Missing in action (1400 that is!!)

[m2h]

In the middle of the alternator cover is a plug, maybe slotted may have an allen fitment, remove this, you will then see a 17 mm head use this to turn the engine over CCW otherwise you will engage the starter sprag and think that the bottom is falling out of the engine. On the front of the cover is another small plug, this is the view port for the timing marks you will see 2 indications, FFT & RFT when you see these marks the piston is at TDC either on fire or exhaust. These marks are used for valve lash checks.
Don't forget to put the plugs back before firing the machine up, you will be astounded as to how much oil will fly out and how far it travels. (experience talking).

[emoji41]

Not on the 1400.

^ True. I just finished sorting things. Put the bike in top gear and tweaked the back wheel til i was sure the piston was just on comp stroke and put in the adapter and pressure on -> air coming out the air box Bad inlet v/v. Must be minor as it wasn't chuffing thru carb when running. Probably enough compression when firing to give some sealing. No doubt explains 99.9% of the miss issue. Unfortunately it couldn't pressure up to check rings, hope they're ok
Oh well, motor out then
Thanks for all the input guys will keep a report goin

[Herb]

These are hydraulic lash adjusters. probably one of them has gone bad and is plugged up so that it can't bleed down.
Since the 2 intake valves are on the same cam lobe and rocker that is a y shape, it is either a valve that is burnt, sticking or a bad lash adjuster. What it does mean is that the engine will probably have to come out of the frame because there isn't enough room to get the valve cover off.

[Lechy]

In the middle of the alternator cover is a plug, maybe slotted may have an allen fitment, remove this, you will then see a 17 mm head use this to turn the engine over CCW otherwise you will engage the starter sprag and think that the bottom is falling out of the engine. On the front of the cover is another small plug, this is the view port for the timing marks you will see 2 indications, FFT & RFT when you see these marks the piston is at TDC either on fire or exhaust. These marks are used for valve lash checks.
Don't forget to put the plugs back before firing the machine up, you will be astounded as to how much oil will fly out and how far it travels. (experience talking).

[emoji41]

Not on the 1400.

Oops, you're right, I'm wrong. I forgot we were dealing with the Big Brother.
My apologies.

[emoji41]

[Herb]

In the middle of the alternator cover is a plug, maybe slotted may have an allen fitment, remove this, you will then see a 17 mm head use this to turn the engine over CCW otherwise you will engage the starter sprag and think that the bottom is falling out of the engine. On the front of the cover is another small plug, this is the view port for the timing marks you will see 2 indications, FFT & RFT when you see these marks the piston is at TDC either on fire or exhaust. These marks are used for valve lash checks.
Don't forget to put the plugs back before firing the machine up, you will be astounded as to how much oil will fly out and how far it travels. (experience talking).

[emoji41]

Not on the 1400.

Oops, you're right, I'm wrong. I forgot we were dealing with the Big Brother.
My apologies.

[emoji41]

Nothing to apologize for. It is easy to get mixed up between bikes.

[m2h]

These are hydraulic lash adjusters. probably one of them has gone bad and is plugged up so that it can't bleed down.
Since the 2 intake valves are on the same cam lobe and rocker that is a y shape, it is either a valve that is burnt, sticking or a bad lash adjuster. What it does mean is that the engine will probably have to come out of the frame because there isn't enough room to get the valve cover off.

Thanks Herb, yep after all i've done i think you're right, sadly. It must be the inner v/v as it cannot be seen thru the plug hole.
What i could see of the near one it was opening ok and the face looked clean. I am wondering if Lechy's oil flush is worth a shot as a last resort. Not keen but could be a go. Going to town tomorrow so maybe i'll get a bottle. Keep you posted.

[Herb]

These are hydraulic lash adjusters. probably one of them has gone bad and is plugged up so that it can't bleed down.
Since the 2 intake valves are on the same cam lobe and rocker that is a y shape, it is either a valve that is burnt, sticking or a bad lash adjuster. What it does mean is that the engine will probably have to come out of the frame because there isn't enough room to get the valve cover off.

Thanks Herb, yep after all i've done i think you're right, sadly. It must be the inner v/v as it cannot be seen thru the plug hole.
What i could see of the near one it was opening ok and the face looked clean. I am wondering if Lechy's oil flush is worth a shot as a last resort. Not keen but could be a go. Going to town tomorrow so maybe i'll get a bottle. Keep you posted.

If it is the lash adjuster, the oil flush should help. If it is a sticking valve, it won't. Does the engine have a ticking noise when running? If so it might be a valve sticking and not closing completely. In this case spraying some penetrating oil, like PB Blaster really good in on the valve, and letting it sit for a while MIGHT free it up. Without the lead in the gas the valves get very little lubrication. I run about 2 oz of marvel mystery oil in every other tank of gas for valve lube, intake and cylinder head cleaning, and to help keep the exhaust from rusting out.

