What can I delete and what is vital to operation?
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Evap delete
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Whisperingwayne
- Tricycles are Cool
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2017 3:27 pm
- My Bike: 2006 s83 boulevard
Evap delete
I'm sick of looking at the charcoal canister and all the extra hoses that go with it, so I decided to try to delete the evap system. There's a lot more hoses than I expected and need your help. Unfortunately I couldn't find any other threads on the subject, but if there is one please point me in the right direction.
What can I delete and what is vital to operation?
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
What can I delete and what is vital to operation?
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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subin
- Studying MC Handbook
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2016 3:10 pm
- My Bike: 2007 s83
Re: Evap delete
Below is what HighDesertIntruder from the old Intruder forum told me many years ago. I have not done this myself on the s83, but it makes sense.
....what normally is done when removing the canister is to take the two return hoses (one goes to each carb, but can't remember on the 1400 if it does it directly from the canister or further up the line....the 800 is at the canister) and join them using a vacuum tee.
Best if you can find one with a smaller center leg, but if not then just a standard vacuum T should do it. Leave the center leg of the T open (see also last sentence). Then for the time being take the feed line and plug it (or else you could have a leak if the tank is too full).
Go out and give it a test ride and if all works well your good to go. From there just tuck the hoses in under the seat next time it is off. When I did mine I pluged the tank outlet directly at the tank just so I wouldn't have another hose to deal with, but that is up to you on how you want to handle it.
Once you've validated that all works well just remove the canister. The reason I do it this way is so if you decide to sell the bike later it is a very simple job to reinstate the canister.
Oh and just to answer the question since most ask.....From my understanding if the center leg of the T is not left open then there is a chance a reduced response can be found in the middle of the powerband while riding....I have tried it both ways and never experienced that, but others claim they have, so heck I just stick with the vacuum T just in case .
....what normally is done when removing the canister is to take the two return hoses (one goes to each carb, but can't remember on the 1400 if it does it directly from the canister or further up the line....the 800 is at the canister) and join them using a vacuum tee.
Best if you can find one with a smaller center leg, but if not then just a standard vacuum T should do it. Leave the center leg of the T open (see also last sentence). Then for the time being take the feed line and plug it (or else you could have a leak if the tank is too full).
Go out and give it a test ride and if all works well your good to go. From there just tuck the hoses in under the seat next time it is off. When I did mine I pluged the tank outlet directly at the tank just so I wouldn't have another hose to deal with, but that is up to you on how you want to handle it.
Once you've validated that all works well just remove the canister. The reason I do it this way is so if you decide to sell the bike later it is a very simple job to reinstate the canister.
Oh and just to answer the question since most ask.....From my understanding if the center leg of the T is not left open then there is a chance a reduced response can be found in the middle of the powerband while riding....I have tried it both ways and never experienced that, but others claim they have, so heck I just stick with the vacuum T just in case .
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navigator
- Joined a 1100cc Club
- Posts: 5481
- Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2016 12:33 pm
- My Bike: VS800
Re: Evap delete
HDI and Dr. Bob were both intruder gurus, lots of info was lost from the purple board.