Aftermarket Run/Stop Switch?

[Krewzer85]

Hello everyone,
Long story short, someone before me has broken the internals of the Run/Stop switch on my Vs1400 and did a crap repair. There seems to be zero places that still sell new OEM switches, and used parts over here in Germany are ridiculous. I’m not paying $300 for one used switch.
What are the options for aftermarket switches? I’m asking because while I am willing to do it, wiring is my least favorite thing when it comes to wrenching. So I would like to know that whatever aftermarket switch I buy, will work. All I can seem to find are JUST the run/start/stop switch. My original switch also has the headlight switch on it.
Thanks in advance for any help.

[sgtcall]

Hello everyone,
Long story short, someone before me has broken the internals of the Run/Stop switch on my Vs1400 and did a crap repair. There seems to be zero places that still sell new OEM switches, and used parts over here in Germany are ridiculous. I’m not paying $300 for one used switch.
What are the options for aftermarket switches? I’m asking because while I am willing to do it, wiring is my least favorite thing when it comes to wrenching. So I would like to know that whatever aftermarket switch I buy, will work. All I can seem to find are JUST the run/start/stop switch. My original switch also has the headlight switch on it.
Thanks in advance for any help.

Here is a stock switch for $111.04, not sure how shipping would work. I am sure there is an aftermarket switch that would work.
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SWITCH ASSY, HANDLE RH | MODEL T 37200-38BD1

What part of Germany are you in?

[Krewzer85]

Thanks! I’ll look it up. I have a USPS address over here, so as long as they’re willing to ship to APO, I can usually order it.
I’m near Grafenwoehr. Usually anyone that’s been in the Army long enough where that is located. I on the other hand am just a government civilian.

[Herb]

I never use the run/stop switch. That's what the ignition switch is for.

I even rewired the ignition switch so that the "park" setting is no longer there. Key on, everything works ,key off or in park everything is off. I don't like dead batteries.

[hillsy v2]

If you are OK with a bit of rewiring pretty much any metric cruiser with 1 inch bars will have the same setup - just different wiring colours.

I've not seem a plug and play aftermarket switchblock / throttle for the VS so unless you want to go custom you're probably out of luck with that idea.

[sgtcall]

If you need to fid other bikes with the same size bars look here. http://sideroadcycles.com/importedmotor ... rsOne.html

I've been to Graf more time than I can remember. Beautiful country out there as long as you get far away from the ranges. Amberg used to have a really nice Christmas market that was one of the best in the country for the smaller towns. I also loved New Years in Germany, it was like a war zone on the street, fireworks flying everywhere and the drink flowed freely.

[Krewzer85]

I managed to puzzle the broken switch back together for the most part. It's the little block inside for the headlight switch that was broken into three pieces. Now the issue I'm having is figuring out how the wires are supposed to be tucked/routed into the tiny amount of space that is there in order for two halves of the housing to sit flush against the bar again. Ive done it before, but I can not get it this time. I guess I could just take the two wires out for the Run/Stop switch and bypass the switch. That would make more room. I just don't know the legality of something like that over here. Thanks all for your input.

[sgtcall]

The headlight bucket is just packed and you have to take your time getting everything back into it. It is a PIA but it can be done.

[hillsy v2]

The headlight bucket is just packed and you have to take your time getting everything back into it. It is a PIA but it can be done.

He's talking about getting the swithblock wiring back in the switchblock so it can go back on the handlebars.

[hillsy v2]

I managed to puzzle the broken switch back together for the most part. It's the little block inside for the headlight switch that was broken into three pieces. Now the issue I'm having is figuring out how the wires are supposed to be tucked/routed into the tiny amount of space that is there in order for two halves of the housing to sit flush against the bar again. Ive done it before, but I can not get it this time. I guess I could just take the two wires out for the Run/Stop switch and bypass the switch. That would make more room. I just don't know the legality of something like that over here. Thanks all for your input.

Pretty sure from a legal perspective it's mandatory everywhere to have a functioning killswitch which can be operated with your hands still on the bars.

Would only be an issue if you had to have the bike inspected or up for sale I guess - but I wouldn't recommend doing away with it.