OEM Hardware, Oil Cooler
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OEM Hardware, Oil Cooler
Guess I could make 2 separate topics but since they're basic questions I'll just combine them.
The VS800 is water cooled with a radiator. The 1400 is oil cooled. Is there a seperate reservoir that I need to change the oil for the oil cooler or does the oil come from the primary case. If it does it seems like a way simpler design then the 800 has. Why even make a bike water cooled vs oil cooled in the first place?
My second question is in regards to OEM hardware. What type of metal is it and is it okay to use stuff from the hardware store? I'm assuming if the wrong type of hardware is used it could cause corrosion. I think that's why I had issues removing the bolts from the handlebar risers on both bikes I'm working on. The bolts coming off the bikes had a black finish, same as the ones I picked up from the hardware store. He head M8x1.25 bolts. I bought OEM hardware for my VS800, I think the riser bolts looked like they where stainless steal or had a chrome finish.
The VS800 is water cooled with a radiator. The 1400 is oil cooled. Is there a seperate reservoir that I need to change the oil for the oil cooler or does the oil come from the primary case. If it does it seems like a way simpler design then the 800 has. Why even make a bike water cooled vs oil cooled in the first place?
My second question is in regards to OEM hardware. What type of metal is it and is it okay to use stuff from the hardware store? I'm assuming if the wrong type of hardware is used it could cause corrosion. I think that's why I had issues removing the bolts from the handlebar risers on both bikes I'm working on. The bolts coming off the bikes had a black finish, same as the ones I picked up from the hardware store. He head M8x1.25 bolts. I bought OEM hardware for my VS800, I think the riser bolts looked like they where stainless steal or had a chrome finish.
- sgtcall
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Re: OEM Hardware, Oil Cooler
The risers on my 1400 had black bolts that were stuck when I first got it. I started putting copper grease on them when I put them back in and never had that issue again. I think the moisture from rain gets down in there a corrodes them. FYI the only reason I went with copper grease was that I had some right there at the time. I am sure any good grease would do.Acton67 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 17, 2023 5:30 pmGuess I could make 2 separate topics but since they're basic questions I'll just combine them.
The VS800 is water cooled with a radiator. The 1400 is oil cooled. Is there a seperate reservoir that I need to change the oil for the oil cooler or does the oil come from the primary case. If it does it seems like a way simpler design then the 800 has. Why even make a bike water cooled vs oil cooled in the first place?
My second question is in regards to OEM hardware. What type of metal is it and is it okay to use stuff from the hardware store? I'm assuming if the wrong type of hardware is used it could cause corrosion. I think that's why I had issues removing the bolts from the handlebar risers on both bikes I'm working on. The bolts coming off the bikes had a black finish, same as the ones I picked up from the hardware store. He head M8x1.25 bolts. I bought OEM hardware for my VS800, I think the riser bolts looked like they where stainless steal or had a chrome finish.
If you have any type of electrical issue, have your battery load tested before you do anything else. Any auto parts store will test it for free.
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Re: OEM Hardware, Oil Cooler
Yours were probably bolts from the hardware store too. These are the OEM bolts.sgtcall wrote: ↑Fri Mar 17, 2023 5:38 pmThe risers on my 1400 had black bolts that were stuck when I first got it. I started putting copper grease on them when I put them back in and never had that issue again. I think the moisture from rain gets down in there a corrodes them. FYI the only reason I went with copper grease was that I had some right there at the time. I am sure any good grease would do.Acton67 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 17, 2023 5:30 pmGuess I could make 2 separate topics but since they're basic questions I'll just combine them.
The VS800 is water cooled with a radiator. The 1400 is oil cooled. Is there a seperate reservoir that I need to change the oil for the oil cooler or does the oil come from the primary case. If it does it seems like a way simpler design then the 800 has. Why even make a bike water cooled vs oil cooled in the first place?
My second question is in regards to OEM hardware. What type of metal is it and is it okay to use stuff from the hardware store? I'm assuming if the wrong type of hardware is used it could cause corrosion. I think that's why I had issues removing the bolts from the handlebar risers on both bikes I'm working on. The bolts coming off the bikes had a black finish, same as the ones I picked up from the hardware store. He head M8x1.25 bolts. I bought OEM hardware for my VS800, I think the riser bolts looked like they where stainless steal or had a chrome finish.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/115292491187
A few years ago I made a deck for a 14' aluminum vhull and turned it into a mini bass boat. The "tiny boat" community made a huge deal about never using stainless steal hardware on aluminum and if you did to use a product like tef-gel to prevent galvanic corrosion. I'm assuming the risers are aluminum.
