Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

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jrsaw27
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Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

Post by jrsaw27 »

Im riding a 96 1400. After being stranded at work a couple times I delved into this issue. Whenever I put the battery on the charger, the next day i have a solid voltage, As I Should! its brand new! While running it hovers around 13.2, when I gun it (To I guess 5000 RPM) the voltage drops to 12.5 and when I roll off the throttle it goes back up. Seems weird from all the discussions I have found here.

Next I pulled the seat off and tested the three yellow wires from the stator, I gun it pretty good and hold for a second and measure AC between the AB/AC/BC coils and get about 65. Maybe its not quite up to 5000RPM? Either way all three are nearly the same and do have continuity between each other but none are grounded.
My thoughts are next to pull off the R/R and test it, doesnt look too difficult. If that passes the Stator may be bad (i think it wasn't up to 5000RPM).
The R/R sits in front of the batt right? Is inspecting the stator difficult or time consuming? What are your thoughts?
-JRS
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Re: Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

Post by navigator »

An electrical guru should be along shortly.
IIRC the AC readings should be closer to 80v between legs.
65v seems low, JMO.

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hillsy
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Re: Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

Post by hillsy »

65V is low, but it's hard to say if you are revving it fully up to 5K.

Best thing to do right now is to clean all the connectors THOROUGHLY and see if that makes a difference - charging going down with revs can indicate bad connections / wiring. Also double check the terminals on the battery are clean and tight.

If that doesn't change anything then the next cheapest thing to replace is the RR.

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Herb
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Re: Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

Post by Herb »

The book calls for 80 vac WITH the suzuki tester. I have never been able to get a reading over 70 with any meter, even with a brand new stator.

You shouldn't have to remove the regulator for the testing, the connectors you need are accessible with it installed. The instructions are on page 7-4 of the manual that is pinned at the top of this page forum.

I had an issue with low charge and the system checked out good BUT I had resistance when I read the ground from the regulator back into the bike's system. I couldn't find the the tie point easily so I tapped off of the ground wire between the connector and the regulator then ran it direct to the negative terminal of the battery.

This brought my low speed voltage up to about 14 and my high speed voltage up to 13.2/3 and I have not had an issue with the battery staying charged since.

One thing that you want to make sure of is that the connectors are good and clean, any resistance in them will keep the system from working correctly.

Almost forgot to add. The DC charging voltage will drop some when the bike is reved up, at least both of mine always have.
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jrsaw27
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Re: Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

Post by jrsaw27 »

Yes that was what I was reading from a few other discussions, The connectors looked ok but I scraped it off with a good flat head, wiped it with some cleaner, and made sure the female side of the plug wasn't too loose, crimped a little tighter to be sure and packed it with some dielectric grease to keep the moisture out, just in case that was the issue. Tested and have the same results.Dang that would have been real easy if that was the issue.

Herb, The ground you speak of is the ground from the RR?
Im about to go pull the RR and check it just to be sure (Thank goodness for youtube) And Ill make sure there is a good ground from the connector/RR.
-JRS
"Organization, although not always evident, is unique to one's own perspective."

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hillsy
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Re: Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

Post by hillsy »

Ideally, this is how you want the wiring:

Image

As short and direct as possible....however it's a good idea to run a 40A fuse in line with the charging wire to the +ve terminal of the battery.

jrsaw27
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Re: Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

Post by jrsaw27 »

I took off the RR an it was so dirty and covered in asphalt but passed the diode test on the multimeter scoring 592-601 one way and 617-621 the other way. The connector for the RR was visible just under the rear fender, right where mud, water, dirt, and debris could attack it right off the tire but it surprisingly looked ok. It had a little thin corrosion but not much. What should I check next? the RR numbers look good and stator was alright...should I go ahead and look at replacing the stator? Just your opinion?
-JRS
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jrsaw27
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Re: Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

Post by jrsaw27 »

Im going to head back out and trace the red/blk wires from the RR and see if the connector to the RR have the same AC readings....
-JRS
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Herb
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Re: Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

Post by Herb »

hillsy wrote:Ideally, this is how you want the wiring:

Image

As short and direct as possible....however it's a good idea to run a 40A fuse in line with the charging wire to the +ve terminal of the battery.
Dude, you left out the monitor wire that feeds back the system voltage, and the system uses a 25 amp on the main which is also the protection from an overcharge.
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jrsaw27
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Re: Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

Post by jrsaw27 »

Cant seem to figure it out...I let it charge untill smart charger tells me its full, 12.71V; rode it 20 mins on HWY and streets, parked and checked voltage: 12.77V. Maybe Im just chasing ghosts or maybe it was a combination of the connectors that just needed to be shaken loose.

