Intruders-Alert

REMOVED Carb for cleaning I know the needle tube is supposed come out for cleaning the tiny holes. 90% of them screw out. exploded pic of most Brands shows they screw out, not these. Do they punch out top or bottom? set up a long time need to clean. Thanks for any Help! can't find SuZ intruder Carb rebuild on U-tube. I know I am not the only one that has attempted this!

Not really sure of what you are talking about.

Pull the main jet and the needle jet unscrews from inside the tube.

Rear carb, unscrew the main jet metering nut. push the main jet back into the throat of the carb. Front, remove the brass acorn type nut adjacent to the float pin, push the main jet into the throat of the carb. One of them is position sensitive and needs lining up correctly when re-fitting (can't remember which one but you will see).

[emoji41] [emoji41]

Both are position sensitive.

Thanks! guys!!

VictourGlP1400 wrote:Thanks! guys!!

To answer your question properly. The main jet emulsion tube is the main jet tube (the little holes) when this is removed the holes in the emulsion tube can be cleaned.

Good point --I dont think that anyone cleans those and you are right it is important for correct air to fuel emulsion.

I removed the Needle and the main jet And used a 5/16 punch to gently tap on the tube, it did not move. Is that the way it comes out? did not want to damage it.

No because there is a flat on the carb to keep its position and you are prob tapping on the flat. It should just push out.

Try a 1/8 punch and gently tap on the brass side not on the threaded hole.

Thanks, Fred I will try that I stayed on the brass to not damage the threads. I will try the side of the brass.

https://imgur.com/a/Fefp0RF

I have the opposite issue. Rear carb on my VS1400 the tube is loose and I cant unscrew the main jet without pushing from the throat side. Opened the carb because bike wouldnt give power in high speeds after rejetting. Im afraid the tube with the main jet comes loose on its own and the mixture gets extremely rich.

Also pics should help understanding OP's post.


Edit after 1 season of not riding:
So I got a new garage and decided to pull the carbs apart again. I found several problems this time with better equipment, lights and an actual manual. My idle sync cable was worn and rusty and sticked a bit. My rear carb main jet didn't have the sealing washer. This washer also holds the jet tube from falling into the throat. (which definitely was the main problem for my rear cyl being rich AF.) The screw for the vacuum port didn't have a seal. Front carbs diaphragm was almost toast. All in all I'm not pretty confident I'll get it to run after my parts arrive from abroad.