Safety Relay Removal / Reduction (minimalism)

[Aequitas4]

I found some pics from an 01 loom on eBay - I think your wiring is correct with the black wire being in slot #2

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165396273704?e ... SweLViOd7D

That's awesome. I had searched around ebay harnesses but hadn't found anything that clear. I appreciate you taking the time to dig deeper through the ebay pics than I was willing to. I don't care what the guys on here say about you you're the man.

[Designer]

Good! We're making progress.

Now that the Pin location/Wiring has been figured out, have you had any success with finding a New Ignitor from the Ebay/Boneyard source?

[Herb]

I used to have a drawing of the connectors on the newer ignitor, with the wire colors marked, but I can't seem to find it... A few years ago my computer crashed and I lost a whole bunch of stuff that ended up being unrecoverable.

I don't remember if it was before or after the boost sensor was added.

Actually, I had an 87 and knew that there was a newer unit.

BTW, I have a pdf of the shop manual for 88 to 2006 and the wiring diagram I posted is on my computer, it is downloadable and can be enlarged or printed.

If you need a copy of the manual let me know and I will send it to you.

[Aequitas4]

Got the new ignition module. Hopefully plugging her in tonight while being careful not to jumper any wrong wires again!

[Designer]

Got the new ignition module. Hopefully plugging her in tonight while being careful not to jumper any wrong wires again!

Got my fingers crossed.

You've got quite a "Full Plate" of issues there,...hope this is going to be a Step Up from where you were on March 22nd after your catastrophic Ride.

Did you get to locate your,..R/R...so you can test it?

[hillsy]

I don't care what the guys on here say about you you're the man.

Haha - that gave me a laugh

Fingers crossed you get it running.....then the first thing to do is check if it's charging / overcharging. If that's the reason behind frying stuff you need to get that sorted next.

[Aequitas4]

Got a dyna 3000 ignition installed with curve 2 started up and ran great twice. My last sync still feels good. 3rd time wouldn't start at all. Fuel was good. Checked rear cylinder and had no spark. Pulled the seat and started checking all grounds and connections. Found the black/white main ground wire to the ignition module broken. Reattached soldered and she ran great this morning. Put about 40 miles on her with no issues!

Now back to the RR next.

[Designer]

GREAT news that you are Back On The Road Again.

Bet it felt good to have your Knees-In-the-Breeze. We need to keep it that way, eh?

To help with testing the R/R,....here's a page from the Factory Suzuki Shop Manual for you.

[hillsy]

First check you do with the charging is measure the voltage at the battery. Ideally you should get 13.5v at idle and 14.5v at 5k RPM. Those figures may vary slightly but the key here is if you are seeing over 16v at revs then you are in danger of frying stuff.

[Designer]

Now back to the RR next.

Seeing as how there is suspicion that overcharging might be what helped fry your last Ignitor,....it might be wise to perform the bench tests for the RR and stator so you can either rule them In/Out before performing a charging system test.

Don't want to risk blowing up your New Dynatek unit!!

[hillsy]

Check the charging voltage first Aequitas4 - that's the money shot.

If anything else in the system is not working that is where it will manifest itself.

Always start with the easiest tests and work your way further if needed.

[Aequitas4]

I'll put the meter on her tonight. Thanks guys.

[Herb]

Got a dyna 3000 ignition installed with curve 2 started up and ran great twice. My last sync still feels good. 3rd time wouldn't start at all. Fuel was good. Checked rear cylinder and had no spark. Pulled the seat and started checking all grounds and connections. Found the black/white main ground wire to the ignition module broken. Reattached soldered and she ran great this morning. Put about 40 miles on her with no issues!

Now back to the RR next.

I had the seat off doing a carb sync. Got done and replaced the tank and seat, fired it up, went to get on it and as soon as I sat down it quit. Got off checked things, fired right up. Sat on it and it quit. Pulled the seat and started checking and the B/W wire was broken inside the insulation, it would start and as soon as I wiggled the wire it would quit. Simple fix but a major issue.

[Aequitas4]

Just wanted to update this post. Checked the voltage while idle at and at 5k rpm. ran from just under 14v at idle and increased to around 14.6 at the peak. Also checked the R/R based on documentation and all is good.

