Wire gremlins

[Ntkfr0st0121]

Hey so here's the long fun of things, while out riding I lost all power outta no where, I mean everything couldn't even turn the key to get lights. The battery completely burned out, so replaced that along with the stator cus that was going and the regulator/rectifer. Finally can turn bike on.... Nope turn the key, dash cluster on, spedo and running lights not on. No tail light, unless I use the rear brake, try front brake no light up. The fuse in my led kit also blew out. So when I go to start the bike it turn and gives sparks, but no fuel, fuel pump does not engage, the wires leading to the pump are showing 12.89 volts, but it's not engaging the regulator, neither is the turn signal regulator engaging. Checked for ground faults, battery + to battery - 12.96 volts, battery + to ground on block 12.87 volts, starter solenoid 12.76 volts. What am I missing to check or test to figure out why it's not running all the sudden? What could have caused a surge to fry anything but not the wires? And do I have to worry about my cdi? Thanks for any help. It's for an 01 intruder 1400.

Oh kickstand safety has been bypassed, and clutch safety works, when I don't pull it and push the power button it's supposed to prime and does not, but when I pull the clutch and hit the power button it tries to kick and fire. And yes I have spark.

[Herb]

While they are probably related the only way to find this kind of problem is to choose 1 problem and T-shoot it. If you try to fix all of them at once you will end up chasing your tail.

I would check the fuel pump system first. While you say it is getting voltage to the pump, what does it have power under load? I have had systems not work because there was a bad connection on either the power or ground and it would not carry the current.

[Ntkfr0st0121]

How does one test it under load to check when the bike won't run cus of lack of fuel not getting in? Is there a way to get it off and test it off the bike?

[Herb]

How does one test it under load to check when the bike won't run cus of lack of fuel not getting in? Is there a way to get it off and test it off the bike?

You might have to pierce the power wire at the pump with a straight pin to get a reading. You might be able to tell by reading the back of the output wire on the relay.

You can also go to the fuel pump relay, pull the plug off of it, and jumper a hot wire to the fuel pump, I did this when the relay went bad on my bike and the pump runs as soon as I turn on the key.

You might check the grounds also because the ignitor box controls the fuel pump relay by providing a ground to it when the rear cylinder is running.

This might help.

[Lechy]

First off, get rid of the fuel pump relay, jumper the hot wire on the pump to an OW on one of the coils. Now you should be able to at least get the machine started. Next trace the 3 yellow wires from the alternator to RR find the plastic connector and check it out. It could look like this:


Then check all earthing points and wires black/white. Remove the earth cable from battery to frame and give it a very close inspection, stiff or swollen areas, broken cable strands.

[hillsy]

Lechy - he said he's replaced the stator and the RR so the connectors should be ok.

Agree with bypassing the fuel pump relay though - a cause of much frustration.

[Lechy]

Lechy - he said he's replaced the stator and the RR so the connectors should be ok.

Damned dexliksya, might come in handy for someone else though

[Ntkfr0st0121]

Okay so if I jump the hot wire to the o/w of the ignition coil, where would I put the second/ground wire or do I not need to worry cus it's now running on a different circuit? Last part of the question, isn't it bad to have the pump running like that, it won't cause spilling or flooding? Thanks for the info, I'm new to wires.

[Lechy]

The pump ground wire is common, the idea of the relay is an added safety feature which shuts the pump down when the engine isn't running. Taking power from the coils allows the pump to prime with the ignition as soon as it is turned on. In case of an accident the pump will shut down with the kill switch. The pump starts and stops automatically by means of a pressure trip switch in the pump itself,that's the click you hear when the pump is operating.

[Ntkfr0st0121]

So splice the hot wire in and do nothing with the ground?

[Lechy]

Yep, except don't splice in, by-pass the relay completely.

[Ntkfr0st0121]

Sounds good, I'll come straight off the pump later and report back.

Any ideas where to look for the running lights and speedo light issues?

[Lechy]

Check the wiring where it goes into the headlight bucket, a common place for shorts.

[navigator]

Like Lechy says, ground cable flexibility, ground to frame, battery connections.
But first....check all your fuses with a meter.

[Ntkfr0st0121]

So I directed power straight to the fuel pump, still nothing so I found that is gonna be the problem. Do any one you have a good place to get a pump that won't cost me damn near 300 for an oem one?

And the running lights problem solved. I'm an idiot, after seeing the fuses where good I went straight into checking wires when I should have checked the bulbs, they are all burnt out, so I'm gonna get new ones and see if that fixes the problem.

Thanks for all the advice and help thus far.

[Herb]

So I directed power straight to the fuel pump, still nothing so I found that is gonna be the problem. Do any one you have a good place to get a pump that won't cost me damn near 300 for an oem one?

And the running lights problem solved. I'm an idiot, after seeing the fuses where good I went straight into checking wires when I should have checked the bulbs, they are all burnt out, so I'm gonna get new ones and see if that fixes the problem.

Thanks for all the advice and help thus far.

Did you make sure the ground from the pump is good? A lot of the problems sound like a bad ground.

[Ntkfr0st0121]

Yes the wire is solid, I'm thinking I might just replace it, it's the original at 21 years old and 16k miles

[Lechy]

I got one of these from a local autostore:



It's from a small Mitsu or Toyota, cost about US$ 30, I cut off the mounting ears and it fit perfectly. 3 psi output pressure and ample volume. Got a bit of trapped air at first but once that cleared I have had no problems in 5 years. Made in Japan.
Do NOT buy Chinese crap, I made that mistake, the piece of shyte didn't last 5k miles.