Wiring Troubles

[panamaniac]

Hi folks,

So I was so fed up trying to reinstall my battery a few weeks ago that I accidentally snapped the wire.

So then I go looking for replacement wire, which is apparently impossible—neither electronic/electric supply stores nor big box nor motorcycle shops seem to sell wire with lots of tiny copper wires inside. Fine. I'm using some that I found at Home Depot with several (maybe 8) small wires inside. We'll see how it works.

Then I go to add the new positive wire, but I end up pulling out the small red wire that runs from the bolt where the positive battery terminal connects over to the fuse box. I pull the wire out, but not the little metal connector that holds that small red wire in the 2x4 slot wire harness connector thingy that plugs into the fuse box. AND of course the metal connector inside is stuck. Just spent an hour trying to shove it out to no avail.

I'd buy a new wire connector and just plug the 7 or 8 wires into that one, but I've no idea who would sell this—all the bike parts sites I go to show the diagram but clearly aren't selling the connectors.

Any advice on addressing my specific problem, as well as handling wiring issues like these generally? Is it just always an uphill challenge because our bikes are so old? (Mine is a '93 800).

Here's the pic of the problem:

Thanks for any help. I'm going nuts over here.

[navigator]

Like most connectors, those metal sections get crimped to the wire and then slid into the plastic block.
That metal section has a small tang on it that allows it to slide into the block from the wire side, but the tang springs up into a detent which locks it in and wont allow you to pull the wire and metal back out.
If you take a very thin sewing needle or a safety pin and slide it alongside the metal piece, from the front, between the metal and plastic, you can push the tang down allowing the metal to be pushed out the back (wire side)
Then you can attempt to open the wire cavity, and or solder the wire back in place, then reinsert it.
It's not easy, good luck.

[FallenAngel]

From the looks of that wire I would say someone else brook it and just stuffed it back in the connector. I might even think this is not the stock wire.
Slide your tool on the back side of the spade connector from the service side of the plug connector in the middle. If you can find something to push the spade connector from the wire side to free it from its locking position in the connector. Another safety pin may be helpful or a paper clip.

[Herb]

I have a set of jewelers screwdrivers that has a little screwdriver that releases the pin and pushes it out of the connector. when pushed from the connector side, not the wire side.

[hillsy]

You should be able to buy a generic connector block from an auto store that will have the same terminals in it.

And the small screwdrivers like the watch ones will release the tangs.

[panamaniac]

Thanks, all. I ended up pushing it back and forth and finally freed it, then installed with a new spade connector. Next time I'll go looking for the tang first, I guess I always forget that there is one!

Any advice on getting battery wires? I've tried several places and nobody has it—finally used the stuff I'd bought at HD but it was too inflexible and basically snapped off.

Also, my goal here is to have enough extra wire somewhere in the line so that when I open the battery box I can let the battery fall WITHOUT unhooking it, then unhook it on the ground. Has anyone done that, and if so, are you cramming the extra wire in the battery box, or keeping the slack elsewhere in the line? I'm basically sick and tired of the battery location and installation, it makes me want to just sell the bike, so anything I can do to improve the situation would be great.

[navigator]

Thanks, all. I ended up pushing it back and forth and finally freed it, then installed with a new spade connector. Next time I'll go looking for the tang first, I guess I always forget that there is one!

Any advice on getting battery wires? I've tried several places and nobody has it—finally used the stuff I'd bought at HD but it was too inflexible and basically snapped off.

Also, my goal here is to have enough extra wire somewhere in the line so that when I open the battery box I can let the battery fall WITHOUT unhooking it, then unhook it on the ground. Has anyone done that, and if so, are you cramming the extra wire in the battery box, or keeping the slack elsewhere in the line? I'm basically sick and tired of the battery location and installation, it makes me want to just sell the bike, so anything I can do to improve the situation would be great.

The battery is actually very easy to remove and unhook, provided it is the proper battery with connections in the proper place.
place a chunk of 2x6 under the rear tire and another under the kickstand.
use a 10mm socket and extension to remove the negative side, then do the same on the positive side.
open the door and drop it out.