I did find some more exposed wires that looked like they could have been intermittently touching on the fuel pump. The directional plug would have prevented me from plugging the two wires in backwards but they could have easily been touching together near the main harness as both conductors were fully exposed underneath some shoddy electrical tape I found. I am leaning towards this being the culprit for the two fuel pumps and failed flyback diodes.

After checking the charging voltage and the R/R I believe my incorrect side-of-the-road "jumpering" of the fuel pump relay sent 12v through the black/yellow wire directly to the ignition module causing the CDI failure.

She has been running pretty well since then and have been riding her a few miles to work daily and knocking out a few hundred miles each weekend. Thanks again for everyone's help on these items.

I'm still playing with the curve settings on the Dyna 3000 I have played with curves 3, 4, and 5 based on some other comments I have seen on other sites and didn't find much with the search function here. Any experience with which curve people prefer. Running what appear to be cobra drag pipes, homemade lollipops, k&N pod filters and factory pro jets to match.

[Designer]

Just wanted to update this post. Checked the voltage while idle at and at 5k rpm. ran from just under 14v at idle and increased to around 14.6 at the peak. Also checked the R/R based on documentation and all is good.

Not to upset you,...but,...the 5k reading sounds a bit low to me.

The Factory Manual says 14.0 -15.5 @ 5000 RPM. So you are within Spec, but at the low end. Just an FYI.

[Aequitas4]

Thanks. It bounced around quite a bit a my tachometer to measure rpm is very sketchy.... plastic amazon unit that I don't trust very much. I saw that it was mostly within the range but never reached 16v and called it good.

[Voodoo13]

I purchased my '97 Intruder 1400 over a year ago as a non-working bike with multiple air/fuel and wiring issues. With the help of a lot of the guys on this board I have been able to get it up and running. I appreciate all the help. As I continue to ride I'm constantly fighting small issues with wiring (probably due to the tweaker rats nest of wires the PO's considered a wiring harness). This has included everything from fuel pump relay, side stand relay, clutch switch etc.



I've seen a lot of the guys on here post that they have removed a lot of the extra/safety switches and I'm considering trying to mimic that while also removing the decomp solenoid and just activate it manually. Below I have included the original wiring diagram I have been working from, a copy of everything but the lighting system (just to simplify the view) and then the final copy of my proposed project solution that would eliminate all unnecessary relays switches solenoids etc. I am leaving all lighting intact and have only removed from the diagrams for clarity.

Original


Lighting removed for clarity


Proposed solution (the purple ovals are where I plan to tie wires in)


Just looking for peoples thoughts opinions or criticisms. Does this look like what some of the guys on this board have done? Does it look like it would work? I know I will have to manually turn the bike off if I crash but hopefully this will remove a lot of the unnecessary relays and wires I have bundled up above the battery and get me closer to having a "bike I can get running on the Cambodian border at night"

Did you delete the de comp or just cut it out of the picture?

I am setting up a semi new loom with an m unit and cant find any diagrams to follow.

This is really the closest I have gotten to a diagram to follow so THANK YOU!!!

[Aequitas4]

I never completely deleted the decomp. My goal was to remove all unnecessary components. The wiring images show 3 different things. The first is the original diagram, the second has all lighting removed for clarity, and the third still has all the lighting removed but shows all components removed that I felt were unnecessary.

In order to remove the electronics and solenoid for the decomp you will have to activate the decompression manually upon startup. I have not completed this part of the proposed setup yet.

I stumbled upon a super cheap Harley V-Rod and that has taken up most of my time. Hopefully getting back to the Intruder in the coming months. Most of the V-rod forums are dead anyways and not nearly as helpful (or entertaining ) as this one.

Let me know if I didn't answer what you were asking.

[sgtcall]

Did you delete the de comp or just cut it out of the picture?

I am setting up a semi new loom with an m unit and cant find any diagrams to follow.

This is really the closest I have gotten to a diagram to follow so THANK YOU!!!

Try going here to download.
Intruder Manuals and Information

[jdavidiet]

hello can someonetell me if this diagram does work