Safety Relay Removal / Reduction (minimalism)

[navigator]

hello can someonetell me if this diagram does work

sgtcall's link works, it will take you to manual and wiring diagram downloads.

[Herb]

I think he wants to know if this diagram will work.



I have done most of what he is looking at but I am not sure of the removal of the compression release timer. I have not removed the wiring for the clutch switch, just jumpered it in the headlight housing and I only jumpered the fuel pump relay at the connector taking the relay out of the system. I also jumpered the kickstand and neutral switches.

There was a post on here, along time ago, of a man that jumpered the compression release and said it started better without it and he didn't even talk about doing a manual release.

Personally, I like the compression release being automatic and don't want to change it.

[sgtcall]

Just wanted to throw in the reminder that once you remove the clutch switch you can't prime the carbs anymore. This can be an issue in the cold.

[Designer]

Just wanted to throw in the reminder that once you remove the clutch switch you can't prime the carbs anymore. This can be an issue in the cold.

Quite right. And if there is no Decomp, the issue gets more troublesome.

[hillsy v2]

Just wanted to throw in the reminder that once you remove the clutch switch you can't prime the carbs anymore. This can be an issue in the cold.

Just connect the fuel pump to switched power and it will always prime. Off the kill switch would be best.

[Herb]

If you take out the fuel pump relay, like he is proposing, the fuel pump works as soon as you turn on the key and primes the carbs. I took the relay out of the system and when I turn on the key the pump clicks until the carbs are full.

[jdavidiet]

i rewired my bke 1987 vs1400 intruder but now i have no spark

[hillsy v2]

i rewired my bke 1987 vs1400 intruder but now i have no spark

You might have missed some.

[jdavidiet]

i went over it thousands of times im just stumped

[hillsy v2]

i went over it thousands of times im just stumped

If the bike was working before you re-wired it - then you must have got something wrong or left something out that you still need.

Can you change it back to stock?

[Herb]

1987 Intruder?

Have you got the correct wiring diagram? The one we are looking at now is for a newer model that has the boost sensor. I know the ignitor is quite a bit different. The ignitor for the older model is no longer available.

There was a diagram that showed the changes and how to wire the newer ignitor into the older bikes but I can't find it now.

I am sorry that I didn't notice the issue earlier before you made the change.

Make sure you have power to the coils from the kill switch, then let us know what is happening. Meanwhile I will look for the older wiring diagram. I think that it was only the 87-89 models.

[jdavidiet]

yes i do have the diagram for the 1987 i believe and i do have 12.9 volts to coil but no spark i checked pickups i got pulse when motor turns over i have been having so much electrical problems i was happy to have found this diagram i do have 2 cdi boxs one extra and one on bike see just to give you a idea of my background i have been a tech for 20 yrs im certified in marine ,auto and diesel but not motorcycles but its al the same just different thank you for your help bike was running before yes but i decided to change handel bars and kept blowing fuses i thought it was something i might have done but some how starter relay shorted out so i figured it was because of that mess under seat and of course the handel bars i put on are ape hangers so i had to make electrical work but now no spark .

[Lechy]

Try this, remove a plug, stick it back in the cap. Turn on the ignition,pull the trip wire off the coil (orange is power). Touch the plug to ground, with a screwdriver short the open spade on the coil to ground. You should then get a spark at the plug. This will prove the coil, HT lead, plug cap and plug.

[Herb]

I had an issue with my 87 where everything worked correctly untill I sat on the seat and it would die. As soon as I got off the bike it would fire right up.
Turned out that the ground wire for the ignition box was broken inside the insulation right at the terminal and my 170lbs was enough to pull the thing apart and it would quit working.

Here is the diagram for the 87/88 ignitor.

[jdavidiet]

Thank you for all help i will hopefully figure it out I'm getting spark now just not strong enough

[Herb]

Is the spark weak on both cylinders?

I have seen issues with corrossion on the resistor that is inside the plug cap and others have had issues with the connection between the plug cap and the wire. Unscrew the cap from the wire and cut about 1/4 inch off the wire and clean the probe that goes in the wire, screw it back together and see what happens.

While you have the cap off pull it apart and clean the connections inside the cap including the ends of the resistor.

[Voodoo13]

Just wanted to throw in the reminder that once you remove the clutch switch you can't prime the carbs anymore. This can be an issue in the cold.

Just connect the fuel pump to switched power and it will always prime. Off the kill switch would be best.

Wish I had thought of this before! Thank you. Will try this when I take everything apart again next winter.

I hooked everything up with the m-unit blue and it clears away all relays EXCEPT I noticed the start function goes through the decompress relay so I kept that and the fuel pump. Should I hook up the wire from the clutch switch to the fuel pump to power for the prime function?

I was thinking of putting the decompress straight into the start button but will try that next winter.

[Herb]

Just wanted to throw in the reminder that once you remove the clutch switch you can't prime the carbs anymore. This can be an issue in the cold.

Just connect the fuel pump to switched power and it will always prime. Off the kill switch would be best.

Wish I had thought of this before! Thank you. Will try this when I take everything apart again next winter.

I hooked everything up with the m-unit blue and it clears away all relays EXCEPT I noticed the start function goes through the decompress relay so I kept that and the fuel pump. Should I hook up the wire from the clutch switch to the fuel pump to power for the prime function?

I was thinking of putting the decompress straight into the start button but will try that next winter.

If you have it hooked up to switched power it will self prime as soon as the power is turned on. I jumpered the relay socket and when it has sat for a couple of days I hear the pump clicking as soon as I turn on the key.

[FallenAngel]

Just connect the fuel pump to switched power and it will always prime. Off the kill switch would be best.

I need to run a jumper on my 87. I was going to install a toggle
That really is some good advice Safety First

[jdavidiet]

Hello Can someonehelp me please i Iiam in need of a cdi for a1987 suzuki 1400 intruder i know they are no longer available please any info would help