Intermittent Problem

[Lechy]

Not sure if this has been mentioned.
Next time, run it untill both cylinders stop firing, shut off the ignition, put the petcock in the off position.Take an aerosol cap and place it under the fuel bowl drain, open the drain and see what comes out, both carbs.

[emoji41]

[OhmsLaw43]

Thanks Lechy. That will be my next option if it quits during daytime. It seems to run better on the way home then on the way to work. I might be mentally influencing it there. I did put some dry gas in it so I’ll see what that does

[OhmsLaw43]

Ok getting closer. Bike crapped out again after 16 miles on the freeway. I started it again and it was barely running on the rear cylinder. I checked the fuel pump and no clicking I’m thinking somewhere a wire is getting hot and separating. Sound plausible??

[rocksandhammers]

Could be a bad fuel pump relay? Have you checked the wiring out at all? Looks like the only wiring to the fuel pump is the Br/B wire from the relay and the B/W ground wire.

[Lechy]

I think I poted this earlier. By-pass the stupid relay by hooking the pump up to an orange/white wire before it enters the CDI unit. This will allow the pump to operate as soon as the ignition is turned on and can be shut down with the bar kill switch. The pump will run without having to start the engine.
[emoji41]

[OhmsLaw43]

Lechy you did and I did that and it still died. Fuel pump relay on a 95 is inside the fuel pump. This is also the 3rd new fuel pump (last one leaked so they sent me another).

[Lechy]

I had no success at all with the Chinese made pumps, 2 crapped out on me pretty quickly. I found a Japanese made pump that was specified for a small Mitsubishi, for about $30 had to cut the mounting lugs off but apart from that it fit perfectly, even had side entry/exit. Just make sure you have the arrows on the pump to the correct hoses. Sometimes they can get air locked and tick constantly without pumping, I had to lay the pump over sideways with the outlet pointing upwards to get the air out.It might be an idea to pull the top off the pump and check to make doubly sure that you have it wired up correctly.

[emoji41] [emoji41]

[Herb]

Is there a chance that the pump is losing the signal from the ignition box?

[OhmsLaw43]

I’m thinking either there or the number one coil. Only two places it could happen once it starts

[Lechy]

Could be that the relay is faulty and crapping out when things warm up. Might be an idea to follow the wiring back and clean/tighten the connectors. Try running a seperate earth from the pump body to frame.

[emoji41]

[OhmsLaw43]

Not ignoring anyone, just trying everything posted here. I’ll post an update after I get the OEM fuel pump in.

[OhmsLaw43]

Well still doing the same thing even with an OEM pump and rewiring the power side to the relay. 32 my les today and it just quit.

[Lechy]

Looks like you are going to have to pull that front carb and check the float needle screen. It is very possible that the old fuel lines started to deteriorate from the inside and a chunk of rubber got lodged in the fuel gallery of the carb.

[emoji41]

[Herb]

Not real familiar with the 800 fuel pump system but from looking at the wiring diagram there is a signal from the ignition box that works the relay. If that signal is lost the pump will quit. Have you wired it so that the pump comes on anytime the key is on and taken the whole relay system out of the equation?

[OhmsLaw43]

I haven’t done that yet. It would seem to me that you would need that signal to let the pump know what is going on (rpm’s, latching). Just a guess and I’m sure others know more about it.

[navigator]

I haven’t done that yet. It would seem to me that you would need that signal to let the pump know what is going on (rpm’s, latching). Just a guess and I’m sure others know more about it.

The pump goes on and off based on fuel pressure, as long as it has constant power.
The signal from the ignition box is also needed, but it is more of a safety thing, It shuts the pump off if the engine is not running.
Losing that signal however could be your issue.

[Herb]

I haven’t done that yet. It would seem to me that you would need that signal to let the pump know what is going on (rpm’s, latching). Just a guess and I’m sure others know more about it.

The pump goes on and off based on fuel pressure, as long as it has constant power.
The signal from the ignition box is also needed, but it is more of a safety thing, It shuts the pump off if the engine is not running.
Losing that signal however could be your issue.

If it works the same way as the 1400 the ignition box provides a ground to the relay. finding the wire that goes to the ign box and checking it for ground with the engine running if it is there, ground the relay wire.

According to the wiring diagram I have it is a black yellow wire.

[OhmsLaw43]

So bike has ran fine for a week commuting 84 miles a day. I’ve kept the speed at 60 mph and don’t top the tank off. My friend who owns Prestige Motorcycles replaced the fuel pump and rerouted the power lead for the pump. I’m now thinking it is the vent in the cap somehow vapor locking if fuel gets in it. Anyhow, it runs great so I’m happy. It’s funny it started running right the same day I bought a Victory V92C to ride. Thanks everyone for all the help (too many to list) .