Rear brake adjustment help

[hillsy v2]

Intruders quite often have poor charging at low RPM. It's the nature of a low revving engine with a crank mounted permanent magnet stator to not always put out enough AC voltage to be rectified.

.....I tested the rectifier but not the stator......

How did you test the RR? The money shot is really what DC voltage you are getting at the battery terminals when it's running. Around 13v when idling and 14-15v when revving are acceptable numbers. I suspect you are seeing under 13v at idle. Quite possibly your idle is too low.

[Designer]

I guess im being extra cautious, In that 1400 there are a bundle of wires behind that casing, I didnt want to cause a short,,,but hell, Im may be a little shell shocked from a few months ago with this bike shorting out, but I think I have that all solved

I understand your reasoning for caution, but with the 1400 and key off?.....No Worries!

ANother question regarding the headlight, a few months ago when I swapped the LED that was in there for a new one, when you started the bike the headlights were alwasy flickering/shuttering, they never stayed solid, today I pulled the LED out and put it a standard 55w halogen and no flicker,,,,I tested the rectifier but not the stator,,,,Im wondering if this consistent flicker was just something loose, I blew out all the connectors and secured the 3 prong female connector tighter to the back of light,,,,bike displays no other symptoms,,,,now it can feel more confident pulling the bulb out with trial and error till I find the bulb I like best

In addition to what Navigator mentions, do check your Idle speed. If it's below 1000 RPM, that's not desirable. These bikes have a Generator Charging System (not Alternator) and as they are made, do not charge much, if at all, at Idle. Thus, with a battery not fully charged ( right after starting) and a low Idle Speed, those things could be contributors why you experienced the LED Head Lamp flickering, but not any noticeable flickering with an Incandescent Bulb as you have now.

[thedaydreamer]

Ive been very meticulus with this bike, Idle is about 1000 -1100rpm
Factory pro MJs and PJs
Factory pro needle on 3rd position
K&N drop ins
Dynatek 3000
Cobra drags with big city thunder baffles
and of course designer springs on the bench - Will be installing soon

One things I have seen with this bike and its on another post nearly identical to mine, when the baffles come out of the drag pipes the bike flys if you tune it right, I have the dunlop d404s and dont like them, horrible wear,,,I have either the pirelli mt66, shinko77, or avon chrome under my radar

I knew little about this bike when I got it, I have taken the carbs out of this bike completely disemsembled every piece and cleaned it, reasembled and synced and tuned main jets and pilots,,,,,I have learned so much,,,but feel like I need to learn 20x more than I have already
I really enjoy this fourm and all the experience that is shared here

[sgtcall]

Another question, I am playing around with different headlights, everytime I take the headlight fixture off, I get the bike on the lift and disconnect the neg batt terminal,,PITA,,,,If im just pulling off the fixture and changing bulbs do I really need to disconnect the battery?
TY all

On the intruder the only way to lessen the PITA of getting to the battery is to make sure you always buy a battery that has the battery bolts on the sides not the top down or front facing ones.

[Designer]

Ive been very meticulus with this bike, Idle is about 1000 -1100rpm
Factory pro MJs and PJs
Factory pro needle on 3rd position
K&N drop ins
Dynatek 3000
Cobra drags with big city thunder baffles
and of course designer springs on the bench - Will be installing soon
One things I have seen with this bike and its on another post nearly identical to mine, when the baffles come out of the drag pipes the bike flys if you tune it right, I have the Dunlop d404s and don't like them, horrible wear,,,I have either the Pirelli mt66, shinko77, or Avon chrome under my radar
I knew little about this bike when I got it, I have taken the carbs out of this bike completely disassembled every piece and cleaned it, reassembled and synced and tuned main jets and pilots,,,,,I have learned so much,,,but feel like I need to learn 20x more than I have already
I really enjoy this fourm and all the experience that is shared here

And we enjoy your being here and posting !

One thing to keep in mind about the Baffles. When running mufflers without any, you often beget a "flat spot" in the power band in the midrange area. Why is often said to be because of a lack of 'back pressure". Wellllll,...that's a bit of a misconception really.

The issues is actually Reversion,....which is a Shock Wave that starts at the end of the Pipe and travels back up it and causes problems.
After much experimentation, I found the best solution to getting the Maximum Exhaust Flow AND the Power back is to use the Thunder Monster "baffle".

