changing clutch out 1998 vs1400

[mikewalker]

Hey I need to know what needs to be stripped in what order. I have the clutch pads and heavy duty springs. Also have the exhaust gaskets.

first I will drain the oil. needs changing.


I assume you take off the pipes and the footrest and then open the cover. Do you need a cover gasket or can you re-use?

anybody know? I see stuff on youtube once the side cover is off but need more on how to get to the side cover.

Mike. USA

[hillsy v2]

Sometimes you can get the gasket off intact and re-use but in the grand scheme of things it's pretty cheap to get a new one - and there's a fair bit to remove again if it leaks so you want to get that right.

[sgtcall]

[YoutubeID][/YoutubeID]

[Designer]

Hey I need to know what needs to be stripped in what order. I have the clutch pads and heavy duty springs. Also have the exhaust gaskets. first I will drain the oil. needs changing.
I assume you take off the pipes and the footrest and then open the cover. Do you need a cover gasket or can you re-use?
anybody know? I see stuff on youtube once the side cover is off but need more on how to get to the side cover.
Mike. USA

Hi there,...mighty MIKE USA !

You are correct in that you will need to remove the Exhaust Pipe and Footpeg Bracket. Because the Rear Brake Master Cylinder/Brake Line are attached to the Bracket, most guys remove the Bracket Mounting Bolts on the Clutch side, but only loosen the Bolts on the other side, so as to "drop" the Bracket low enough to access the Chrome Side Cover.

I have not needed to replace the Gasket as careful removal has left it Intact. I do remove it and re-seal both sides of it with Permatex Sealant though.

Be sure to soak your Fiber Cutch Plates in oil at least over night.

[Herb]

Don't forget that the kickstand is attached to the footpeg bracket..

Don't even ask me why I said this.

[hillsy v2]

If you are going to use a sealer on the gasket then ThreeBond 1211 or equivalent is the best.

[Designer]

Don't forget that the kickstand is attached to the footpeg bracket.. Don't even ask me why I said this.

Wellsir,.......I've known Herb for around 15 years now,.....and I've got a pretty good idea as to why!

You see, Herb is one of those,...'dot every I, cross every T'...kinda guys. He's thorough and experienced,...and likes to make sure all contingencies are covered.
He posts his exactitude so that the advice given to others herein is Accurate, Concise and pointing you towards a Successful "Fix" to your problems.

He's JUST the kinda guy to listen to.

[vintruder]

Hey guys, I just did mine (Designer thank you for the springs!) I was the one who had a bolt broken on the clutch slave giving me problems. It's all fixed now and working great. Anyway my point for posting is I did NOT have to remove the footpeg bracket at all, nor did I have to jack up the bike. I see a lot of posts talking about what a pain that is, but I did not experience this problem. My bike is almost completely stock so maybe others have different things in the way ?

All I had to do was remove the header, then the bolts holding the rear brake on are accessible. Remove those and pull it up out of the way. Then there are all the bolts holding the clutch cover on which can all be accessed with various extensions/size sockets. From this point, follow Hagar's video for replacement, his video is great but it skips the above steps as his engine is off the bike. Installation is reverse of removal.

[vintruder]

Hey guys, I just did mine (Designer thank you for the springs!) I was the one who had a bolt broken on the clutch slave giving me problems. It's all fixed now and working great. Anyway my point for posting is I did NOT have to remove the footpeg bracket at all, nor did I have to jack up the bike. I see a lot of posts talking about what a pain that is, but I did not experience this problem. My bike is almost completely stock so maybe others have different things in the way ?

All I had to do was remove the header, then the bolts holding the rear brake on are accessible. Remove those and pull it up out of the way. Then there are all the bolts holding the clutch cover on which can all be accessed with various extensions/size sockets. From this point, follow Hagar's video for replacement, his video is great but it skips the above steps as his engine is off the bike. Installation is reverse of removal.

[hillsy v2]

Anyway my point for posting is I did NOT have to remove the footpeg bracket at all, nor did I have to jack up the bike. I see a lot of posts talking about what a pain that is, but I did not experience this problem. My bike is almost completely stock so maybe others have different things in the way ?

All I had to do was remove the header, then the bolts holding the rear brake on are accessible. Remove those and pull it up out of the way. Then there are all the bolts holding the clutch cover on which can all be accessed with various extensions/size sockets. From this point, follow Hagar's video for replacement, his video is great but it skips the above steps as his engine is off the bike. Installation is reverse of removal.

Nice

[Designer]

Most excellent!

Glad you were able to do the job without the removal/loosening of the Footpeg Bracket.

IIRC, that was something that was done by Board Members back on the Purple Board.

I have Forward Controls, so I didn't have to do this job with the stock Bracket in place.

When you get a chance, could you give us an Update on your "New 1400" after the Springs installed?