- Herb
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Re: OEM Hardware, Oil Cooler
I use anti seize...
I can't seem to win the lottery. I think I have used up all of my good luck riding motorcycles.
- hillsy v2
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Re: OEM Hardware, Oil Cooler
With regards to water cooling versus air cooling - water cooling is simply much more efficient and effective (your 1400 is essentially air cooled - the oil cooler is there to keep the crankcase oil cool). You can extract more performance out of a water cooled engine - not so much because of the cooling - but because the engine temperature can be better managed, you can run closer tolerances on things like piston / ring clearances, valve clearances, etc.
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Re: OEM Hardware, Oil Cooler
So why did they only go with the water cooled system on the 800?hillsy v2 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 17, 2023 10:14 pmWith regards to water cooling versus air cooling - water cooling is simply much more efficient and effective (your 1400 is essentially air cooled - the oil cooler is there to keep the crankcase oil cool). You can extract more performance out of a water cooled engine - not so much because of the cooling - but because the engine temperature can be better managed, you can run closer tolerances on things like piston / ring clearances, valve clearances, etc.
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Re: OEM Hardware, Oil Cooler
Because the Larger Water Radiators are Feminine?
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Re: OEM Hardware, Oil Cooler
Those stock risers are chrome plated steel.
Using the black oxide coated bolts is fine, just use some anti-seize on them.
Zinc or Cadmium plated bolts are what the factory used, but any steel bolt is fine to use. Just get the correct grade. Most black oxide allen cap screws are grade 8. hex can be had in grades 2,5, or 8.
Stainless screws are softer and can cause galvanic reactions with aluminum parts.
The oil cooler drains back to the crankcase, so just change the engine oil.
Using the black oxide coated bolts is fine, just use some anti-seize on them.
Zinc or Cadmium plated bolts are what the factory used, but any steel bolt is fine to use. Just get the correct grade. Most black oxide allen cap screws are grade 8. hex can be had in grades 2,5, or 8.
Stainless screws are softer and can cause galvanic reactions with aluminum parts.
The oil cooler drains back to the crankcase, so just change the engine oil.
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Re: OEM Hardware, Oil Cooler
Excuse me, my VS800 identifies as male! I'm very offended.
Alright, good to know. That's something I've been curious about. What if the hardware in question needs thread lock because it's prone to coming loose? I know the bolts on the front brake caliper had that issue. I had a bunch of other loose hardware on the 800 last year after working on it. I used all OEM stuff and went back through and used thread lock. It added up though.navigator wrote: ↑Sat Mar 18, 2023 7:56 amThose stock risers are chrome plated steel.
Using the black oxide coated bolts is fine, just use some anti-seize on them.
Zinc or Cadmium plated bolts are what the factory used, but any steel bolt is fine to use. Just get the correct grade. Most black oxide allen cap screws are grade 8. hex can be had in grades 2,5, or 8.
Stainless screws are softer and can cause galvanic reactions with aluminum parts.
The oil cooler drains back to the crankcase, so just change the engine oil.
So the only fluids I need to change on the 1400 are the crankcase oil and the hypoid gear oil on the drive shaft correct?
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Re: OEM Hardware, Oil Cooler
AND the brake and clutch fluid.
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Re: OEM Hardware, Oil Cooler
Haha can't believe I forgot to mention those. Going to be running apes again on my 1400, going to the same place in Latham next week that you mentioned last year to get new cables made. I guess they're in a new location now. Heading to Bennington VT that day to register the bike as well.
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Re: OEM Hardware, Oil Cooler
Wow, hadn't realized they were moving. I would be bummed to show up at the old place needing something and find the vacant building.
If you like cannoli's, Bella Napoli Italian bakery on the corner just south of the new place has the BEST.
Depending on your schedule (and mine), I could meet you for a drink.
Send me a PM on with your plans.
If you like cannoli's, Bella Napoli Italian bakery on the corner just south of the new place has the BEST.
Depending on your schedule (and mine), I could meet you for a drink.
Send me a PM on with your plans.