Intruders-Alert

Your pump is faulty it is failing once it feels pressure, a common prob with ticker pumps.

Lechy you do not synch with the cables you synch idle against the rear idle stop and the balance cable or synch cable that will sych the front carb to the back.
The throttle cable are nothing to do with it at this point.

After synching you then make sure both cables raise the butterfly at the same time.

You can then synch partial throttle synch which is never mentioned here as it depends of quadrant diameter and or diam of the cable.

You can then syncj full throttle synch which is achieved by crimping the final lift of the quadrant to give both quadrants full throttle.

Synching can be as easy or difficult as you want but these extremes are way out of every ones league here.

most people just idle sycnh and leave it at that but try raising rpm and you will lose you mid range synch,--it doesnt matter.

The local part store has a generic edelbrock pump that puts out 3.5 psi of pressure, is that ok to swap out? Assuming it physically fits into the same area...

Fred, you are a dickhead, STFU.

Lechy wrote:Fred, you are a dickhead, STFU.

Well if you don't know then you don't know. Its not my fault.

You dont synch with the throttle cables you know that so what the fuck you talking about.

Fred wrote:

Lechy wrote:Fred, you are a dickhead, STFU.

Well if you don't know then you don't know. Its not my fault.

You dont synch with the throttle cables you know that so what the fuck you talking about.

Wow. I bet your bastardized bike runs like shit, Fred. Have some more opium.

Forge wrote:

Fred wrote:

Lechy wrote:Fred, you are a dickhead, STFU.

Well if you don't know then you don't know. Its not my fault.

You dont synch with the throttle cables you know that so what the fuck you talking about.

Wow. I bet your bastardized bike runs like shit, Fred. Have some more opium.

Another fucking dick head that does 'nt know how to synch.

Ok go ahead and adjust your cables, don't you think they should be on the idle stops first.

Lechy wrote:Fred, you are a dickhead, STFU.

And not too bright either. It has been explained, many times, about the part throttle sync, on this board.

Considering that this thread is about a low idle issue, worry about the midrange sync is not the subject. AND the mid range has nothing to do with the idle.

Oh, almost forgot, if the midrange sync is good, the full throttle sync will be good. Suzuki doesn't even mention a full-throttle sync.

Herb wrote:

Lechy wrote:Fred, you are a dickhead, STFU.

And not too bright either. It has been explained, many times, about the part throttle sync, on this board.

Considering that this thread is about a low idle issue, worry about the midrange sync is not the subject. AND the mid range has nothing to do with the idle.

Oh, almost forgot, if the midrange sync is good, the full throttle sync will be good. Suzuki doesn't even mention a full-throttle sync.

Now, now. Remember. Fred does it all by ear. He's that good. Now whether or not his hearing is any better than his geography, who knows? Perhaps the opium helps him to see the sync and become one with it!

Herb wrote:

Lechy wrote:Fred, you are a dickhead, STFU.

And not too bright either. It has been explained, many times, about the part throttle sync, on this board.

Considering that this thread is about a low idle issue, worry about the midrange sync is not the subject. AND the mid range has nothing to do with the idle.

Oh, almost forgot, if the mi range sync is good, the full throttle sync will be good. Suzuki doesn't even mention a full-throttle sync.

No it does not That is what I said isnt it. So if mid range is good full will be good ---really.

When I worked for Castrol Malaysia prepairing bikes for race we would use a rolling road and synch all the way up to full throttle or near as damn it.

And yes I used to be pretty good at carbs when I WORKED for RR and I was particulary good at the flat 12 Ferrari boxer with 6 double choke webers.

You need total calm and relaxation and put your hand on the engine and feel deep down, you must not be disturbed. So yes syching a twin by ear is not a problem.

I hate doing this but--Just to remind forge AMIMI --IRTE-- f-tech--mech E. there is more but you get the point.,

I am not a HVAC contractor or work on an oil ri so if you want to talk about any of that I am out......