[vintruder]

Absolutely and sorry for the double post before. She rides like a dream and screams like a banshee ! Seriously, shifting is much easier, almost effortless. There is no clunking into gear or slip that I can tell, especially at the high end, although I still need to take her for a good long highway run. But I have several roads around here with no traffic at the right times of day where I can run up to 70-80 mph in no time and then coast back down, plus small hills & turns etc. I installed a mini-tach I bought off Amazon and she stays smooth through the rpm range. I also can hit neutral at any time with no fumbling about, that used to be almost impossible unless stopped. The clutch lever is definitely tighter but not anything to worry about, I'm already used to it.

Thanks to Designer for the springs, and him, Hillsy, and Herb and everyone else for their wisdom and support. Now onto the next project....probably replacing the fork oil & seals. Thats's about the last major thing I have not done yet to make her "new". When I get a some time I will write up my story of rescuing this "diamond in the rough" from rusting away in somebody's garage and restoring her to the beautiful beast that she is. I have learned some interesting things along the way that could certainly help out. And again, I could not do it without all the wisdom here so thanks !!!

[mikebet45]

Don't forget that the kickstand is attached to the footpeg bracket..

Don't even ask me why I said this.

I almost forgot that small detail myself but at the last second had a flash of recognition and a premonition of looming disaster.

[Herb]

Don't forget that the kickstand is attached to the footpeg bracket..

Don't even ask me why I said this.

I almost forgot that small detail myself but at the last second had a flash of recognition and a premonition of looming disaster.

Mine wasn't a total disaster but it came damn close...

Sometimes a great notion, isn't.

[mikebet45]

I posted this before on a thread when I was having a problem getting the clutch to disengage after putting in new friction discs. Be aware that some eBay-sourced kits may not work properly. The bike would lurch and stall when the shifted into first with the lever pulled so clearly the clutch was not fully disengaging. As soon as a I installed a set of discs from another company the clutch worked without problem. The first set of discs were obviously too thick to allow full disengagement. If I had saved a few of the old friction discs to mix in with the new set the first time it probably would gave saved me the expense of buying the second set.

[mikewalker]

I am still fighting with the dmv to get the plates. Its been a year of back and forth with the tax collecting jerks. On to the big clutch job. So I have to drop the foot rest. I hate that thing. no kickstand once that comes off. basically i have all the parts gaskets etc. still waiting for the plates if i can't register it I'll just sell it and find something else.

mw

[Herb]

I am still fighting with the dmv to get the plates. Its been a year of back and forth with the tax collecting jerks. On to the big clutch job. So I have to drop the foot rest. I hate that thing. no kickstand once that comes off. basically i have all the parts gaskets etc. still waiting for the plates if i can't register it I'll just sell it and find something else.

mw

I have pulled a clutch apart on a bike that had been slipping for 5000 miles and was really bad, when I miked the disks they were at the same measurements as new ones.

[mikewalker]

I am still fighting with the dmv to get the plates. Its been a year of back and forth with the tax collecting jerks. On to the big clutch job. So I have to drop the foot rest. I hate that thing. no kickstand once that comes off. basically i have all the parts gaskets etc. still waiting for the plates if i can't register it I'll just sell it and find something else.

mw

I have pulled a clutch apart on a bike that had been slipping for 5000 miles and was really bad, when I miked the disks they were at the same measurements as new ones.

I can't say I'm surprised. My works fine and has been slipping since i have owned it. I have only put on 1000 miles. After hearing everyone else and the way it slips. I suspect they all do this. I would be willing to be if i mike the plates they are around 60% The bike has 21000 miles on him. The clutch is the main reason but I also have new exhaust tips and gaskets for the exhaust. It all works together so this is the time to do all the work at once. Also needs oil. Odds are this will be my winter project. Runs good enough to make it through summer. I have already replaced the bars fixed the clutch and brakes then put on a new front tire. Cleaned the carbs. works good.

[Lechy]

Using the wrong oil is the cause of 90% of Intruder's clutch slipping. Do not use any fancy oils in these machines, they are low spec bikes designed to run on low spec oils and fuel. Straight dino oil for diesel engines with a 10w-50 multi grading is what the engines were designed for. A set of Designer's or EBC clutch springs will make a very pronounced improvement over OEM springs.

[Herb]

Using the wrong oil is the cause of 90% of Intruder's clutch slipping. Do not use any fancy oils in these machines, they are low spec bikes designed to run on low spec oils and fuel. Straight dino oil for diesel engines with a 10w-50 multi grading is what the engines were designed for. A set of Designer's or EBC clutch springs will make a very pronounced improvement over OEM springs.

The owners manual calls for 10w40 dino oil. Tried the 15w40 and got lifter clatter on start. Espcially in cooler weather.

I isn't the oil that is the issue with these bikes, it is the fact that the stock springs are junk.

I would be willing to bet that the plates will mike out at better than 90% of original.