[m2h]

These are hydraulic lash adjusters. probably one of them has gone bad and is plugged up so that it can't bleed down.
Since the 2 intake valves are on the same cam lobe and rocker that is a y shape, it is either a valve that is burnt, sticking or a bad lash adjuster. What it does mean is that the engine will probably have to come out of the frame because there isn't enough room to get the valve cover off.

Thanks Herb, yep after all i've done i think you're right, sadly. It must be the inner v/v as it cannot be seen thru the plug hole.
What i could see of the near one it was opening ok and the face looked clean. I am wondering if Lechy's oil flush is worth a shot as a last resort. Not keen but could be a go. Going to town tomorrow so maybe i'll get a bottle. Keep you posted.

If it is the lash adjuster, the oil flush should help. If it is a sticking valve, it won't. Does the engine have a ticking noise when running? If so it might be a valve sticking and not closing completely. In this case spraying some penetrating oil, like PB Blaster really good in on the valve, and letting it sit for a while MIGHT free it up. Without the lead in the gas the valves get very little lubrication. I run about 2 oz of marvel mystery oil in every other tank of gas for valve lube, intake and cylinder head cleaning, and to help keep the exhaust from rusting out.

Hi again Herb, No there's no lifter tapping that is audible. My Isuzu bighorn has one that annoys the shit out of me so i know what it sounds like. I got a bottle of Flush today and was going to warm the bike up but battery is too low after mucking about earlier.
The manual says not to overfill the oil so i think i'll drop out 250ml before i put the flush in. It says on the bottle 300ml in up to 6litres of oil. It's pretty thin i hope it will be ok. Maybe 200ml in the 4litres would do.?

[Herb]

These are hydraulic lash adjusters. probably one of them has gone bad and is plugged up so that it can't bleed down.
Since the 2 intake valves are on the same cam lobe and rocker that is a y shape, it is either a valve that is burnt, sticking or a bad lash adjuster. What it does mean is that the engine will probably have to come out of the frame because there isn't enough room to get the valve cover off.

Thanks Herb, yep after all i've done i think you're right, sadly. It must be the inner v/v as it cannot be seen thru the plug hole.
What i could see of the near one it was opening ok and the face looked clean. I am wondering if Lechy's oil flush is worth a shot as a last resort. Not keen but could be a go. Going to town tomorrow so maybe i'll get a bottle. Keep you posted.

If it is the lash adjuster, the oil flush should help. If it is a sticking valve, it won't. Does the engine have a ticking noise when running? If so it might be a valve sticking and not closing completely. In this case spraying some penetrating oil, like PB Blaster really good in on the valve, and letting it sit for a while MIGHT free it up. Without the lead in the gas the valves get very little lubrication. I run about 2 oz of marvel mystery oil in every other tank of gas for valve lube, intake and cylinder head cleaning, and to help keep the exhaust from rusting out.

Hi again Herb, No there's no lifter tapping that is audible. My Isuzu bighorn has one that annoys the shit out of me so i know what it sounds like. I got a bottle of Flush today and was going to warm the bike up but battery is too low after mucking about earlier.
The manual says not to overfill the oil so i think i'll drop out 250ml before i put the flush in. It says on the bottle 300ml in up to 6litres of oil. It's pretty thin i hope it will be ok. Maybe 200ml in the 4litres would do.?

Sounds about right.

[m2h]

Well guys i may have dodged a bullet! Did an engine oil flush this morning. Put in 200mls of flush oil after draining some out of the hot motor and got it going again. It was running like a bag of shit. Firing on one and then both, and i had to sit on the throttle to keep it going around 1000rpm. Bottle said to idle for 10-15 mins. After about 12mins of riding the revs it started to even out
after 18 mins it was pretty stable. I adjusted the a/f screws and it was running really good. Changed the oil and filter, let it idle for 5 mins to make sure it got the good oil thru. Took it for a run, no miss at steady slow speed, no miss at steady 60mph.
On the home straight 60mph and gave it wot to 100 and had one little miss right there! At this point i am a happy camper [emoji106]
Thank you all for the tips and tricks

[Lechy]

Happy day's.

[emoji41]

[m2h]

Happy day's.

[emoji41]

OH YEAH!!!!! [emoji2] [emoji106]

[Herb]

Glad to hear the inexpensive simple thing fixed it.

[m2h]

Glad to hear the inexpensive simple thing fixed it.

Me too [emoji106] I will keep holding my breath tho til i get a longer run out of it. One thingwas a bit concerning, before when i did a comp test i had 115 on the rear and 150 front. After the post oil change run i did another test hoping to see a more even reading ( hopefully 150/150) but no 100/100 My tester has a rubber end on it and it's abit cracked so i wrapped some elect tape round it. I'm telling myself thats the reason Bike is going well so will worry when it turns to shit!! Bugger!! it just came to me...... duh..... forgot to wind the throttle wide open. Pooooos That makes me feel abit better. The readings were even which is encouraging. Will do em again after a good run.

[Spacecoast]

For now I would claim success and just ride. Pulling plugs in/out will only result in a stripped hole. No need for that. Run a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas to help lube the top end.