Oh Phred, the proper sync is done with both the sync cable and the throttle cable.
First you get slack at the grip, and set your idle speed.
Then you sync the idle with the sync cable.
Next you use the grip to raise the rpm to ~2000 to 2500 rpm and hold it steady...you adjust the throttle cable on the front carb to pull equal vacuum.
Finally set the proper slack at the grip.
Done.
You do not sync at WOT, and you indeed do use the throttle cable.
All those letters behind your name are as impressive as LMNOP.
I feel sorry for the new members here who actually heed your advice.

navigator wrote:Oh Phred, the proper sync is done with both the sync cable and the throttle cable.
First you get slack at the grip, and set your idle speed.
Then you sync the idle with the sync cable.
Next you use the grip to raise the rpm to ~2000 to 2500 rpm and hold it steady...you adjust the throttle cable on the front carb to pull equal vacuum.
Finally set the proper slack at the grip.
Done.
You do not sync at WOT, and you indeed do use the throttle cable.
All those letters behind your name are as impressive as LMNOP.
I feel sorry for the new members here who actually heed your advice.

I can live with that, you START at the bottom --and that is idle synch using as you say the idle sych cable. Then you synch the 2 cable opening the throttle, you cant start in the middle. On race bike where you need every last ounce of Hp you need to synch all the way up.

My bastardized bike has no snych cable, there what you think about that. I have other methods and it idles like a fking Cadilac.

The synch cable is the most stupid Synch system I have ever seen. It is not accurate or reliable. As soon as you replace the tank there is different tension on the cables, crap Idea and contributory to the demize of the Inturder.
I can synch my bike at the traffic lights while sitting on it. I have two throttle idle set screws and 2 idle mix screws that are accessible by a knurled knob extruding from under the tank of the front and just at the back of the tank on the rear. I have written about this but no one gives a shit--over theie heads.

But I cant Synch the throttle crack sync but my splitter is close to the handle bars and if it cocks slighty to one side than I know it is out, but it is not the stock plastic crap but an alluminium type bought in UK.

You can also hear it by just cracking the throttle by the smallest amount and you may hear one cylinder pull more than the other. That is what I call cracking synch.

Ive done this all my life. 50 years of motor trade.

You have a chrome kitchen sink trap where your tank used to be, glad this all works for you.

navigator wrote:You have a chrome kitchen sink trap where your tank used to be, glad this all works for you.

That is a single carb manifold that I made once. I can see your losing interest,--- thanks.

Damn, not really sure how this all took off in this direction!

Sundevil36 wrote:Damn, not really sure how this all took off in this direction!

Phred will soon be along to 'splain it to you.
Bottom line is you may need to replace your fuel pump and possibly sync your carbs.

Replaced the fuel pump, still starts and runs for a few seconds but still dies.

Sundevil36 wrote:Replaced the fuel pump, still starts and runs for a few seconds but still dies.

Then blo out all fuel lines and any filters you may have. Check your pipes are not kinked.Remove tank and tank pet cock and clean the fuel strainer.

Remove carbs and needle an seat assy and clean the tine gauze behind seat,

You are not getting fuel --get some fuel to it and it will run.

The reason the rear runs and the front don't is that the fuel will flow to the the carbs if there is enough in the tank.

difficult to pin point on the internet but get some fuel to it.

Ok I got fuel going to the front carb, it will now kind of idle stable, but will not run on just the front cylinder. Rear cylinder gets hot, front does but WAY slower than the rear. Like barely warm when the front is hot hot hot.

Clean plugs or better Change plugs for new ---or-- you could swap cylinders and see if you can move the problem.

If the front cyl has not been firing the plug will be in terrible condition.

When you are sure both plugs are firing then check your sync.

Forget the sync tube and all that shit just get a pipe about 2 feet long by 1 inch diam --any garden hose will do and listen to the intake hiss. Adjust up till same on both carbs.

Checked the plugs, they look a little bit fouled probably from burning up what was in the cylinder. But not much. Both plugs are firing. I don't see the a/f screw cover that you have to drill/tap out, I'm sure I'm just not looking in the exact spot.