Either way the real test is the commute to work tomorrow, we'll see....
-JRS
"Organization, although not always evident, is unique to one's own perspective."

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hillsy
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Re: Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

Post by hillsy »

Herb wrote:
hillsy wrote:Ideally, this is how you want the wiring:

Image

As short and direct as possible....however it's a good idea to run a 40A fuse in line with the charging wire to the +ve terminal of the battery.
Dude, you left out the monitor wire that feeds back the system voltage, and the system uses a 25 amp on the main which is also the protection from an overcharge.
1400 must be different to the 1500 then - no monitor wire on the 1500.

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Herb
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Re: Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

Post by Herb »

hillsy wrote:
Herb wrote:
hillsy wrote:Ideally, this is how you want the wiring:

Image

As short and direct as possible....however it's a good idea to run a 40A fuse in line with the charging wire to the +ve terminal of the battery.
Dude, you left out the monitor wire that feeds back the system voltage, and the system uses a 25 amp on the main which is also the protection from an overcharge.
1400 must be different to the 1500 then - no monitor wire on the 1500.
Don't know about the 1500's. I do know about the 1400's, They have an orange black wire that brings power back into the regulator from the output side of the ignition switch, to tell the regulator what the voltage in the system is.

Here's the link to the information.

http://www.intruders-alert.com/viewtopi ... =10&t=3338
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hillsy
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Re: Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

Post by hillsy »

You can replace the RR with a 5 wire one and do away with the sensor wire then. Pretty much what they did on the 1500.

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Herb
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Re: Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

Post by Herb »

hillsy wrote:You can replace the RR with a 5 wire one and do away with the sensor wire then. Pretty much what they did on the 1500.
So just cut off the extra hot wire? What about the fit? The 1500 Regulator isn't even shaped the same, doesn't fit in the same place and costs about the same.
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hillsy
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Re: Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

Post by hillsy »

Herb wrote:
hillsy wrote:You can replace the RR with a 5 wire one and do away with the sensor wire then. Pretty much what they did on the 1500.
So just cut off the extra hot wire? What about the fit? The 1500 Regulator isn't even shaped the same, doesn't fit in the same place and costs about the same.
The point is you can fit a 5 wire RR in the wiring set-up as per the pic I posted above. A series RR (SH775 or Polaris) is the best of the best as they put no stress on the stator like a shunt RR does.

Here is how you do it on an LC/C90:

Image

The idea is to keep the wiring as short as possible and (preferably) solder the wires in place.

And sorry - it's a 30A fuse, not a 40A like I said earlier.

For what it's worth, I moved the RR on my LC from under the fake transmission cover to out in the breeze:

Image

Some guys bolt them to the front of the battery box, but when I tried that the mudguard (fender) hit it under braking.

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Herb
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Re: Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

Post by Herb »

While the install on the 1500 looks good, it does not apply to a 1400.

The price of the regulator for both bikes is the same. I bought my first 1400 in 1989, put over 150,000 miles on it, never changed a regulator. Bought my 2nd 1400, a 99, in 2005, it had 8,600 miles on it. The 99 is now over 220,000 miles and still has the original regulator on it.

Considering where the battery is on the 1400, where are you going to put the weird shaped regulator?

So what would be the point in changing from a stock regulator?

It's too bad that there isn't someone close with a 1400 to swap out the regulator as a test before paying almost $190 for the regulator.
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hillsy
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Re: Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

Post by hillsy »

The regulator you see in my pic cost $20 AUD brand new. Worked fine until I sold the LC.

That might be the rub.

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Pvt_Nemesis
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Re: Test/ Replace Stator or R/R?

Post by Pvt_Nemesis »

Try RMStator - I was impressed with service and cost. Replaced Stator and reg/rec though only stator was required (so now have a spare reg/rec)
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