IMO there is not enough room for all that extra wire.
For the flexible wire, buy a pre-made positive battery cable from a parts store or a junk yard. Buy one for a van or pickup and it should be plenty long.
Cut it and affix the proper terminals.
Arc welding cables are another option for flexible cable.

[panamaniac]

Navigator, it may be easy for you, but that doesn't suprise me given your Intruder mastery! For us mortals it's sometimes a different story. I've had years of headaches, with issues like the battery knocking the cables out of the way as I close the box (so that I can no longer line the cables up with the terminals. I do think the 2x6 trick will help though. And I agree about too much cable—I couldn't close the box last night with the extra cable in there, and kept trying til my connectors broke apart again.

I think my negative has been basically smashed and somewhat melted onto the regulator for years, so that may have put it at an awkward angle.

Ok, off to try for the 5th time to get the right cables!

[Swcoinguy]

Panamaniac-how often are you replacing the battery. I can't remember how long ago I put a battery in my 02 but it's been a good long while. If your buying cheap batteries your only compounding the problem by forcing yourself to replace them more often. I prefer Motobatt AGM's or true Yuasa brand lead/acid batteries. The motobatt in the 02 is at least 5 years old and showing no sign of giving up.
A good tender will help extend battery life also.

For cables, you can buy bulk battery wire at most automotive retailers.

[panamaniac]

Coinguy, good to hear from you!

I looked up my records and I bought my current battery in 2017. At some point I found out that (at least with my battery tender) you can't leave these batteries tended all winter, so I think I kinda dried mine out. I then cracked it back open and added more water and got it working again. But you're right that it might be time for a new battery and that I should make sure I get a good one. My current one is the Bikemaster BTX16-BS-1 (link at the bottom). My sense was that it was a good battery. Can you link me to the specific one you use? Also, what are you tips for tending it during winter? Do you remove from bike or use a method for tending while on-bike? And any suggestions for getting a battery tender that won't fry the battery if left on it for a few months? Like most bike owners, I give my battery the most abuse during winter.

As to cables, I finally broke down and called another bike shop in town—one that looked like the kind of place with people who actually knew something, as opposed to the "popular" one that was worse than useless. I brought in the old cables and he made new ones to match (though I had to bore out the ground wire to get it to fit over the bolt going into the transmission case). Then, after struggling for hours last night to reconnect the battery (and making several hate-videos to post here yelling at Navigator for saying that battery swaps are easy—don't worry, I won't post them, but I was fuming!), I found a trick where I can disconnect the ground from the transmission case, then connect the negative FIRST (while the battery is sitting on the floor), then install the battery, attach the positive terminal, and then connect the ground to the case. Unfortunately, the battery was too weak even for a pop-start, so now it's charging again :/

[navigator]

The terminals on that Bikemaster battery may be your issue.
It appears as though you have to hold the nut in while attaching the bolt/cable....is that true?
You need a battery with affixed threads so you just need to apply a bolt without holding a nut.

Oh and please post your videos!

[panamaniac]

Thanks Nav! You’re right that years, one MORE problem I’ve faced is whether the nuts fall out of the backside of the terminal when screwing in the bolts...super frustrating.

Here’s my update: Nav, I installed the Motobatt and it started right up!! It actually started better, even after 6+ months of disuse, than I recall it starting in years! I credit the battery obviously, but also, given the condition of the old cables, I think the new cables helped a lot too. The motobatt was a SUPER tight fit in my box but I got it all worked out now. Just did an oil and filter change, hub oil change, greased and oiled the joints, and am now cleaning and drying the air filters. Next is spark plug review then maybe take a look at the carbs and valves—is still never checked valve clearance. Known issues that are separate from basic maintenance that I’ll probably make posts about are the leaks around the final drive...shaft I guess it’s called? The wide metal tunnel running back to the back wheel is leaking oil in several places and the big gasket thing doesn’t look super snug. And then of course the fork seals. And I now have a dented tailpipe that I’m concerned about. I’m sure there’s more lol.

Thanks so much for all the help!!