Main jets too big?

[The1Chef]

Trying to help a newbie out. His bike, a 2005 s83 wasnt running without the choke and he has a warm only cylinder and a very very hot cylinder.
He removed airboxes and added pods has open pipes and ordered and installed a stage 3 sigma jet kit that came with 180 rear and 170 front jets ONLY. I dont think I have heard of anyone running jets that big ever. Those are too big right? also the kit includwd a drill bit and he has drilled the slides? I mentioned that I run on the 3rd clip on the needle but he told me he drilled and cant go back?

so we got it running without the choke. his cables were frayed and not in the housings. He is ordering new cables. I still believe he is only running one cylinder but at least its running without the choke and now his adjustments do something. Its backfiring or popping out the rear and smells like raw fuel. more evidence of 1 cylinder not running. My last instructions to him was to back off all cables so nothing is opening throttle bodies and then to adjust each carb seperately until the tab is almost going to move then tighten up the sync cable until it is just touching. As well he was at 3.5 turns front and back. I got him to go down to 1 turn out for the rear as I believe its so rich it wont fire and the front down to 2.5 turns out and gave him pointers on how to verify if that rear cylinder is actually running.

Anything else ? did I miss anything ?
so the question stands
is 180 rear and 170 front going to run?

[FallenAngel]

Depending on how long the bike takes to heat up
A Very hot cylinder suggests a lean condition and a warm cylinder may suggest a rich condition

For a lean condition first check for vacuum leaks I mention this because the bike wont run with out the choke on
And sense he just installed Pod filters I wont mention a clogged air filter that may be creating a rich condition

How was the bike running before he installed the new Air filters
And where and why did he drill the slides As I understand it the drill bit is for drilling out the air fuel mixture screw plug installed at the factory

[The1Chef]

The rear is not running and has a 180 main jet.
it was running before he installed pod filters and did the rejet.

pipes were already on the bike and it was popping and backfiring alot.

checking for spark now.

[FallenAngel]

The rear is not running and has a 180 main jet.
it was running before he installed pod filters and did the rejet.

pipes were already on the bike and it was popping and backfiring alot.

checking for spark now.

So did he drill the jet or did he drill the slide???
And how was it running before he rejected it? popping and backfiring???
Also check for a stuck slide it should move freely with your finger If it is stuck open this will cause an over rich condition and foul the plug and it wont spark

[The1Chef]

he drilled the slide

[FallenAngel]

Seems straight forward enough I didnt get the explanation of making the hole larger Im going to guess that it may aid in speeding the movement of the slide???
It seems to me that one of the things that could have been buggered is the float level when he installed the new jet or if this was an on going problem before the modification then it may have a hole in one of the floats
I would remove the carb and check the floats and fuel level.

But first start from the beginning
How was the bike running before the modifications

"pipes were already on the bike and it was popping and backfiring alot."
Then he modified the carbs and installed pod filters???

[The1Chef]

yes but he said it ran nice

[FallenAngel]

yes but he said it ran nice

Yes pipes were already on the bike and it was popping and backfiring alot
Then he modified the carbs and installed pod filters???

I think I would have got the bike running as perfect as possible by finding out why it was backfiring then modified it.
The modification was not the fix now its worse.

Any way check those floats in the #1 (Rear) cylinder

[FallenAngel]

yes but he said it ran nice

Yes pipes were already on the bike and it was popping and backfiring alot
Then he modified the carbs and installed pod filters???

I think I would have got the bike running as perfect as possible by finding out why it was backfiring then modified it.
The modification was not the fix now its worse.

Any way check those floats in the #1 (Rear) cylinder

Strike that I was thinking of another bike you just smell raw fuel it isnt spitting out of the til pipe
Clean and dry the plug or replace with new
Then check the carb air fuel mixture screw

[The1Chef]

yes you got it right.

he bought the bike rode it for a while after changing the stator and rectifier. It already had the exhaust but was popping and backfiring to the point of embarassing so he watched some videos did some reading and decided to fully uncork. So he ordered the kit in that video and mimicked the install off the video. Then it wouldnt run without the choke. He rrcorded a video of the problem and then I noticed he had frayed cables not in the housing at the connector by the tank. Got that fixed up and now it runs off the front only and the rear would every now and the pop and fart but stayed cold. Then front is crazy hot he says but also had a dark wet plug.

now ive got him checking for spark, loosening the sync cables, going down to 1.5 turns out.... Trying to get the rear lean enough to fire. He says the spark looked weak and intermittant so i got him to regap to factory but he had to go buy a gapper.
his.plugs were soaking wet.

