the spacer with PVC? Are you saying the pvc is better than the spacer? And what are progressive springs? And would I just cut the pvc to match the length of the spacer?

[panamaniac]

Oh, I get it, Progressive is a brand and they are longer springs so you need a shorter spacer. Hmmm. I’m leaning toward keeping the stock springs to save time and money but can I get advice o. Whether/why I would swap in Progressive springs?

[navigator]

Yes, Progressive is a brand of aftermarket springs.
They are longer than stock, so you need a shorter spacer.
I and many have used pvc because it is easier than cutting the stock spacer.
If you have the means to cut down the stock spacer, have at it.
If your bike has low miles, stock springs are fine.
After time they will fade.
You may have bad handling, or nose dives on braking.
At 60,000 miles I put in Progressives, the ride improved.
Your results may vary.

[hillsy]

Oh, I get it, Progressive is a brand and they are longer springs so you need a shorter spacer. Hmmm. I’m leaning toward keeping the stock springs to save time and money but can I get advice o. Whether/why I would swap in Progressive springs?

Your stock springs are 27 years old and have spent all their life under preload - they will have sagged to some degree.

Upgrading to new springs isn't essential, but it's an upgrade.

[panamaniac]

Nav, you wrote:

I use a standard allen wrench on the bottom bolt, I forget the size..6mm or 8mm.
Long end into the bolt, then use a crescent wrench on the short side. Snap sharply.
If the whole assy. turns, jam the round end of a broom handle down the tube to hold the innards.

Did you mean the bolts at the very bottom of the bottom of each fork? If so, yeah, I cannot get them to snap—it’s almost like they are 7mm (which none of my sets have) bc 6 wiggles and 8 is too big. I’ve added PB blaster twice to no avail, afraid I’ll strip them at this point. Any tips? Sounds like that was what someone was suggesting a rattle gun for....

[navigator]

Yes, the bottom bolt on the end of the lower tube.

Tip...if it is 7mm, DON'T use a 6mm!!
If they strip, you are screwed!
Buy the proper size.
There is a copper washer on each to seal the oil in.
If you can't do it with a crescent wrench on the short end of an allen, you may need to shop for proper tools.
You could cut a long section of allen wrench, so you have a straight long piece, stick that in a 7mm socket and use a handheld impact wrench, or a rattle gun impact tool.

[navigator]

7mm = .276"
9/32" = .281"
give that a try.

[panamaniac]

Thanks, Nav. Yeah I've just never seen a 7 used on the intruder so I figured that wasn't correct but will try the imperial and see if it's better—and if so maybe go get a 7. And yeah, it might be doable if I had a "double long" allen, but trying to leverage the short side hasn't worked for me yet. Will hit with more PB and look for a better tool.

[sgtcall]

Not sure if this will work for you but in the past when I needed the right size allen wrench in a pinch I have used the head of a bolt. If you can find one that is long enough to reach then just clamp down on the threads with vise grips it may work. Also for pulling the springs you can use a large bolt bent at a 90 instead of buying the allen wrench.

Here is an example.

[Herb]

I bought a 3/8ths drive set of metric Allen wrenches from Harbor Freight that has a 7 mm in it.

[navigator]

I bought a 3/8ths drive set of metric Allen wrenches from Harbor Freight that has a 7 mm in it.

Problem with them is the shank isn't long enough to reach about 4" up into that tunnel, and the tunnel is too narrow for the socket...maybe a 1/4" drive would fit.....or replace the short shank with a longer one.