[thedaydreamer]

Designer
Yes, something funny, when I had all the upgrades in the bike, I lastly put in the cobra drags, I know you should put the pipes on first and them tune but I knew I was really close anyway, when I put those drags in they had the OEM baffles in, I did not like the sound nor did I like the power, I was disapointed,,,then driving down the road one of the baffles fell out, the bike got louder and I felt way more power, got back home took the other baffle out and it was nearly spot on, I think you can make the case that you could loose a little without the baffles, but it was still a beast without, then I put in the big city baffles, which are essentially are lollypops and I felt even more power for sure,,,,it seems in this setup this bike excels after 40 and 50mph, more in the top end of things, I have heard this with other intruders as well,,,,then I put the final tune on it, it runs smooth, , pulls hard in every gear, no backfire pops or hickups,,,

Can you verify in my earlier post in the manual on part #17, does this adjust brake tension?, I like my rear brakes a bit tighter it feel like I have to press the brake pedal too far down to engage,,,,, is it by #17 or something else?
TY all!

[sgtcall]

Designer
Yes, something funny, when I had all the upgrades in the bike, I lastly put in the cobra drags, I know you should put the pipes on first and them tune but I knew I was really close anyway, when I put those drags in they had the OEM baffles in, I did not like the sound nor did I like the power, I was disapointed,,,then driving down the road one of the baffles fell out, the bike got louder and I felt way more power, got back home took the other baffle out and it was nearly spot on, I think you can make the case that you could loose a little without the baffles, but it was still a beast without, then I put in the big city baffles, which are essentially are lollypops and I felt even more power for sure,,,,it seems in this setup this bike excels after 40 and 50mph, more in the top end of things, I have heard this with other intruders as well,,,,then I put the final tune on it, it runs smooth, , pulls hard in every gear, no backfire pops or hickups,,,

Can you verify in my earlier post in the manual on part #17, does this adjust brake tension?, I like my rear brakes a bit tighter it feel like I have to press the brake pedal too far down to engage,,,,, is it by #17 or something else?
TY all!

Rear brakes are just to hold you in place at a red light on a hill or for when you are about to take off. I only use the front brake for stopping power.

[hillsy v2]

Rear brakes are just to hold you in place at a red light on a hill or for when you are about to take off. I only use the front brake for stopping power.

Shhh.....don't tell this guy...

[sgtcall]

I test rode a bad ass Sportster 1000 once that didn't have a front brake. Cool bike but I couldn't handle the no front brake thing.

[thedaydreamer]

IS that hilsys bike?
Pretty sweet

SO, how do you go about adjusting the tension on the rear brake, is it 17?

[sgtcall]

IS that hilsys bike?
Pretty sweet

SO, how do you go about adjusting the tension on the rear brake, is it 17?

It's the Easy Rider Captain America bike.

I think #17 only adjusts the tension or position of the pedal. Since the brake is hydraulic I don't think you can adjust the brake tension.

[hillsy v2]

I'm guessing the spring #9 is the return spring for the pedal? Not sure if that is tension adjustable but you could probably fit a heavier one or fit 2 together if you want the pedal to come back more positively.

[Designer]

SO, how do you go about adjusting the tension on the rear brake, is it 17?

Wellllll,......... As SgtCall mentions, there's really not an adjustment for the Pedal Return Spring. (#9 in the diagram). That may be a Design fault, but it is what it is.

A big part of the pedals return-to-normal position is the Return Spring of the Pedal, along with the Piston Return Spring within the Master Cylinder. So to do as much as you can in that respect, I'd do what he said about checking your Brake Fluid for cleanliness/color, and keep the Brake Pedal Pivot lubricated as does Herb, with using PB'laster.

[hillsy v2]

SO, how do you go about adjusting the tension on the rear brake, is it 17?

Wellllll,......... As SgtCall mentions, there's really not an adjustment for the Pedal Return Spring. (#9 in the diagram). That may be a Design fault, but it is what it is.

What is the #9 spring then?

[navigator]

SO, how do you go about adjusting the tension on the rear brake, is it 17?

Wellllll,......... As SgtCall mentions, there's really not an adjustment for the Pedal Return Spring. (#9 in the diagram). That may be a Design fault, but it is what it is.

What is the #9 spring then?

I believe that spring runs up to the rear brake light, I could be wrong.

[hillsy v2]

SO, how do you go about adjusting the tension on the rear brake, is it 17?

Wellllll,......... As SgtCall mentions, there's really not an adjustment for the Pedal Return Spring. (#9 in the diagram). That may be a Design fault, but it is what it is.

What is the #9 spring then?

I believe that spring runs up to the rear brake light, I could be wrong.

Not too sure myself - from what I can gather some have a "normal" spring operated switch whilst some have a micro switch (like the clutch switch). Micro switches have inbuilt springs so the #9 spring in that application could only be a return spring for the pedal.