[The1Chef]

He says that because he drilled the slide he cant go back down jet size? I dont know
its all by text. I will ask again
I was trying to get him to revertback and go from there

[FallenAngel]

He says that because he drilled the slide he cant go back down jet size? I dont know
its all by text. I will ask again
I was trying to get him to revertback and go from there

He can buy a new slide or 2 or even 4 for that mater Always good to have spare parts.
So lets work with what we have.
As this is a used bike and not knowing the condition of the engine I would do a compression test.
Intermittent week spark could be a bad battery
or Bad coils or even a short in the wiring some where or just a bad connection.
Bad spark plug wires even the wrong heat range of plug.
If he shimmed the needle valve he can remove the shim and move the needle seat closer to the plastic stop on the slide.
As mentioned many times in motorcycle forums
"Motorcycles are battery dependent"
Just for the sake of Keeping it simple
Make sure the battery is fully charge and holds a charge
when trying to start the bike use the Choke witch is actually a fuel enricher very sparingly or you may flood the engine.
I use just a little throttle while cranking, Open a little then close
Also there is a bolt size screw on the right side that can be used to adjust the idle on the rear carb make sure this screw is all the way out

[The1Chef]

all the way out?
not like 2.5 to 3.5 turns out?

[subin]

170 front an 180 rear do sound too big.
I found this setup in my old email, most likely from the old Intruder forum.

NY
Factory pro stage 3
Main jets: 155 front / 165 rear
pilot jets: 55 front / 57.5 rear
needles: 4th notch on both
mixture screws set for best idle
vance and hines classic II slip on exhaust.
stock spark plugs
k&n ru-1820 filters
front air box removed, rear 90% removed

I would try adjusting the throttle cable to spec, check both carbs and vacuum leaks, then sync the carbs.

[FallenAngel]

all the way out?
not like 2.5 to 3.5 turns out?

The Idle adjustment screw
The large thumb screw on the right side of the carb
Not the air fuel mixter screws

Just until l it starts then screw it in until it idles on its own

Use little blips with the throttle untill it starts
Dont choke it your getting plenty of fuel You dont want to introduce any more fuel if it fowling plugs
And keep the battery charged

[The1Chef]

170 front an 180 rear do sound too big.
I found this setup in my old email, most likely from the old Intruder forum.

NY
Factory pro stage 3
Main jets: 155 front / 165 rear
pilot jets: 55 front / 57.5 rear
needles: 4th notch on both
mixture screws set for best idle
vance and hines classic II slip on exhaust.
stock spark plugs
k&n ru-1820 filters
front air box removed, rear 90% removed

I would try adjusting the throttle cable to spec, check both carbs and vacuum leaks, then sync the carbs.

That is the same setup I was running.....

[The1Chef]

all the way out?
not like 2.5 to 3.5 turns out?

The Idle adjustment screw
The large thumb screw on the right side of the carb
Not the air fuel mixter screws

Just until l it starts then screw it in until it idles on its own

Use little blips with the throttle untill it starts
Dont choke it your getting plenty of fuel You dont want to introduce any more fuel if it fowling plugs
And keep the battery charged

Ya thats what I told him. He got it running with the idle screw. Tommorow he is going to tru and get it close so he can sync.

Thanks all

Yesterday though the idle screw did nothing because the cables were pulling too much

[FallenAngel]

Excellent
My 95 if it sits to long is a freaking BEAR to start
If I use the fuel enrichment I just fowl the plugs
I found that If I spin the idle screw out and just give a few blips with the throttle it will start
And then I spin the Idle screw in until it idles on its own


I was just going to post that it may not start with an open throttle and when it does fire give a little
Buttttt You guys have it under control

Please keep us up dated
Also your jets may be a bit fat so I would stay away from the choke

[Herb]

I put a stage 3 kin on my bike, I changed the jets, drilled the slides, put in the different main jet needle, put on pod filters, and put an open exhaust on it. The bike ran like shit in the low to mid-range, fuel mileage sucked, and it wasn't fun to ride.

I put the original needles back in, with the spacer for the needles under the clip, the original air boxes, and went back to the V&H Classic II's. The bike ran and still runs great. The power range that is the most used is great. Drilling out the slides actually improved the midrange response.

[The1Chef]

well....its all sorted out now. Sort of...

thete were multiple issue.
throttle cables frayed and not seated in splice connector.
broken spark plug wire
diaphram not seated in carb
sync cable pulling hard i one cylinder and nothing on the other.....

He is up and running now.
thanks for the replies